Hummus, Dips and Falafel
Cooking Skills: Pulses and Beans 1
Chapter 4 · Hummus, Dips and Falafel
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The basics
Hummus is chickpeas, tahini (sesame paste), lemon, garlic and salt, blended until it is pale and silky. The secret is softness: cook the chickpeas until they are very soft, even slightly mushy (add a pinch of bicarbonate of soda to the cooking water, or use tinned and simmer them for 15 minutes), and blend with a few ice-cold water splashes for 2 to 3 minutes, which makes it light and creamy. The same method works with any soft cooked bean.
Falafel are crisp herb and chickpea patties from the Middle East. They are made from soaked but uncooked chickpeas, ground coarsely with herbs and spices, which gives a fluffy centre; tinned chickpeas are already cooked and make a paste. Falafel are usually deep-fried, but baking at 200°C gives a lighter result with little oil. Cooking Skills: Pulses and Beans 1, chapter 1 shows how to cook chickpeas from dried, and chapter 2 covers soaking.
The method
- Cook the chickpeas very soft, and drain them, keeping a little liquid.
- Blend the tahini and lemon first to a pale paste, before adding the chickpeas.
- Add ice-cold water a spoonful at a time while blending, for a light, smooth texture.
- Season boldly with salt and lemon, because a dip tastes blander cold.
- For falafel, soak (don't cook) the chickpeas, grind coarsely, chill the mixture, and bake until golden and crisp.
| Dip or snack | Pulse | Flavour | Time (approximate) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Classic hummus | Chickpeas | Tahini, lemon, garlic | 15 minutes |
| White bean dip | Cannellini beans | Lemon, rosemary, olive oil | 10 minutes |
| Baked falafel | Soaked dried chickpeas | Herbs, cumin, coriander | 45 minutes |
| Beetroot hummus | Chickpeas, beetroot | Tahini, lemon, cumin | 15 minutes |
Raw chickpeas for falafel: falafel is made from soaked but uncooked chickpeas, never from tinned, which turns to paste. They are safe to eat only once the falafel is baked or fried all the way through, so cook until golden and hot in the centre, and don't taste the raw mixture.
Blenders and food processors: the blade of a food processor is extremely sharp. Unplug it before you take the bowl apart, never put your fingers near the blade, and use a spatula to scrape, not a spoon while it runs.
Staining: beetroot stains hands, boards and clothes. Wear gloves or rub your hands with lemon juice, use a plastic board, and wash up at once.
Try it
Classic hummus
Blend the tahini and lemon first until pale, then add the chickpeas, garlic and ice water. Simmering tinned chickpeas for 15 minutes makes them very soft, and leaves a creamier result. Serve with olive oil and paprika.
Ingredients (6 portions)
- 2 tins of chickpeas (400 g each), drained and rinsed
- 1 pinch bicarbonate of soda
- 4 tbsp tahini
- 1 lemon, juice
- 1 garlic clove
- ½ tsp flaked sea salt
- 4 tbsp ice-cold water
- 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
- 1 pinch smoked paprika
- Simmer the chickpeas with the bicarbonate of soda in water for 15 minutes until very soft. Drain, keeping 4 tbsp of the liquid.
- Blend the tahini and lemon juice for 1 minute until pale, then add the garlic, salt and chickpeas and blend until smooth.
- With the motor running add the ice-cold water a spoonful at a time and blend for 2 to 3 minutes. Taste, then top with oil and paprika.
Blenders and food processors: the blade of a food processor is extremely sharp. Unplug it before you take the bowl apart, never put your fingers near the blade, and use a spatula to scrape, not a spoon while it runs.
Tinned pulses: tinned pulses are cooked and ready to eat once drained and rinsed, which also washes off much of the salt. Check the use-by date, never use tins that are bulging or leaking, and keep opened tins in a covered container in the fridge for up to 2 days rather than in the tin.
Allergens in pulses: soya, peanuts and lupin are legumes and major allergens, and sesame (in tahini) is one too. Check labels on tinned pulses, flours and sauces, tell guests what is in a dish, and use separate pans and spoons if someone is allergic. Celery is in many stock cubes.
A white bean and lemon dip
A quick dip for a sesame-free table. Cannellini beans are creamier than chickpeas and need no peeling. Rosemary gives it a Tuscan taste. Serve with raw vegetables or warm bread.
Ingredients (4 portions)
- 400 g tin of cannellini beans, drained and rinsed
- 1 lemon, zest and juice
- 1 small garlic clove
- 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
- 1 tsp chopped fresh rosemary
- 2 tbsp cold water
- Put the beans, lemon zest and juice, garlic, 2 tbsp oil and the rosemary in a food processor.
- Blend until smooth, adding the cold water to loosen.
- Season with salt and pepper, spoon into a bowl and drizzle with the remaining oil.
Tinned pulses: tinned pulses are cooked and ready to eat once drained and rinsed, which also washes off much of the salt. Check the use-by date, never use tins that are bulging or leaking, and keep opened tins in a covered container in the fridge for up to 2 days rather than in the tin.
Allergens in pulses: soya, peanuts and lupin are legumes and major allergens, and sesame (in tahini) is one too. Check labels on tinned pulses, flours and sauces, tell guests what is in a dish, and use separate pans and spoons if someone is allergic. Celery is in many stock cubes.
Beetroot hummus
Cooked beetroot turns hummus a startling magenta and adds earthy sweetness. Use plain cooked beetroot (not pickled in vinegar) and keep the other ingredients the same, plus a pinch of cumin. Wear gloves, because it stains.
Ingredients (6 portions)
- 400 g tin of chickpeas, drained and rinsed
- 150 g cooked beetroot, roughly chopped
- 3 tbsp tahini
- 1 lemon, juice
- 1 small garlic clove
- ½ tsp ground cumin
- 3 tbsp ice-cold water
- 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
- Blend the tahini and lemon juice until pale, then add the chickpeas, beetroot, garlic, cumin and salt.
- Blend smooth, adding the ice-cold water gradually.
- Taste, adjust the lemon and salt, and drizzle with the olive oil.
Blenders and food processors: the blade of a food processor is extremely sharp. Unplug it before you take the bowl apart, never put your fingers near the blade, and use a spatula to scrape, not a spoon while it runs.
Staining: beetroot stains hands, boards and clothes. Wear gloves or rub your hands with lemon juice, use a plastic board, and wash up at once.
Tinned pulses: tinned pulses are cooked and ready to eat once drained and rinsed, which also washes off much of the salt. Check the use-by date, never use tins that are bulging or leaking, and keep opened tins in a covered container in the fridge for up to 2 days rather than in the tin.
Baked falafel
Falafel must start with dried chickpeas soaked overnight, never cooked and never from a tin. Grind them coarsely with herbs and spices to a crumbly mix that just holds when squeezed, chill, then shape and bake with a little oil for a crisp outside and a green, fluffy middle.
Ingredients (4 portions)
- 250 g dried chickpeas, soaked overnight and drained
- 1 small onion, roughly chopped
- 3 garlic cloves
- 30 g fresh parsley
- 30 g fresh coriander
- 2 tsp ground cumin
- 1 tsp ground coriander
- 1 tsp flaked sea salt
- ½ tsp bicarbonate of soda
- 2 tbsp plain flour
- 3 tbsp rapeseed oil
- Pulse the chickpeas, onion, garlic, herbs, spices and salt in a food processor to a coarse, crumbly mix (not a paste). Stir in the bicarbonate and flour and chill for 30 minutes.
- Heat the oven to 200°C (180°C fan, gas 6) and heat a tray with the oil for 5 minutes. Shape the mix into 12 patties and lay them on the hot tray.
- Bake for 25 minutes, turning once, until deep golden and hot in the centre. Serve in pitta with yogurt and salad.
Hot oven and hot trays: ovens, trays and tins are hot enough to burn badly. Use dry oven gloves (a damp cloth conducts heat), pull the shelf out a little before lifting a tray, put hot things on a heatproof surface and keep children away.
Blenders and food processors: the blade of a food processor is extremely sharp. Unplug it before you take the bowl apart, never put your fingers near the blade, and use a spatula to scrape, not a spoon while it runs.
Allergens in pulses: soya, peanuts and lupin are legumes and major allergens, and sesame (in tahini) is one too. Check labels on tinned pulses, flours and sauces, tell guests what is in a dish, and use separate pans and spoons if someone is allergic. Celery is in many stock cubes.
Experiments
Skinned or unskinned chickpeas
Smoothness.
- Make hummus from chickpeas with their skins on and another batch after rubbing the skins off.
Look for: Peeled chickpeas give a silkier hummus; leaving the skins on is quicker and tastes the same, but is slightly grainier.
Ice water or plain
Texture.
- Blend one batch with ice-cold water and one with room-temperature water.
Look for: Ice-cold water gives a lighter, paler hummus; room-temperature water is denser.
Tahini amount
Flavour.
- Make hummus with 2 tbsp of tahini and another with 4 tbsp.
Look for: More tahini gives a richer, nuttier hummus and a smoother texture; less is lighter and more chickpea-forward.
Baked or shallow-fried falafel
Crispness.
- Bake one tray and shallow-fry another in 1 cm of oil.
Look for: Fried falafel are crispier and darker; baked ones are lighter and use less oil but have a drier crust.
Tasting notes
| What I tried | Method or amount | What I saw | What I thought | Will I do it again? |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Classic hummus | ||||
| White bean and lemon dip | ||||
| Beetroot hummus | ||||
| Baked falafel | ||||
| Skinned or unskinned chickpeas | ||||
| Ice water or plain | ||||
| Tahini amount | ||||
| Baked or shallow-fried falafel |
Troubleshooting
| Problem | Likely cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Gritty hummus | Chickpeas under-cooked or not blended long | Cook them softer; blend 3 minutes |
| Bitter hummus | Old tahini or too much garlic | Use fresh tahini; use less garlic |
| Hummus too thick | Not enough water | Add ice water a spoonful at a time |
| Falafel fall apart | Mix too wet or not chilled | Chill, add a spoon of flour, shape firmly |
| Falafel dry inside | Overbaked or ground too fine | Keep the mix coarse; bake until golden, not dark |
| Falafel raw inside | Patties too thick | Make them 2 cm thick and bake until hot in the centre |
Tinned pulses: tinned pulses are cooked and ready to eat once drained and rinsed, which also washes off much of the salt. Check the use-by date, never use tins that are bulging or leaking, and keep opened tins in a covered container in the fridge for up to 2 days rather than in the tin.
Cooling and keeping stock: stock is an ideal place for bacteria to grow. Strain it, then cool it quickly in shallow containers or an ice bath, chill within 1 to 2 hours, and use within about 2 days (fish stock within 1 day) or freeze it. Never leave a big pot to cool slowly on the hob or worktop overnight. Reheat until steaming hot all the way through.
- I can cook chickpeas soft for hummus.
- I can make a silky hummus with ice water.
- I know why falafel use soaked, not cooked, chickpeas.
- I can shape and bake falafel.
- I know which dishes contain sesame.