Awkward Vegetables

Cooking Skills: Vegetables 2

Chapter 8 · Awkward Vegetables

Skill goal
Prepare and cook awkward vegetables with confidence: asparagus, fennel, celeriac, beetroot and globe artichokes.

Shopping list for this chapter

The basics

Some vegetables look intimidating: spiky artichokes, knobbly celeriac, bleeding beetroot, thin asparagus spears with woody ends. None of them is hard once you know the one trick for each. This chapter is a set of preparation skills, with each vegetable cooked simply so you can taste what it is.

The trick for each

VegetableThe challengeThe trick
AsparagusWoody endsSnap where it breaks naturally; peel thick spears
FennelTough core and outer layersTrim, cut in wedges through the root, roast or braise
CeleriacKnobbly, thick skin; browns when cutCut the skin off with a knife; rub with lemon
BeetrootStains everythingGloves, apron; cook whole and peel after
Globe artichokeSpiky, with an inedible chokeTrim, boil, eat the leaf bases and the heart
Leaves: scrape the soft base with your teeth Choke (hairy): scoop out and throw away Heart: the best part, tender and nutty Stem: peel it and eat it with the heart
Figure 8. The anatomy of a globe artichoke. Only the soft base of each leaf and the heart are eaten; the hairy choke is thrown away.

Stopping browning

Celeriac, artichokes, apples and potatoes turn brown when cut, because enzymes in the cut surface react with air. Rub them with lemon juice or keep them in a bowl of water with a squeeze of lemon (called acidulated water) until they are cooked.

Buying and storing

  • Asparagus: firm, bright spears with tight tips. Stand them in an inch of water in the fridge, or wrap the ends in damp kitchen paper. Use within a few days.
  • Fennel: firm, white bulbs with fresh fronds; keeps for about a week in the fridge.
  • Celeriac: heavy for its size, firm, with few small roots. It keeps for weeks in a cool place.
  • Beetroot: firm, with no soft spots. Cut off the leaves (they can be cooked as greens) and leave a bit of stem so it doesn't bleed.
  • Artichokes: heavy, tight leaves, with no brown or dry tips. Use within a few days.

Peel or scrub?

Young beetroot and fennel only need a scrub. Celeriac, big beetroot and artichoke stalks need peeling or cutting away. Asparagus needs the lower half peeled if the spears are thick.

Try it

Level 1 · Start here

Asparagus with lemon

15 minutes2 portionstrimming the woody ends and cooking just enough

Asparagus is an expensive treat in season (in the UK, roughly late April to June), so it is worth cooking carefully. Snap off the woody ends, then boil, steam or roast.

Ingredients (2 portions)

  • 250 g asparagus spears
  • 1 tbsp olive oil or butter
  • ½ lemon, zest and juice
  • 1 tbsp grated hard cheese (optional)
  • 1 pinch salt and pepper
  1. Hold a spear at both ends and bend it gently: it snaps where the tender part meets the woody base. Snap one, then cut the others to the same length. Peel the lower half of thick spears.
  2. Boil or steam for 3 to 5 minutes, until bright green and just tender. (Roast: toss in oil, 200°C or 180°C fan, 10 to 12 minutes.)
  3. Drain and toss with the oil or butter, lemon zest and juice, salt and pepper. Top with cheese.
Thin or thick
Thick spears are often more tender than thin ones, but need the lower half peeled. Judge the cooking time by thickness.
Level 2 · Roast

Roast fennel

40 minutes2 portionsturning a raw vegetable into something sweet and soft

Raw fennel crunches like celery with an aniseed flavour; roasted, it turns sweet, soft and golden. Set the oven to 200°C (180°C fan).

Ingredients (2 portions)

  • 2 medium fennel bulbs, trimmed and cut into 1 cm wedges
  • 1 tbsp olive oil
  • 1 tsp fennel seeds (optional)
  • ½ lemon, juice
  • 1 pinch salt and pepper
  1. Trim the stalks and base. Cut each bulb into wedges through the root so the layers stay together.
  2. Toss with the oil, seeds, salt and pepper and lay them on a tray in a single layer.
  3. Roast for 25 to 30 minutes, turning once, until the edges caramelise and a knife slides in.
  4. Squeeze over lemon juice and serve.
Level 2 · Peel

Celeriac steaks

50 minutes3 portionspeeling a knobbly root and stopping it browning

Celeriac is knobbly and ugly but delicious. Peel it generously with a knife, not a peeler, and rub the cut surfaces with lemon so they don't turn brown.

Ingredients (3 portions)

  • 1 celeriac (about 600 g)
  • 2 tbsp olive oil
  • 1 lemon, cut in half
  • 1 tsp thyme leaves or dried thyme
  • 1 tbsp grated cheese or toasted seeds (optional)
  • 1 pinch salt and pepper
  1. Slice off the top and bottom. Stand it on a flat end and cut the skin off in strips with a sharp knife, following the curve. Rub with lemon.
  2. Cut into slices about 2 cm thick (the 'steaks'). Brush both sides with oil and season with thyme, salt and pepper.
  3. Roast on a tray at 200°C (180°C fan) for 30 to 40 minutes, turning once, until golden and tender.
  4. Finish with a squeeze of lemon and the cheese or seeds.
Knife safety
Knife safety: cut on a stable board (a damp cloth underneath), tuck your guiding fingertips back (the claw), and cut round or slippery vegetables on a flat face so they can't roll. A sharp knife is safer than a blunt one. Never catch a falling knife. Cooking Skills: Knife Skills 1 covers all of this.
Level 3 · Three ways

Beetroot three ways: boiled, roasted, raw

1 hour 15 minutes3 portionscomparing methods on the same vegetable

One vegetable, three treatments: boiled (soft and mild), roasted (concentrated and sweet) and raw (crisp and earthy). Wear gloves.

Ingredients (3 portions)

  • 3 beetroots, scrubbed (about 500 g)
  • 1 tbsp olive oil
  • 1 tbsp red wine vinegar or lemon juice
  • 1 tbsp orange juice
  • 1 tbsp plain yoghurt
  • 1 tbsp chopped dill or mint
  • 1 tbsp walnuts, chopped (optional)
  • 1 pinch salt and pepper
  1. Boiled: put one whole, unpeeled beetroot in a pan of water and simmer for 40 to 50 minutes, until a knife slides in. Cool, then rub off the skin.
  2. Roasted: wrap one beetroot in foil with a little oil. Roast at 200°C (180°C fan) for 50 to 60 minutes. Cool and peel.
  3. Raw: peel one beetroot and slice or grate it very thin.
  4. Cut the cooked beetroots into wedges. Dress all three with the oil, vinegar, orange juice, salt and pepper. Serve on a plate with the yoghurt, dill and walnuts.
Staining
Beetroot stains: it dyes hands, boards and clothes. Wear gloves and an apron, use a plastic or well-washed board, and rinse stains with cold water at once. A pink wee after eating beetroot is harmless.
Level 3 · The awkward one

A whole artichoke

1 hour2 portionstrimming, boiling and eating a whole globe artichoke

A globe artichoke is a flower bud. You eat the soft base of each leaf and the heart. It takes a little practice, and the experience of eating it is half the fun.

Ingredients (2 portions)

  • 2 globe artichokes
  • 1 lemon, cut in half
  • 1 tbsp salt for the water
  • 3 tbsp melted butter or a vinaigrette, to dip
  1. Cut off the stem (leave a few cm if you want to peel and eat it) and slice about 2 cm off the top. Snip the sharp tips off the outer leaves with scissors. Rub every cut surface with lemon straight away, because it browns fast.
  2. Boil in plenty of salted water with half a lemon for 30 to 45 minutes, weighed down with a plate so it stays under. It is done when an outer leaf pulls away easily and the base is tender when pierced.
  3. Drain upside down. To eat, pull off each leaf, dip the base in butter, and scrape the soft flesh off with your teeth. Discard the rest of the leaf.
  4. When you reach the centre, scoop out and discard the hairy choke, then eat the heart with a knife and fork.
Never eat the choke
The hairy choke is not harmful but is unpleasant and fibrous. Discard it, and the tough outer parts of the leaves, as shown in the diagram.

Experiments

Experiment

Peel or scrub

Beetroot.

  1. Roast two beetroots in foil, one peeled first and one with its skin on. Peel the second after cooking.

Look for: The skin comes away easily after cooking, and the beetroot keeps more flavour and colour than one peeled raw. Compare the taste and the mess.

Experiment

Boiled, roasted or raw

Three ways.

  1. Taste the three beetroots from the recipe side by side with no dressing.

Look for: Boiled is mild and wet; roasted is sweet and concentrated; raw is crunchy and earthy. Write down which you would choose for which dish.

Experiment

Woody asparagus ends

Snap or cut.

  1. Snap one asparagus spear where it breaks naturally, and cut another about 3 cm from the base with a knife. Cook both ends and compare.

Look for: The snap point is where the woody part ends; cut a woody end and you'll chew a stringy mouthful. Snapping guides you to where the tender part begins.

Experiment

Stopping the browning

With and without lemon.

  1. Cut two slices of celeriac. Rub one with lemon and leave the other plain. Wait 15 minutes.

Look for: The plain slice turns brown while the lemon one stays pale. The browning is harmless but unappealing.

Tasting notes

What I triedMethod or amountWhat I sawWhat I thoughtWill I do it again?
Asparagus with lemon
Roast fennel
Celeriac steaks
Beetroot three ways
A whole artichoke
Peel vs scrub beetroot
Woody asparagus ends
Lemon vs plain celeriac

Troubleshooting

ProblemLikely causeWhat to do
Stringy asparagusWoody end left onSnap properly; peel thick spears
Grey, brown celeriacOxidisedRub with lemon; keep in acidulated water
Tough artichokeNot cooked long enoughKeep boiling until a leaf pulls out easily
Bland roast fennelUnderseasoned or steamedDry the wedges, space them out, add lemon at the end
Pink everythingBeetroot juiceGloves, cold water straight away, and cut it last
Mushy asparagusOvercookedCook 3 to 5 minutes and plunge into cold water if cooking ahead
Knives, staining and storage
Knife safety: cut on a stable board (a damp cloth underneath), tuck your guiding fingertips back (the claw), and cut round or slippery vegetables on a flat face so they can't roll. A sharp knife is safer than a blunt one. Never catch a falling knife. Cooking Skills: Knife Skills 1 covers all of this.

Beetroot stains: it dyes hands, boards and clothes. Wear gloves and an apron, use a plastic or well-washed board, and rinse stains with cold water at once. A pink wee after eating beetroot is harmless.

Leftovers: cool cooked vegetables quickly (within 1 to 2 hours), keep them covered in the fridge, and eat within 2 days. Reheat until steaming hot all the way through, and only once.
Checkpoint: can you do this now?
  • I can trim asparagus, fennel and celeriac.
  • I can stop cut vegetables browning.
  • I can cook beetroot and peel it afterwards.
  • I can prepare and eat a whole artichoke.
  • I know how to buy and store each of them.
Next chapter
Cooking Skills: Vegetables 2, chapter 9 is A Vegetable Feast: planning and timing a large vegetarian meal.