Chicken Around the World
Cooking Skills: Chicken 2
Chapter 6 · Chicken Around the World
Skill goal
Marinate, char and glaze chicken in the styles of the Caribbean, Portugal and Africa, Mexico and Japan.
Shopping list for this chapter
The basics
Every cuisine has a way to flavour chicken before the heat: a wet or dry marinade that carries salt, acid, spice and sugar into the surface. Jerk uses allspice, thyme and scotch bonnet; peri-peri uses chilli, garlic, lemon and paprika; tinga uses chipotle and tomato; yakitori uses soy and a sweet glaze. Cooking Skills: Sauces 2, chapter 7 covers marinades in general; here each one is a complete dish. Chicken in a marinade must stay in the fridge, and any marinade used on raw chicken must be boiled before it becomes a sauce.
Char and glaze matter as much as the marinade. Char comes from a hot grill, a barbecue or the top of the oven, and gives bitter-sweet edges and smoke. A glaze with sugar or honey goes on only in the last few minutes or it burns. For salsas to serve alongside see Cooking Skills: Sauces 2, chapter 5. The grilling basics are in Cooking Skills: Chicken 1, chapter 4.
The method
- Blend the marinade, coat the chicken, and chill it for 2 hours to overnight in a covered dish.
- Shake off the excess, especially sugary marinade, which burns.
- Cook to 75°C at the thickest point using the oven, grill or barbecue.
- Char at the end under a hot grill or on the barbecue for colour and smoke.
- Brush on the glaze in the last 3 to 5 minutes, then rest the chicken.
| Dish | Key flavours | Cooked | Time (approximate) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Jerk chicken | Allspice, thyme, scotch bonnet | Oven then grill | 1 hour 15 minutes |
| Peri-peri chicken | Chilli, lemon, garlic, paprika | Oven then grill | 50 minutes |
| Chicken tinga | Chipotle, tomato, onion | Simmered then shredded | 50 minutes |
| Yakitori-style skewers | Soy, mirin, ginger, honey | Grill or pan | 35 minutes |
Raw chicken, marinades and very hot chillies
Raw chicken: the safety rules: raw chicken often carries campylobacter and salmonella. Never wash it (the splashes spread bacteria around the kitchen), keep it covered on the bottom shelf of the fridge, use its own board, knife and tongs, wash your hands, boards and tools in hot soapy water afterwards, and never put cooked food back on a plate or board that held raw chicken. Use it by the use-by date, or freeze it on the day you buy it.Marinade that touched raw chicken: never serve a marinade that has had raw chicken in it as a sauce or dip. Boil it hard for at least 2 minutes first, or set aside a clean portion before the chicken goes in.
Scotch bonnet and very hot chillies: scotch bonnet and bird's-eye chillies are extremely hot. Wear gloves or wash your hands several times after handling them, never touch your eyes or face, and keep the seeds out for a milder dish. Blend the marinade with the lid on and the window open, as the fumes sting.
Is it cooked? Use a thermometer: chicken is safe when the thickest part reaches 75°C (or 70°C held for 2 minutes), the meat is white all the way through with no pink, and the juices run clear (general guidance, in line with current FSA advice). Push a probe thermometer into the thickest part without touching bone, and for a whole bird check the thickest part of the thigh. If in doubt, cook it longer.
Try it
Level 1 · Start here
Jerk chicken
Blend allspice, thyme, spring onions, ginger, garlic, soy sauce and scotch bonnet into a paste and rub it into scored chicken. Roast hot then char under the grill. Use one chilli (deseeded) for a medium heat, or half for mild. Serve with rice and peas.
Ingredients (4 portions)
- 8 bone-in chicken thighs or drumsticks
- 4 spring onions, chopped
- 3 garlic cloves
- 3 cm fresh ginger, peeled
- 1 tbsp ground allspice
- 1 tbsp fresh thyme leaves
- 2 tbsp soy sauce
- 1 tbsp brown sugar
- 1 tbsp lime juice
- 1 scotch bonnet chilli, deseeded
- 2 tbsp rapeseed oil
- Blend everything except the chicken into a paste. Slash the chicken skin and rub the paste in. Cover and chill for 2 hours to overnight.
- Heat the oven to 200°C (180°C fan, gas 6). Roast on a rack over a tray for 40 to 45 minutes until the thickest part is 75°C or more.
- Finish under a hot grill for 3 to 5 minutes until charred at the edges. Rest for 5 minutes and serve.
Raw chicken, scotch bonnet and a hot grill
Raw chicken: the safety rules: raw chicken often carries campylobacter and salmonella. Never wash it (the splashes spread bacteria around the kitchen), keep it covered on the bottom shelf of the fridge, use its own board, knife and tongs, wash your hands, boards and tools in hot soapy water afterwards, and never put cooked food back on a plate or board that held raw chicken. Use it by the use-by date, or freeze it on the day you buy it.Scotch bonnet and very hot chillies: scotch bonnet and bird's-eye chillies are extremely hot. Wear gloves or wash your hands several times after handling them, never touch your eyes or face, and keep the seeds out for a milder dish. Blend the marinade with the lid on and the window open, as the fumes sting.
Hot grill: a grill is extremely hot and food under it burns in a minute. Stay at the cooker, use oven gloves and keep the grill pan clear of loose items. Cheese bubbles and drips, so use a tray.
Is it cooked? Use a thermometer: chicken is safe when the thickest part reaches 75°C (or 70°C held for 2 minutes), the meat is white all the way through with no pink, and the juices run clear (general guidance, in line with current FSA advice). Push a probe thermometer into the thickest part without touching bone, and for a whole bird check the thickest part of the thigh. If in doubt, cook it longer.
Level 2 · Portuguese
Peri-peri chicken
Peri-peri is a Portuguese-African mix of red chilli, garlic, lemon, paprika and oil. Blend it, keep a portion aside for basting, and marinate the chicken in the rest. A spatchcocked chicken (Cooking Skills: Chicken 2, chapter 1) is ideal; thighs work too.
Ingredients (4 portions)
- 8 bone-in chicken thighs
- 3 red chillies, deseeded
- 4 garlic cloves
- 2 lemons, juice
- 2 tsp smoked paprika
- 1 tsp dried oregano
- 3 tbsp olive oil
- 1 tbsp red wine vinegar
- 1 tsp flaked sea salt
- Blend the marinade ingredients until smooth. Set aside a third in a clean bowl for basting. Coat the chicken in the rest and chill for 2 hours to overnight.
- Roast at 200°C (180°C fan, gas 6) for 35 to 40 minutes, brushing with the clean sauce in the last 10 minutes, until the thickest part reads 75°C.
- Char under a hot grill for 3 minutes and serve with the rest of the clean sauce on the side.
Raw chicken, chilli and a hot oven
Raw chicken: the safety rules: raw chicken often carries campylobacter and salmonella. Never wash it (the splashes spread bacteria around the kitchen), keep it covered on the bottom shelf of the fridge, use its own board, knife and tongs, wash your hands, boards and tools in hot soapy water afterwards, and never put cooked food back on a plate or board that held raw chicken. Use it by the use-by date, or freeze it on the day you buy it.Marinade that touched raw chicken: never serve a marinade that has had raw chicken in it as a sauce or dip. Boil it hard for at least 2 minutes first, or set aside a clean portion before the chicken goes in.
Chilli and spices: chilli can sting skin and eyes, so wash your hands well after chopping it and don't touch your face. Add heat in small steps and keep portions for children mild.
Is it cooked? Use a thermometer: chicken is safe when the thickest part reaches 75°C (or 70°C held for 2 minutes), the meat is white all the way through with no pink, and the juices run clear (general guidance, in line with current FSA advice). Push a probe thermometer into the thickest part without touching bone, and for a whole bird check the thickest part of the thigh. If in doubt, cook it longer.
Level 2 · Mexican
Chicken tinga
Tinga is shredded chicken in a sauce of tomato, onion and chipotle. Poach the chicken, shred it, then simmer it in the sauce. Serve in tortillas with avocado, soured cream and lime. Chipotle paste is smoky and hot; add a little at a time.
Ingredients (4 portions)
- 600 g boneless chicken thighs
- 500 ml chicken stock, unsalted
- 2 tbsp rapeseed oil
- 1 onion, sliced
- 3 garlic cloves
- 400 g tin of chopped tomatoes
- 1 tbsp chipotle paste
- 1 tsp dried oregano
- 1 tsp ground cumin
- 8 small tortillas
- Simmer the chicken in the stock for 15 to 20 minutes until 75°C or more in the centre. Lift it out, cool slightly, and shred.
- Soften the onion in the oil for 8 minutes with the garlic. Add the tomatoes, chipotle, oregano, cumin and a ladle of the poaching stock, and simmer for 10 minutes.
- Stir in the shredded chicken, cook for 5 minutes, and serve in warmed tortillas.
Raw chicken, chipotle and a hot pan
Raw chicken: the safety rules: raw chicken often carries campylobacter and salmonella. Never wash it (the splashes spread bacteria around the kitchen), keep it covered on the bottom shelf of the fridge, use its own board, knife and tongs, wash your hands, boards and tools in hot soapy water afterwards, and never put cooked food back on a plate or board that held raw chicken. Use it by the use-by date, or freeze it on the day you buy it.Chilli and spices: chilli can sting skin and eyes, so wash your hands well after chopping it and don't touch your face. Add heat in small steps and keep portions for children mild.
Poaching is gentle, not raw: poaching uses water at a bare simmer (about 80 to 90°C), not a boil. The chicken must still reach 75°C in the thickest part, so check with a thermometer, not just the clock. Keep the lid on, never leave a pan of hot liquid unattended, and lift the chicken out with a slotted spoon, not by pouring.
Is it cooked? Use a thermometer: chicken is safe when the thickest part reaches 75°C (or 70°C held for 2 minutes), the meat is white all the way through with no pink, and the juices run clear (general guidance, in line with current FSA advice). Push a probe thermometer into the thickest part without touching bone, and for a whole bird check the thickest part of the thigh. If in doubt, cook it longer.
Level 3 · Japanese
Yakitori-style skewers
Small pieces of chicken thigh on skewers, grilled over a high heat and brushed with a sweet soy glaze (tare). Mirin, the usual sweet seasoning, contains a little alcohol, so this version uses honey, sugar and rice vinegar instead. Serve with rice and cucumber.
Ingredients (4 portions)
- 700 g boneless chicken thighs, in 3 cm pieces
- 6 tbsp soy sauce
- 3 tbsp honey
- 1 tbsp rice vinegar
- 1 tbsp caster sugar
- 2 tsp grated fresh ginger
- 1 garlic clove, grated
- 8 wooden skewers
- Simmer the soy, honey, vinegar, sugar, ginger and garlic for 5 minutes until syrupy. Set half aside as a clean glaze.
- Soak the skewers for 30 minutes, thread the chicken, and marinate in the other half of the sauce for 30 minutes.
- Grill or pan-fry for 10 to 12 minutes, turning often, brushing with the clean glaze for the last 3 minutes, until the centre is 75°C or more.
Raw chicken, skewers and sugary glazes
Raw chicken: the safety rules: raw chicken often carries campylobacter and salmonella. Never wash it (the splashes spread bacteria around the kitchen), keep it covered on the bottom shelf of the fridge, use its own board, knife and tongs, wash your hands, boards and tools in hot soapy water afterwards, and never put cooked food back on a plate or board that held raw chicken. Use it by the use-by date, or freeze it on the day you buy it.Skewers and the grill: metal skewers get very hot and wooden ones burn, so soak wooden skewers in water for 30 minutes first. Turn them with tongs, keep the grill pan and tray steady, and check the thickest piece of chicken is 75°C before serving.
Hot sugary glazes: glazes with sugar or honey burn quickly and stick like hot toffee. Brush them on in the last few minutes, watch the pan, and don't taste a hot glaze straight from the spoon.
No alcohol: this book uses no beer, wine or brandy. Stock, vinegar, mustard and tomato give the same depth, so the dish is fine for children and anyone avoiding alcohol.
Experiments
Experiment
Marinade 2 hours or overnight
Depth.
- Marinate two batches of the same chicken, one for 2 hours and one overnight.
Look for: Overnight chicken is deeper in flavour all through; 2 hours flavours only the surface.
Experiment
Charred or not
Smoke.
- Cook two portions, one finished under the grill and one not.
Look for: The charred portion has smoky, slightly bitter edges; the other is paler and milder.
Experiment
Chilli heat
Spice.
- Make jerk paste with half a chilli and with a whole one.
Look for: A whole scotch bonnet is much hotter and fruitier; half is warm and lets the allspice show.
Experiment
Sauce brushed on early or late
Burning.
- Brush the glaze on at the start for one skewer and at the end for another.
Look for: Early glaze blackens and tastes bitter; late glaze is glossy and sweet.
Tasting notes
| What I tried | Method or amount | What I saw | What I thought | Will I do it again? |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jerk chicken | ||||
| Peri-peri chicken | ||||
| Chicken tinga | ||||
| Yakitori-style skewers | ||||
| Marinade 2 hours or overnight | ||||
| Charred or not | ||||
| Chilli heat | ||||
| Sauce brushed on early or late |
Troubleshooting
| Problem | Likely cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Burnt, bitter outside | Sugary marinade on too long | Shake off excess; glaze in the last 5 minutes |
| Raw centre | Pieces too thick or heat too fierce | Cook to 75°C and use a lower heat to finish |
| Dry skewers | Breast or overcooked | Use thighs and cook until just done |
| Marinade too hot | Seeds left in chillies | Deseed and add the chilli in steps |
| Skewers burnt | Not soaked | Soak for 30 minutes first |
| Tinga too thin | Not reduced | Simmer uncovered until thick |
Raw marinade, chillies and leftovers
Marinade that touched raw chicken: never serve a marinade that has had raw chicken in it as a sauce or dip. Boil it hard for at least 2 minutes first, or set aside a clean portion before the chicken goes in.Scotch bonnet and very hot chillies: scotch bonnet and bird's-eye chillies are extremely hot. Wear gloves or wash your hands several times after handling them, never touch your eyes or face, and keep the seeds out for a milder dish. Blend the marinade with the lid on and the window open, as the fumes sting.
Leftover chicken: cool cooked chicken quickly (within about 1 to 2 hours), cover and refrigerate, and eat within 2 days. Reheat only once, until steaming hot all the way through. Never leave chicken on the table for more than 2 hours. Cooked chicken can be frozen for up to about 3 months.
Checkpoint: can you do this now?
- I can blend and use a spice marinade.
- I can char chicken without burning it.
- I time a glaze for the end.
- I never serve a raw marinade as a sauce.
- I check chicken is past 75°C.
Next chapter
Cooking Skills: Chicken 2, chapter 7 is Livers, Skin and Giblets: using the whole bird and its offcuts.