Fish Curries
Cooking Skills: Fish and Shellfish 2
Chapter 4 · Fish Curries
Skill goal
Build a flavoursome sauce first, then add fragile fish at the end so it stays in pieces.
Shopping list for this chapter
The basics
A curry is two jobs: first make a sauce, then poach the fish in it. The sauce takes 20 minutes or more and gets better with time; the fish needs 4 to 6 minutes, so it goes in last. Fragile fish breaks apart if stirred or boiled, so use big chunks, simmer gently and shake the pan rather than stirring. For the base itself see Cooking Skills: Sauces 2, chapter 3, and for rice Cooking Skills: Rice 1, chapter 3.
Three styles here: a spiced tomato base (North Indian style), a Thai-style coconut curry with paste, and a molee (a mild, creamy Keralan stew with ginger, green chilli and coconut). The quick prawn curry is the one for a weeknight. All are alcohol-free, and chilli can be left out for children.
The method
- Fry the spices in oil for 30 to 60 seconds until fragrant, but never let them burn.
- Build the base: cook the onion, garlic, ginger and tomato until soft and the oil separates.
- Add the liquid (coconut milk, stock or yogurt) and simmer 10 minutes to make the sauce.
- Add the fish last in big chunks and simmer gently for 4 to 6 minutes without stirring.
- Finish with acid and herbs, such as lime, lemon, tamarind or coriander.
| Curry | Base | Fish | Time (approximate) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Spiced-base fish curry | Tomato and onion | Cod or haddock | 35 minutes |
| Thai-style coconut | Coconut and curry paste | Firm white fish | 30 minutes |
| Keralan-style molee | Coconut, ginger and green chilli | Any firm fish | 35 minutes |
| Quick prawn curry | Tinned tomato and spices | Raw king prawns | 20 minutes |
Spices, hot coconut milk and allergens
Spices and hot oil: whole spices pop and spit in hot oil, and ground spices burn in seconds, turning bitter. Keep a lid or splash guard to hand, add the next ingredient the moment the spices smell fragrant, and keep your face back from the pan.Hot coconut milk: coconut milk spits when it first hits a hot pan and boils over easily. Add it slowly, stir, and keep the heat at a gentle simmer, never a hard boil, or it splits and turns oily.
Chilli and spices: chilli can sting skin and eyes, so wash your hands well after chopping it and don't touch your face. Add heat in small steps, and keep portions for children mild.
Allergens: fish is one of the 14 major allergens, and cross-contact is easy: it can pass on boards, oil, tongs and pans. Crustaceans (prawns), molluscs (mussels, scallops), gluten, milk and egg also appear in fish recipes. Always tell guests what is in a dish.
Try it
Level 1 · Start here
A fish curry on a spiced base
A straightforward weeknight curry. Fry whole cumin and mustard seeds, soften an onion, add tomato and ground spices, and simmer to a thick sauce before the fish goes in. Cod, pollock or haddock all work.
Ingredients (4 portions)
- 3 tbsp rapeseed oil
- 1 tsp cumin seeds
- 1 tsp mustard seeds
- 1 onion, finely chopped
- 3 garlic cloves, grated
- 2 tbsp grated fresh ginger
- 1 tsp ground coriander
- 1 tsp turmeric
- ½ tsp mild chilli powder
- 400 g tinned chopped tomatoes
- 150 ml water
- 600 g firm white fish, in large chunks
- 1 lemon, juice
- 2 tbsp chopped coriander
- Fry the cumin and mustard seeds in the oil for 30 seconds until they pop, then add the onion and cook for 8 minutes. Add the garlic, ginger and ground spices for 1 minute.
- Add the tomatoes and water and simmer for 15 minutes until thick. Season.
- Add the fish and simmer very gently for 5 to 6 minutes. Finish with lemon juice and coriander, and serve with rice.
Hot oil, spices and allergens
Spices and hot oil: whole spices pop and spit in hot oil, and ground spices burn in seconds, turning bitter. Keep a lid or splash guard to hand, add the next ingredient the moment the spices smell fragrant, and keep your face back from the pan.Chilli and spices: chilli can sting skin and eyes, so wash your hands well after chopping it and don't touch your face. Add heat in small steps, and keep portions for children mild.
Allergens: fish is one of the 14 major allergens, and cross-contact is easy: it can pass on boards, oil, tongs and pans. Crustaceans (prawns), molluscs (mussels, scallops), gluten, milk and egg also appear in fish recipes. Always tell guests what is in a dish.
Bones: even fillets can hide thin pin bones. Run a clean finger along the fillet and pull any bones out with tweezers, and warn children and anyone you serve. Whole sardines and mackerel have fine bones that are best taken out.
Level 2 · Thai-style
A Thai-style coconut fish curry
Fry the curry paste in a little oil first to wake it up, then add the coconut milk and simmer. Many pastes contain shrimp paste, so check the label if anyone has a shellfish allergy. Lime and Thai basil at the end make it taste fresh.
Ingredients (4 portions)
- 2 tbsp rapeseed oil
- 3 tbsp green or red Thai curry paste
- 400 ml tinned coconut milk
- 150 ml low-salt fish stock
- 1 red pepper, sliced
- 100 g green beans, trimmed and halved
- 600 g firm white fish, in large chunks
- 1 lime, juice
- 1 handful Thai basil or basil leaves
- Fry the paste in the oil for 1 minute until fragrant, then add the coconut milk and stock, bring to a gentle simmer and cook for 8 minutes.
- Add the pepper and beans and cook for 4 minutes, then add the fish and simmer gently for 5 minutes.
- Finish with lime juice and basil, and serve with rice.
Hot coconut milk, shellfish paste and allergens
Hot coconut milk: coconut milk spits when it first hits a hot pan and boils over easily. Add it slowly, stir, and keep the heat at a gentle simmer, never a hard boil, or it splits and turns oily.Spices and hot oil: whole spices pop and spit in hot oil, and ground spices burn in seconds, turning bitter. Keep a lid or splash guard to hand, add the next ingredient the moment the spices smell fragrant, and keep your face back from the pan.
Shellfish allergens: crustaceans (prawns) and molluscs (mussels, scallops, squid) are major allergens and can cause severe reactions. Cook them with their own board, pan and tools, tell guests clearly, and don't serve them to anyone who is allergic or unsure.
Allergens: contains fish and often crustaceans (shrimp paste in the curry paste).
Level 3 · Keralan
A Keralan-style fish molee
A gentle, creamy stew from Kerala: ginger, green chilli, onion and turmeric in coconut milk, with fish added at the very end. It is mild and good for family tables. Use curry leaves if you can find them.
Ingredients (4 portions)
- 2 tbsp rapeseed oil
- 1 tsp mustard seeds
- 10 curry leaves (optional)
- 1 onion, thinly sliced
- 2 tbsp grated fresh ginger
- 3 garlic cloves, sliced
- 1 green chilli, sliced (deseed for mild)
- ½ tsp turmeric
- 400 ml tinned coconut milk
- 600 g firm white fish, in large chunks
- 1 lime, juice
- Fry the mustard seeds and curry leaves in the oil for 30 seconds. Add the onion, ginger, garlic and chilli and cook gently for 8 minutes without browning. Stir in the turmeric.
- Add the coconut milk and simmer very gently for 10 minutes, never boiling hard.
- Slide in the fish and simmer for 5 to 6 minutes until it flakes. Season, add the lime juice and serve with rice.
Hot coconut milk, spices and chilli
Hot coconut milk: coconut milk spits when it first hits a hot pan and boils over easily. Add it slowly, stir, and keep the heat at a gentle simmer, never a hard boil, or it splits and turns oily.Spices and hot oil: whole spices pop and spit in hot oil, and ground spices burn in seconds, turning bitter. Keep a lid or splash guard to hand, add the next ingredient the moment the spices smell fragrant, and keep your face back from the pan.
Chilli and spices: chilli can sting skin and eyes, so wash your hands well after chopping it and don't touch your face. Add heat in small steps, and keep portions for children mild.
Bones: even fillets can hide thin pin bones. Run a clean finger along the fillet and pull any bones out with tweezers, and warn children and anyone you serve. Whole sardines and mackerel have fine bones that are best taken out.
Level 3 · Quick
A quick prawn curry
Raw king prawns need only 2 to 3 minutes, so the sauce comes first. A tin of tomatoes and a handful of spices make a good quick base. This is the one to make on a busy evening.
Ingredients (4 portions)
- 2 tbsp rapeseed oil
- 1 onion, finely chopped
- 3 garlic cloves, grated
- 1 tbsp grated fresh ginger
- 2 tsp garam masala
- 1 tsp ground coriander
- ½ tsp turmeric
- 400 g tinned chopped tomatoes
- 100 ml water
- 500 g raw king prawns, peeled
- 3 tbsp plain yogurt
- 2 tbsp chopped coriander
- Soften the onion in the oil for 6 minutes, add the garlic, ginger and spices for 1 minute, then the tomatoes and water. Simmer for 12 minutes until thick.
- Add the prawns and cook for 2 to 3 minutes until they are pink and curled.
- Take off the heat, stir in the yogurt and coriander, and serve with rice.
Shellfish, spices and allergens
Shellfish safety: shellfish must be very fresh and cooked until the shells open and the flesh is firm and opaque. Buy from a good fishmonger, keep it cold (below 5°C), cook it the day you buy it, and never eat shellfish that smells strongly of ammonia. Mussels that stay open when tapped before cooking, or stay shut after cooking, must be thrown away.Shellfish allergens: crustaceans (prawns) and molluscs (mussels, scallops, squid) are major allergens and can cause severe reactions. Cook them with their own board, pan and tools, tell guests clearly, and don't serve them to anyone who is allergic or unsure.
Spices and hot oil: whole spices pop and spit in hot oil, and ground spices burn in seconds, turning bitter. Keep a lid or splash guard to hand, add the next ingredient the moment the spices smell fragrant, and keep your face back from the pan.
Allergens: contains crustaceans (prawns) and milk.
Experiments
Experiment
Coconut milk or yogurt
Richness.
- Finish two small pots, one with coconut milk and one with yogurt.
Look for: Coconut milk gives a rounded, sweet richness; yogurt gives a sharper, tangier sauce that can split if boiled.
Experiment
Fish added early or late
Texture.
- Add fish to one pot at the start and to another for the last 5 minutes.
Look for: Early fish breaks up and goes dry; fish added late stays in tender flakes.
Experiment
Whole or ground spices
Flavour.
- Make two small bases, one with whole cumin seeds and one with ground cumin.
Look for: Whole seeds give pops of flavour and aroma; ground gives an even, blended taste. Ground burns faster.
Experiment
Tamarind or lemon
Sourness.
- Finish two pots, one with tamarind and one with lemon.
Look for: Tamarind gives a deeper, fruity sourness; lemon gives a clean, bright one.
Tasting notes
| What I tried | Method or amount | What I saw | What I thought | Will I do it again? |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Spiced fish curry | ||||
| Thai-style coconut curry | ||||
| Fish molee | ||||
| Quick prawn curry | ||||
| Coconut milk or yogurt | ||||
| Fish added early or late | ||||
| Whole or ground spices | ||||
| Tamarind or lemon |
Troubleshooting
| Problem | Likely cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Fish breaks up | Stirred or boiled | Shake the pan; simmer gently |
| Split or oily coconut sauce | Boiled hard | Keep to a gentle simmer |
| Bitter spices | Burnt in the pan | Fry for 30 to 60 seconds only; add liquid at once |
| Thin sauce | Not reduced enough | Simmer the base longer before the fish |
| Too hot | Too much chilli | Add yogurt or coconut milk; deseed next time |
| Rubbery prawns | Overcooked | Add at the end; 2 to 3 minutes only |
Spices, shellfish and leftovers
Spices and hot oil: whole spices pop and spit in hot oil, and ground spices burn in seconds, turning bitter. Keep a lid or splash guard to hand, add the next ingredient the moment the spices smell fragrant, and keep your face back from the pan.Shellfish safety: shellfish must be very fresh and cooked until the shells open and the flesh is firm and opaque. Buy from a good fishmonger, keep it cold (below 5°C), cook it the day you buy it, and never eat shellfish that smells strongly of ammonia. Mussels that stay open when tapped before cooking, or stay shut after cooking, must be thrown away.
Leftover fish: cool cooked fish quickly, refrigerate it within 1 to 2 hours, and eat it within about 1 day (2 at most). Reheat only once, until steaming hot all the way through. Do not refreeze fish that was frozen and thawed unless you cook it first.
Checkpoint: can you do this now?
- I can fry spices without burning them.
- I can build a curry sauce before the fish.
- I can add fish last so it stays in pieces.
- I can balance a curry with acid.
- I can make a curry mild enough for children.
Next chapter
Cooking Skills: Fish and Shellfish 2, chapter 5 is Crab and Shellfish in Depth: preparing crab, langoustines and clams.