Dals and Bean Curries
Cooking Skills: Pulses and Beans 1
Chapter 3 · Dals and Bean Curries
Skill goal
Cook pulses to a soft, spiced sauce and finish them with a sizzling tarka.
Shopping list for this chapter
The basics
A dal is a soft stew of split lentils, one of the great everyday dishes of India. The method is simple: simmer the lentils with turmeric until they collapse, whisk to a thick soup, and finish with a tarka (also called tadka or chaunk), a spoon of hot oil in which whole spices have sizzled, poured over the top at the last moment. The tarka gives aroma and punch that no amount of simmering can.
Bean curries use the same ideas with tinned or cooked beans: build a spiced onion and tomato base, add the beans, and simmer so the sauce clings. Chana masala (chickpeas) and rajma (kidney beans) are the best-known. For the sauce bases themselves see Cooking Skills: Sauces 2, chapter 3, and for rice to serve with them Cooking Skills: Rice 1, chapter 3. Red lentils cook fastest; yellow split lentils (toor dal) take longer and hold more shape.
The method
- Rinse the lentils until the water runs clear, then simmer with turmeric and no salt until soft.
- Whisk or mash to the thickness you like, adding hot water if too thick.
- Heat oil until it ripples, then fry whole spices for under a minute until they pop and smell fragrant.
- Pour the tarka onto the dal and cover for a minute, so the aroma is trapped.
- Finish with lemon and fresh coriander, and serve with rice or flatbread.
| Dish | Pulse | Base | Time (approximate) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Tarka dal | Red or yellow split lentils | Turmeric, garlic tarka | 35 minutes |
| Chana masala | Chickpeas (tinned) | Onion, tomato, spices | 35 minutes |
| Rajma | Kidney beans (tinned or cooked) | Onion, tomato, ginger | 40 minutes |
| Coconut lentil curry | Red lentils | Coconut milk, spices | 30 minutes |
Hot oil, spices, coconut milk and allergens
Hot oil and spices: a tarka (tempering) heats oil until spices pop and sizzle in seconds. Have everything ready, keep a lid to hand, stand back when you pour it onto the dal, because it spits and steams, and don't let the spices go black, which makes them bitter.Chilli and spices: chilli can sting skin and eyes, so wash your hands well after chopping it and don't touch your face. Add heat in small steps and keep portions for children mild.
Hot coconut milk: coconut milk spits when it first hits a hot pan and boils over easily. Add it slowly, stir, and keep the heat at a gentle simmer, never a hard boil, or it splits and turns oily.
Allergens in pulses: soya, peanuts and lupin are legumes and major allergens, and sesame (in tahini) is one too. Check labels on tinned pulses, flours and sauces, tell guests what is in a dish, and use separate pans and spoons if someone is allergic. Celery is in many stock cubes.
Try it
Level 1 · Start here
Tarka dal
The foundation. Cook red lentils with turmeric and a little ginger, whisk until thick, then pour over a tarka of cumin seeds, garlic and dried chilli. Serve with basmati rice and a squeeze of lemon. Naturally vegan.
Ingredients (4 portions)
- 250 g red split lentils, rinsed
- 800 ml water
- ½ tsp turmeric
- 1 tbsp grated fresh ginger
- 1 tsp flaked sea salt
- 2 tbsp rapeseed oil or ghee
- 1 tsp cumin seeds
- 3 garlic cloves, sliced
- 1 dried red chilli (optional)
- 1 lemon, juice
- Simmer the lentils, water, turmeric and ginger for 20 to 25 minutes, skimming the foam, until completely soft. Whisk until thick, add the salt and keep warm.
- Heat the oil in a small pan until a cumin seed sizzles. Add the cumin seeds, garlic and chilli and fry for about 1 minute until the garlic is golden.
- Pour the tarka over the dal (stand back), cover for 1 minute, stir in the lemon juice and serve.
Hot oil, spices and allergens
Hot oil and spices: a tarka (tempering) heats oil until spices pop and sizzle in seconds. Have everything ready, keep a lid to hand, stand back when you pour it onto the dal, because it spits and steams, and don't let the spices go black, which makes them bitter.Boiling over: pulses foam and boil over easily, and the starchy foam is scalding. Use a pan twice as big as the pulses and water need, skim the foam, keep the lid ajar and stay at the cooker.
Chilli and spices: chilli can sting skin and eyes, so wash your hands well after chopping it and don't touch your face. Add heat in small steps and keep portions for children mild.
Pulses and digestion: pulses contain sugars that some people find hard to digest and that cause wind. Soaking, discarding the soaking water, cooking until completely soft and building up the amount gradually all help. This is general information, not medical advice; talk to a doctor if you have a digestive condition.
Level 2 · Classic
Chana masala
A North Indian street-food classic, with tinned chickpeas to make it fast. Cook the onions until deep golden, fry the spices, add tomatoes and simmer until the oil separates. A pinch of garam masala and lemon finish it.
Ingredients (4 portions)
- 3 tbsp rapeseed oil
- 2 onions, finely chopped
- 4 garlic cloves, grated
- 2 tbsp grated fresh ginger
- 1 tsp cumin seeds
- 1 tsp ground coriander
- ½ tsp turmeric
- ½ tsp mild chilli powder
- 400 g tin of chopped tomatoes
- 2 tins of chickpeas (400 g each), drained and rinsed
- 150 ml water
- 1 tsp garam masala
- 1 lemon, juice
- Cook the onions in the oil for 12 to 15 minutes until deep golden. Add the garlic, ginger and spices for 1 minute.
- Add the tomatoes and cook for 8 minutes until the oil separates, then add the chickpeas and water and simmer for 15 minutes, mashing a few against the side of the pan.
- Stir in the garam masala and lemon juice and season. Serve with rice or flatbread.
Hot oil, spices and tinned pulses
Hot oil and spices: a tarka (tempering) heats oil until spices pop and sizzle in seconds. Have everything ready, keep a lid to hand, stand back when you pour it onto the dal, because it spits and steams, and don't let the spices go black, which makes them bitter.Chilli and spices: chilli can sting skin and eyes, so wash your hands well after chopping it and don't touch your face. Add heat in small steps and keep portions for children mild.
Tinned pulses: tinned pulses are cooked and ready to eat once drained and rinsed, which also washes off much of the salt. Check the use-by date, never use tins that are bulging or leaking, and keep opened tins in a covered container in the fridge for up to 2 days rather than in the tin.
Allergens in pulses: soya, peanuts and lupin are legumes and major allergens, and sesame (in tahini) is one too. Check labels on tinned pulses, flours and sauces, tell guests what is in a dish, and use separate pans and spoons if someone is allergic. Celery is in many stock cubes.
Level 2 · Kidney
Rajma (kidney bean curry)
Punjabi home cooking at its best: kidney beans in a thick, ginger-spiced tomato sauce, mashed slightly so it clings. Use tinned kidney beans (already cooked) or the beans you cooked safely in chapter 2.
Ingredients (4 portions)
- 3 tbsp rapeseed oil
- 1 tsp cumin seeds
- 2 onions, finely chopped
- 3 garlic cloves, grated
- 2 tbsp grated fresh ginger
- 1 tsp ground coriander
- ½ tsp turmeric
- ½ tsp mild chilli powder
- 400 g tin of chopped tomatoes
- 2 tins of kidney beans (400 g each), drained and rinsed
- 200 ml water
- 1 tsp garam masala
- 2 tbsp chopped coriander
- Heat the oil, fry the cumin seeds for 30 seconds, then cook the onions for 12 minutes until golden. Add the garlic, ginger and ground spices for 1 minute.
- Add the tomatoes and cook for 8 minutes, then the beans and water, and simmer for 20 minutes, mashing a few beans to thicken.
- Stir in the garam masala, season and scatter with coriander.
Hot oil, spices and cooked kidney beans
Hot oil and spices: a tarka (tempering) heats oil until spices pop and sizzle in seconds. Have everything ready, keep a lid to hand, stand back when you pour it onto the dal, because it spits and steams, and don't let the spices go black, which makes them bitter.Chilli and spices: chilli can sting skin and eyes, so wash your hands well after chopping it and don't touch your face. Add heat in small steps and keep portions for children mild.
Tinned pulses: tinned pulses are cooked and ready to eat once drained and rinsed, which also washes off much of the salt. Check the use-by date, never use tins that are bulging or leaking, and keep opened tins in a covered container in the fridge for up to 2 days rather than in the tin.
Raw kidney beans are toxic: dried red kidney beans (and, to a lesser degree, other dried beans) contain a toxin that causes severe sickness if they are undercooked. Soak them, drain, then boil them hard in fresh water for at least 10 minutes (general guidance) before simmering until soft. A slow cooker does not get hot enough to do this safely. Tinned beans are already cooked.
Level 3 · Coconut
A coconut lentil curry
Red lentils cooked in coconut milk and spices, finished with lime and a quick mustard seed tarka. It is creamy without cream, and vegan. Keep the heat low once the coconut milk goes in.
Ingredients (4 portions)
- 2 tbsp rapeseed oil
- 1 onion, finely chopped
- 3 garlic cloves, grated
- 1 tbsp grated fresh ginger
- 1 tsp ground coriander
- ½ tsp turmeric
- 200 g red split lentils, rinsed
- 400 ml tinned coconut milk
- 400 ml water
- 1 tsp mustard seeds
- 10 curry leaves (optional)
- 1 lime, juice
- Soften the onion in half the oil for 8 minutes, add the garlic, ginger, coriander and turmeric for 1 minute, then the lentils, coconut milk and water.
- Simmer gently for 20 to 25 minutes, stirring, until the lentils are soft and the curry is thick. Season.
- Heat the remaining oil, fry the mustard seeds and curry leaves for 30 seconds until they pop, pour over the curry and finish with lime juice.
Coconut milk, hot oil and spices
Hot coconut milk: coconut milk spits when it first hits a hot pan and boils over easily. Add it slowly, stir, and keep the heat at a gentle simmer, never a hard boil, or it splits and turns oily.Hot oil and spices: a tarka (tempering) heats oil until spices pop and sizzle in seconds. Have everything ready, keep a lid to hand, stand back when you pour it onto the dal, because it spits and steams, and don't let the spices go black, which makes them bitter.
Chilli and spices: chilli can sting skin and eyes, so wash your hands well after chopping it and don't touch your face. Add heat in small steps and keep portions for children mild.
Boiling over: pulses foam and boil over easily, and the starchy foam is scalding. Use a pan twice as big as the pulses and water need, skim the foam, keep the lid ajar and stay at the cooker.
Experiments
Experiment
Red or yellow lentils
Texture.
- Cook red lentils and yellow split lentils for the same time.
Look for: Red lentils collapse to a smooth purée in 20 minutes; yellow ones take longer and hold some bite, giving a more textured dal.
Experiment
Tarka at the start or the end
Aroma.
- Make two dals, one with the spices fried first and one with a tarka poured at the end.
Look for: The end-tarka is more fragrant and sharp; the start-fried spices are softer and more blended.
Experiment
Ginger and garlic early or late
Flavour.
- Add ginger and garlic to one curry at the start and to another near the end.
Look for: Added early they mellow and sweeten; added late they are sharper and raw-tasting.
Experiment
Mashed or whole
Texture.
- Mash half the chickpeas in one pot, and leave them whole in another.
Look for: Mashed chickpeas thicken and make the sauce cling; whole ones keep a bite but the sauce is thinner.
Tasting notes
| What I tried | Method or amount | What I saw | What I thought | Will I do it again? |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tarka dal | ||||
| Chana masala | ||||
| Rajma | ||||
| Coconut lentil curry | ||||
| Red or yellow lentils | ||||
| Tarka at the start or the end | ||||
| Ginger and garlic early or late | ||||
| Mashed or whole |
Troubleshooting
| Problem | Likely cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Dal is watery | Too much water or undercooked | Simmer longer and mash; reduce uncovered |
| Dal is thick as paste | Overcooked | Whisk in hot water |
| Bitter spices | Tarka burnt | Fry for under a minute; start over if black |
| Curry sauce is thin | Not simmered enough | Reduce, or mash some pulses |
| Raw-tasting spices | Added late to a cold sauce | Fry them in oil first |
| Split coconut sauce | Boiled hard | Keep to a gentle simmer |
Hot oil, spices and leftovers
Hot oil and spices: a tarka (tempering) heats oil until spices pop and sizzle in seconds. Have everything ready, keep a lid to hand, stand back when you pour it onto the dal, because it spits and steams, and don't let the spices go black, which makes them bitter.Chilli and spices: chilli can sting skin and eyes, so wash your hands well after chopping it and don't touch your face. Add heat in small steps and keep portions for children mild.
Cooling and keeping stock: stock is an ideal place for bacteria to grow. Strain it, then cool it quickly in shallow containers or an ice bath, chill within 1 to 2 hours, and use within about 2 days (fish stock within 1 day) or freeze it. Never leave a big pot to cool slowly on the hob or worktop overnight. Reheat until steaming hot all the way through.
Checkpoint: can you do this now?
- I can cook lentils to a smooth dal.
- I can make a tarka without burning it.
- I can build an onion and tomato curry base.
- I can cook beans in a curry sauce.
- I know to finish with acid and herbs.
Next chapter
Cooking Skills: Pulses and Beans 1, chapter 4 is Hummus, Dips and Falafel: smooth purées and crisp baked patties.