Chicken Around the Mediterranean
Cooking Skills: Chicken 2
Chapter 5 · Chicken Around the Mediterranean
Skill goal
Cook slow, aromatic chicken dishes in which herbs, lemon, paprika and spice build the sauce.
Shopping list for this chapter
The basics
The Mediterranean kitchen cooks chicken with the bone in, slowly, in a sauce made from what grows nearby: lemon and oregano in Greece, tomato and mushroom in Italy, paprika and onion in Hungary, and sweet spice and dried fruit in Morocco. The method is shared: brown the skin, soften the aromatics, add liquid, and cook gently until the meat is tender and the sauce is reduced. Cooking Skills: Chicken 1, chapter 6 teaches the stew method; these four dishes each change the flavour, not the technique.
Use thighs and drumsticks. They have more fat and connective tissue than breast, so they stay moist through a long cook. Taste at the end and adjust: lemon for freshness, a pinch of sugar if the tomato is sharp, salt last. There is no wine in any of these; stock, lemon and a little vinegar provide the depth that wine usually does. Serve with rice (Cooking Skills: Rice 1, chapter 3) or crusty bread.
The method
- Brown the chicken skin-side down over a medium heat for 6 to 8 minutes until golden, then set it aside.
- Soften the aromatics in the fat that's left: onion first, then garlic, herbs and spices for the last minute.
- Add the liquid (stock, tomatoes or lemon juice) and scrape up the browned bits.
- Return the chicken, cover and cook gently for 40 to 50 minutes until tender and past 75°C.
- Finish the sauce: uncover and reduce, then add fresh herbs, lemon or soured cream.
| Dish | Flavour | Cooking liquid | Time (approximate) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Greek lemon chicken | Lemon, oregano, garlic | Lemon juice and stock | 1 hour 15 minutes |
| Chicken cacciatore | Tomato, mushroom, herbs | Tomato and stock | 1 hour |
| Chicken paprikash | Sweet paprika, onion, cream | Stock and soured cream | 1 hour |
| Moroccan tagine | Cumin, ginger, cinnamon, apricot | Stock and onion juices | 1 hour 15 minutes |
Raw chicken, hot pots and spices
Raw chicken: the safety rules: raw chicken often carries campylobacter and salmonella. Never wash it (the splashes spread bacteria around the kitchen), keep it covered on the bottom shelf of the fridge, use its own board, knife and tongs, wash your hands, boards and tools in hot soapy water afterwards, and never put cooked food back on a plate or board that held raw chicken. Use it by the use-by date, or freeze it on the day you buy it.Hot casserole: a covered dish or pot of casserole is heavy, with scalding steam under the lid. Use dry oven gloves, lift the lid away from you, rest the dish on a heatproof surface, and use a ladle to serve.
Paprika and spice in hot oil: paprika burns in seconds in hot oil and turns bitter. Take the pan off the heat before you stir it in, then return it, and add liquid straight away.
Is it cooked? Use a thermometer: chicken is safe when the thickest part reaches 75°C (or 70°C held for 2 minutes), the meat is white all the way through with no pink, and the juices run clear (general guidance, in line with current FSA advice). Push a probe thermometer into the thickest part without touching bone, and for a whole bird check the thickest part of the thigh. If in doubt, cook it longer.
Try it
Level 1 · Start here
A Greek lemon chicken with potatoes
One tray, almost no work. Chicken and potato wedges roast in olive oil, lemon juice, garlic and oregano, and the potatoes soak up the juices. The result is golden on top and tender underneath. Serve with a green salad.
Ingredients (4 portions)
- 8 bone-in chicken thighs or drumsticks
- 800 g waxy potatoes, cut into wedges
- 4 tbsp olive oil
- 3 lemons, juice
- 4 garlic cloves, crushed
- 2 tsp dried oregano
- 300 ml chicken stock, unsalted
- Heat the oven to 200°C (180°C fan, gas 6). Toss the chicken, potatoes, oil, lemon juice, garlic and oregano in a large roasting tin with the stock, skin-side up. Season.
- Roast for 1 hour to 1 hour 10 minutes, turning the potatoes once, until the chicken is golden and reads 75°C or more.
- Rest for 5 minutes, spoon over the pan juices, and serve.
Raw chicken and a hot oven
Raw chicken: the safety rules: raw chicken often carries campylobacter and salmonella. Never wash it (the splashes spread bacteria around the kitchen), keep it covered on the bottom shelf of the fridge, use its own board, knife and tongs, wash your hands, boards and tools in hot soapy water afterwards, and never put cooked food back on a plate or board that held raw chicken. Use it by the use-by date, or freeze it on the day you buy it.Hot oven and hot trays: ovens, trays and tins are hot enough to burn badly. Use dry oven gloves (a damp cloth conducts heat), pull the shelf out a little before lifting a tray, put hot things on a heatproof surface and keep children away.
Is it cooked? Use a thermometer: chicken is safe when the thickest part reaches 75°C (or 70°C held for 2 minutes), the meat is white all the way through with no pink, and the juices run clear (general guidance, in line with current FSA advice). Push a probe thermometer into the thickest part without touching bone, and for a whole bird check the thickest part of the thigh. If in doubt, cook it longer.
Resting: resting lets the juices settle, but it is not a safety step: the chicken must already have reached its safe temperature. Rest it on a warm plate, loosely covered with foil, and keep it out of the 'danger zone' for no more than about 30 minutes before carving and serving.
Level 2 · Italian
A chicken cacciatore (no wine)
Cacciatore means hunter's style. Brown the chicken, soften onion, pepper and mushrooms, add tomatoes and stock, and simmer until tender. Traditionally made with wine; stock and a splash of vinegar give a similar depth. Serve with pasta or crusty bread.
Ingredients (4 portions)
- 3 tbsp olive oil
- 8 bone-in chicken thighs
- 1 onion, sliced
- 1 red pepper, sliced
- 200 g mushrooms, quartered
- 3 garlic cloves, sliced
- 1 tbsp tomato purée
- 400 g tin of chopped tomatoes
- 200 ml chicken stock, unsalted
- 1 tbsp red wine vinegar
- 1 tsp dried oregano
- 1 handful fresh parsley
- Brown the chicken in the oil over a medium heat for 6 to 8 minutes, skin-side down first. Set aside.
- In the same pan soften the onion, pepper and mushrooms for 8 minutes. Add the garlic and purée for 1 minute, then the tomatoes, stock, vinegar and oregano.
- Return the chicken, cover and simmer gently for 35 to 40 minutes until tender and past 75°C. Reduce the sauce if thin, and add parsley.
Raw chicken and a hot pot
Raw chicken: the safety rules: raw chicken often carries campylobacter and salmonella. Never wash it (the splashes spread bacteria around the kitchen), keep it covered on the bottom shelf of the fridge, use its own board, knife and tongs, wash your hands, boards and tools in hot soapy water afterwards, and never put cooked food back on a plate or board that held raw chicken. Use it by the use-by date, or freeze it on the day you buy it.Hot casserole: a covered dish or pot of casserole is heavy, with scalding steam under the lid. Use dry oven gloves, lift the lid away from you, rest the dish on a heatproof surface, and use a ladle to serve.
No alcohol: this book uses no beer, wine or brandy. Stock, vinegar, mustard and tomato give the same depth, so the dish is fine for children and anyone avoiding alcohol.
Is it cooked? Use a thermometer: chicken is safe when the thickest part reaches 75°C (or 70°C held for 2 minutes), the meat is white all the way through with no pink, and the juices run clear (general guidance, in line with current FSA advice). Push a probe thermometer into the thickest part without touching bone, and for a whole bird check the thickest part of the thigh. If in doubt, cook it longer.
Level 2 · Hungarian
A Hungarian-style chicken paprikash
Paprikash is chicken cooked in a sauce of sweet paprika, soft onions and soured cream. The trick is to take the pan off the heat before you add the paprika, because it turns bitter in seconds. Serve with rice, buttered noodles or dumplings.
Ingredients (4 portions)
- 2 tbsp rapeseed oil
- 8 bone-in chicken thighs
- 2 onions, finely chopped
- 2 tbsp sweet paprika
- 1 red pepper, sliced
- 1 tomato, chopped
- 350 ml chicken stock, unsalted
- 150 ml soured cream
- 1 tbsp plain flour
- Brown the chicken for 6 to 8 minutes and set aside. Cook the onions in the same pan for 10 minutes until soft and golden.
- Take the pan off the heat, stir in the paprika, then add the pepper, tomato and stock. Return the chicken, cover, and simmer for 35 to 40 minutes until past 75°C.
- Whisk the flour into the soured cream, stir it into the sauce off the heat, and warm gently without boiling. Serve.
Raw chicken, paprika and dairy
Raw chicken: the safety rules: raw chicken often carries campylobacter and salmonella. Never wash it (the splashes spread bacteria around the kitchen), keep it covered on the bottom shelf of the fridge, use its own board, knife and tongs, wash your hands, boards and tools in hot soapy water afterwards, and never put cooked food back on a plate or board that held raw chicken. Use it by the use-by date, or freeze it on the day you buy it.Paprika and spice in hot oil: paprika burns in seconds in hot oil and turns bitter. Take the pan off the heat before you stir it in, then return it, and add liquid straight away.
Hot milk and cream: milk and cream boil over in seconds and burn worse than water. Keep the heat low, stay at the pan, and add dairy at the end. Never boil a soup once it has cream, or it may split.
Is it cooked? Use a thermometer: chicken is safe when the thickest part reaches 75°C (or 70°C held for 2 minutes), the meat is white all the way through with no pink, and the juices run clear (general guidance, in line with current FSA advice). Push a probe thermometer into the thickest part without touching bone, and for a whole bird check the thickest part of the thigh. If in doubt, cook it longer.
Level 3 · Moroccan
A Moroccan chicken tagine with apricots
A tagine is both the pot and the stew. A heavy casserole works well. Cumin, ginger, cinnamon and turmeric flavour the chicken, onions cook down to a thick sauce, and dried apricots and almonds add sweetness and crunch. Serve with couscous.
Ingredients (4 portions)
- 3 tbsp olive oil
- 8 bone-in chicken thighs
- 2 onions, sliced
- 3 garlic cloves, grated
- 1 tsp ground cumin
- 1 tsp ground ginger
- 1 tsp ground cinnamon
- ½ tsp turmeric
- 400 ml chicken stock, unsalted
- 100 g dried apricots, halved
- 50 g green olives
- 30 g flaked almonds, toasted
- 2 tbsp chopped coriander
- Brown the chicken in the oil, set aside, and cook the onions for 12 minutes until soft. Add the garlic and spices for 1 minute.
- Add the stock, return the chicken, cover, and cook gently for 40 minutes. Add the apricots and olives and cook for 15 minutes more, until past 75°C.
- Scatter with almonds and coriander. Serve with couscous.
Raw chicken, nuts and spices
Raw chicken: the safety rules: raw chicken often carries campylobacter and salmonella. Never wash it (the splashes spread bacteria around the kitchen), keep it covered on the bottom shelf of the fridge, use its own board, knife and tongs, wash your hands, boards and tools in hot soapy water afterwards, and never put cooked food back on a plate or board that held raw chicken. Use it by the use-by date, or freeze it on the day you buy it.Hot casserole: a covered dish or pot of casserole is heavy, with scalding steam under the lid. Use dry oven gloves, lift the lid away from you, rest the dish on a heatproof surface, and use a ladle to serve.
Peanuts, cashews and nut allergies: peanuts and cashews are major allergens and can cause severe reactions. Keep them off the table for anyone who is allergic, check sauce labels (oyster sauce, hoisin, chilli oil), and use separate pans and spoons. Whole nuts are a choking risk for small children.
Is it cooked? Use a thermometer: chicken is safe when the thickest part reaches 75°C (or 70°C held for 2 minutes), the meat is white all the way through with no pink, and the juices run clear (general guidance, in line with current FSA advice). Push a probe thermometer into the thickest part without touching bone, and for a whole bird check the thickest part of the thigh. If in doubt, cook it longer.
Experiments
Experiment
Lemon early or late
Brightness.
- Cook one lemon chicken with the juice added at the start and one with the juice added at the end.
Look for: Early lemon mellows and flavours the potatoes; late lemon is sharper and fresher.
Experiment
Paprika fried or stirred in
Colour and bitterness.
- Fry the paprika in hot oil for 30 seconds in one pot, and stir it in off the heat in another.
Look for: Fried paprika turns bitter and brown; off-heat paprika stays sweet and red.
Experiment
Apricots or none
Sweetness.
- Cook two tagines, one with apricots and one without.
Look for: The apricots add sweetness and thicken the sauce; without them the dish is savoury and plainer.
Experiment
Lid on or off
Sauce texture.
- Finish one casserole with the lid on and one with it off for the last 20 minutes.
Look for: Lid on keeps the chicken moist and the sauce thin; lid off reduces and thickens the sauce.
Tasting notes
| What I tried | Method or amount | What I saw | What I thought | Will I do it again? |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Greek lemon chicken | ||||
| Chicken cacciatore | ||||
| Chicken paprikash | ||||
| Moroccan chicken tagine | ||||
| Lemon early or late | ||||
| Paprika fried or stirred in | ||||
| Apricots or none | ||||
| Lid on or off |
Troubleshooting
| Problem | Likely cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Bitter paprika sauce | Paprika burnt | Take the pan off the heat before stirring it in |
| Curdled soured cream | Boiled after adding | Add off the heat and warm gently |
| Thin, watery sauce | Lid on throughout | Uncover and simmer to reduce |
| Pale chicken skin | Pan too cool or crowded | Brown in batches over a medium heat |
| Sauce too sharp | Tomato or lemon acidity | Add a pinch of sugar and a little more cooking |
| Dry chicken | Breast or too hot | Use thighs and keep to a gentle simmer |
Hot pot, nuts and leftovers
Hot casserole: a covered dish or pot of casserole is heavy, with scalding steam under the lid. Use dry oven gloves, lift the lid away from you, rest the dish on a heatproof surface, and use a ladle to serve.Peanuts, cashews and nut allergies: peanuts and cashews are major allergens and can cause severe reactions. Keep them off the table for anyone who is allergic, check sauce labels (oyster sauce, hoisin, chilli oil), and use separate pans and spoons. Whole nuts are a choking risk for small children.
Leftover chicken: cool cooked chicken quickly (within about 1 to 2 hours), cover and refrigerate, and eat within 2 days. Reheat only once, until steaming hot all the way through. Never leave chicken on the table for more than 2 hours. Cooked chicken can be frozen for up to about 3 months.
Checkpoint: can you do this now?
- I can brown chicken without burning it.
- I can build a sauce from aromatics and stock.
- I can add paprika off the heat.
- I can finish a sauce with cream without curdling it.
- I check chicken is past 75°C.
Next chapter
Cooking Skills: Chicken 2, chapter 6 is Chicken Around the World: marinades, heat and smoke from other traditions.