Crab and Shellfish in Depth
Cooking Skills: Fish and Shellfish 2
Chapter 5 · Crab and Shellfish in Depth
Skill goal
Use cooked crab, clams and langoustines well, and cook them without wasting a scrap.
Shopping list for this chapter
The basics
Shellfish needs more care than fish, but the rewards are large. Cooked crab is sold as a whole dressed crab or as a tub of picked meat. White meat (claws and legs) is sweet and firm; brown meat (the body) is rich, creamy and strong. Clams are bought live in their shells and cooked until they open. Langoustines (Scottish langoustines, also called Dublin Bay prawns) and lobster tails are cooked quickly, and this course uses ones that are already cooked, frozen or prepared. It does not teach killing live crustaceans.
Keep the cooking short, the seasoning light and the lemon close. Cooking Skills: Fish and Shellfish 1, chapter 6 covers prawns, mussels, scallops and squid, and chapter 7 covers grilling. For the mayonnaise see Cooking Skills: Eggs 2, chapter 7, and for pasta cooking Cooking Skills: Pasta 1, chapter 6. No wine is used; stock, lemon and the clam liquor give the savoury depth.
The method
- Buy cooked crab fresh and cold, and use it within a day.
- Taste the white and brown separately, then season and combine to your liking.
- Soak clams in cold salted water for 20 minutes to release grit, then rinse.
- Cook clams until they open, and throw away any that stay shut.
- Finish with acid and fresh herbs, never long cooking, because shellfish toughens fast.
| Shellfish | Buy | Cook | Done when |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cooked crab | Dressed or picked | Not cooked, just seasoned | Cold, fresh-smelling |
| Clams | Live, shut shells | 3 to 5 minutes | Shells wide open |
| Langoustines | Cooked or frozen | 2 to 3 minutes under the grill | Hot, flesh opaque |
| Lobster tail | Prepared, frozen or fresh | 5 to 6 minutes under the grill | Flesh opaque and firm |
Shellfish safety, crab shell, allergens and hot grill
Shellfish safety: shellfish must be very fresh and cooked until the shells open and the flesh is firm and opaque. Buy from a good fishmonger, keep it cold (below 5°C), cook it the day you buy it, and never eat shellfish that smells strongly of ammonia. Mussels that stay open when tapped before cooking, or stay shut after cooking, must be thrown away.Crab shell and cooked crab: buy crab that is already cooked and dressed or picked, from a fishmonger you trust, keep it below 5°C and eat it within a day. Crab shell is sharp and cracking it sends splinters, so wear a cloth or gloves and work on a board. Brown meat is rich and strongly flavoured; discard the grey feathery gills and the stomach sac.
Shellfish allergens: crustaceans (prawns) and molluscs (mussels, scallops, squid) are major allergens and can cause severe reactions. Cook them with their own board, pan and tools, tell guests clearly, and don't serve them to anyone who is allergic or unsure.
Hot grill and hot barbecue: a grill, grill pan or barbecue is extremely hot, and oily fish drips fat that flares. Stand back, use long tongs and oven gloves, keep the grill pan clear of loose items, and never leave it unattended. Use a barbecue outdoors only; it gives off carbon monoxide.
Try it
Level 1 · Start here
Crab on toast
The simplest way to enjoy crab. Mix the white and brown meat with lemon, a little mayonnaise and chives, then pile onto well-toasted sourdough. Season carefully, because good crab needs little.
Ingredients (2 portions)
- 150 g cooked white crab meat
- 50 g cooked brown crab meat
- 2 tbsp mayonnaise
- 1 lemon, zest and juice
- 1 tbsp chopped chives
- 2 thick slices of sourdough
- 1 pinch cayenne or mild chilli powder
- Check the white meat for stray shell with your fingers. Mix the white meat with half the mayonnaise, lemon zest, juice and chives.
- Season the brown meat with the rest of the mayonnaise, a little lemon and the cayenne, and beat until smooth.
- Toast the bread, spread with brown meat, pile on white meat and serve at once.
Cooked crab, shell and allergens
Crab shell and cooked crab: buy crab that is already cooked and dressed or picked, from a fishmonger you trust, keep it below 5°C and eat it within a day. Crab shell is sharp and cracking it sends splinters, so wear a cloth or gloves and work on a board. Brown meat is rich and strongly flavoured; discard the grey feathery gills and the stomach sac.Shellfish allergens: crustaceans (prawns) and molluscs (mussels, scallops, squid) are major allergens and can cause severe reactions. Cook them with their own board, pan and tools, tell guests clearly, and don't serve them to anyone who is allergic or unsure.
Allergens: contains crustaceans (crab), egg (mayonnaise), gluten and sometimes mustard.
Level 2 · Fry
Crab cakes
Crab is so delicate that it needs just enough binding to hold. Use mashed potato or fresh breadcrumbs, chill the cakes well, and fry gently. Don't overmix, or the crab turns to paste.
Ingredients (4 portions)
- 300 g cooked white crab meat
- 100 g cold mashed potato
- 2 spring onions, finely sliced
- 1 egg, beaten
- 1 tbsp mayonnaise
- 1 lemon, zest and juice
- 60 g panko breadcrumbs
- 3 tbsp rapeseed oil
- Gently mix the crab, mash, spring onions, half the egg, mayonnaise and lemon. Shape into 8 cakes about 2 cm thick. Chill for 30 minutes.
- Brush with the remaining egg and press into the panko.
- Fry in the hot oil over a medium heat for 3 minutes a side until golden and hot through. Serve with lemon.
Hot oil, crab and allergens
Hot pan and hot oil: frying fish uses a hot pan and spitting oil. Dry the fish well, lay it down away from you, use a splash guard if you have one, keep the handle turned in and keep children well back.Crab shell and cooked crab: buy crab that is already cooked and dressed or picked, from a fishmonger you trust, keep it below 5°C and eat it within a day. Crab shell is sharp and cracking it sends splinters, so wear a cloth or gloves and work on a board. Brown meat is rich and strongly flavoured; discard the grey feathery gills and the stomach sac.
Shellfish allergens: crustaceans (prawns) and molluscs (mussels, scallops, squid) are major allergens and can cause severe reactions. Cook them with their own board, pan and tools, tell guests clearly, and don't serve them to anyone who is allergic or unsure.
Allergens: contains crustaceans (crab), egg and gluten.
Level 2 · Pasta
Clams with garlic and chilli spaghetti (no wine)
Spaghetti alle vongole usually uses white wine. Here a splash of pasta water and lemon give the sauce its lift. Soak the clams first for no grit, and add them to a hot pan so they open in a few minutes.
Ingredients (2 portions)
- 500 g fresh clams, soaked in cold salted water for 20 minutes
- 200 g dried spaghetti
- 3 tbsp rapeseed oil
- 3 garlic cloves, sliced
- 1 red chilli, finely sliced (deseed for mild)
- 100 ml pasta cooking water
- 1 lemon, juice
- 2 tbsp chopped parsley
- Boil the spaghetti in well-salted water for 2 minutes less than the packet says. Rinse the clams and discard any that stay open when tapped.
- Warm the oil with the garlic and chilli for 1 minute, add the clams and 100 ml pasta water, cover and cook for 3 to 5 minutes until they open. Discard any that stay shut.
- Add the drained spaghetti and toss for 1 minute, then the lemon juice and parsley, and serve at once.
Shellfish safety, hot water and allergens
Shellfish safety: shellfish must be very fresh and cooked until the shells open and the flesh is firm and opaque. Buy from a good fishmonger, keep it cold (below 5°C), cook it the day you buy it, and never eat shellfish that smells strongly of ammonia. Mussels that stay open when tapped before cooking, or stay shut after cooking, must be thrown away.Shellfish allergens: crustaceans (prawns) and molluscs (mussels, scallops, squid) are major allergens and can cause severe reactions. Cook them with their own board, pan and tools, tell guests clearly, and don't serve them to anyone who is allergic or unsure.
Hot liquid and steam: hot milk, stock and poaching liquid scald badly and steam burns faster than boiling water. Keep the handle turned in, lift lids away from your face, use a slotted spoon or fish slice over the pan, and never carry a full pan across a busy kitchen.
Chilli and spices: chilli can sting skin and eyes, so wash your hands well after chopping it and don't touch your face. Add heat in small steps, and keep portions for children mild.
Level 3 · Grill
Grilled langoustines or lobster tail with garlic butter
Buy cooked or frozen langoustines, or prepared lobster tails with the shell split on top. Heat them under a very hot grill with garlic butter just until hot and opaque, because they are already cooked or only need 5 minutes. A lemon wedge and bread complete it.
Ingredients (2 portions)
- 6 cooked langoustines, or 2 prepared lobster tails (defrosted)
- 50 g soft butter
- 2 garlic cloves, grated
- 1 tbsp chopped parsley
- 1 lemon, in wedges
- 1 pinch flaked sea salt
- Heat the grill to high. Mash the butter with the garlic, parsley and salt.
- Split the langoustines lengthways (or lay the lobster tails flesh up) on a tray, and spread with garlic butter.
- Grill for 2 to 3 minutes (langoustines) or 5 to 6 minutes (lobster tail) until hot and opaque. Serve with lemon.
Hot grill, shell and allergens
Hot grill and hot barbecue: a grill, grill pan or barbecue is extremely hot, and oily fish drips fat that flares. Stand back, use long tongs and oven gloves, keep the grill pan clear of loose items, and never leave it unattended. Use a barbecue outdoors only; it gives off carbon monoxide.Crab shell and cooked crab: buy crab that is already cooked and dressed or picked, from a fishmonger you trust, keep it below 5°C and eat it within a day. Crab shell is sharp and cracking it sends splinters, so wear a cloth or gloves and work on a board. Brown meat is rich and strongly flavoured; discard the grey feathery gills and the stomach sac.
Shellfish allergens: crustaceans (prawns) and molluscs (mussels, scallops, squid) are major allergens and can cause severe reactions. Cook them with their own board, pan and tools, tell guests clearly, and don't serve them to anyone who is allergic or unsure.
Allergens: contains crustaceans and milk.
Experiments
Experiment
White or brown meat
Flavour.
- Taste white and brown meat on their own, then mixed 3 to 1.
Look for: White is sweet and clean; brown is rich and strong. Mixed, the brown gives depth without overpowering.
Experiment
Cooked crab bought or cooked
Convenience.
- Compare a shop-bought dressed crab with freshly boiled crab if your fishmonger sells it.
Look for: Bought cooked crab is easy and reliable; freshly cooked is a little sweeter but needs more work and care.
Experiment
Clams soaked or not
Grit.
- Cook half the clams after soaking and half without.
Look for: The soaked clams are clean; the unsoaked ones have sand in the sauce.
Experiment
Butter flavoured early or late
Garlic.
- Cook garlic butter for 5 minutes on one tray and add it only for the last minute on another.
Look for: Early garlic burns and turns bitter; late garlic butter melts into a fresh, mild sauce.
Tasting notes
| What I tried | Method or amount | What I saw | What I thought | Will I do it again? |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Crab on toast | ||||
| Crab cakes | ||||
| Clam spaghetti | ||||
| Grilled langoustines | ||||
| White or brown meat | ||||
| Cooked crab bought or cooked | ||||
| Clams soaked or not | ||||
| Butter flavoured early or late |
Troubleshooting
| Problem | Likely cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Crab cakes fall apart | Too wet or not chilled | Use cold dry mash; chill for 30 minutes |
| Gritty clams | Not soaked | Soak in cold salted water for 20 minutes and rinse |
| Clams won't open | Dead or pan not hot enough | Discard those that stay shut; cook on a high heat with a lid |
| Tough lobster or langoustine | Overcooked | Grill only until hot and opaque |
| Crab tastes flat | Under-seasoned | Add lemon, salt and a little cayenne |
| Shell in the crab | Missed | Check by hand on a plate before using |
Shellfish, grill and leftovers
Shellfish safety: shellfish must be very fresh and cooked until the shells open and the flesh is firm and opaque. Buy from a good fishmonger, keep it cold (below 5°C), cook it the day you buy it, and never eat shellfish that smells strongly of ammonia. Mussels that stay open when tapped before cooking, or stay shut after cooking, must be thrown away.Hot grill and hot barbecue: a grill, grill pan or barbecue is extremely hot, and oily fish drips fat that flares. Stand back, use long tongs and oven gloves, keep the grill pan clear of loose items, and never leave it unattended. Use a barbecue outdoors only; it gives off carbon monoxide.
Leftover fish: cool cooked fish quickly, refrigerate it within 1 to 2 hours, and eat it within about 1 day (2 at most). Reheat only once, until steaming hot all the way through. Do not refreeze fish that was frozen and thawed unless you cook it first.
Checkpoint: can you do this now?
- I can season cooked crab.
- I can tell white from brown meat.
- I can soak and cook clams.
- I can grill prepared shellfish quickly.
- I know when to throw clams away.
Next chapter
Cooking Skills: Fish and Shellfish 2, chapter 6 is Curing and Salting: salt, sugar and time.