Sautéing and Pan-Frying
Cooking Skills: Vegetables 1
Chapter 5 · Sautéing and Pan-Frying
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The basics
Sautéing (from the French sauter, 'to jump') means cooking vegetables in a little fat in an open pan, over a fairly high heat, until they brown. Pan-frying is the same idea with a bit more fat or bigger pieces. The browning is where the flavour comes from, and the enemy of browning is moisture.
Why vegetables stew instead of brown
Vegetables are 80% to 95% water. In a hot pan, that water comes out as steam. If the pan is crowded or the heat is low, the water can't escape and the vegetables simmer in their own liquid: grey and soft, not golden. To brown: enough heat, enough room, and leave them alone.
The rules
- Preheat the pan for a minute before adding oil.
- One layer, with room between pieces. Cook in batches rather than crowd.
- Dry vegetables brown. Pat them dry after washing.
- Don't stir all the time. Leave them for a minute or two to form a crust, then turn.
- Pieces of even size, so they cook together.
- Salt wet vegetables late (mushrooms, courgettes), because salt draws out water.
- Butter burns, so mix it with oil or add it near the end. Oil alone tolerates more heat.
- Add garlic late (the last 30 seconds): it burns and turns bitter.
Which pan?
| Pan | Good for | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Heavy stainless steel | Browning, a crust, building flavour in the pan | Preheat well; food sticks at first, then releases when browned |
| Cast iron | Searing, keeping heat; wedges of cabbage or leeks | Heavy and slow to heat; needs care to avoid rust; acidic foods can strip its seasoning |
| Non-stick | Delicate or sticky foods, easy cleaning | Use medium heat, not very high; avoid metal utensils; browns less |
Sauté, stir-fry or pan-fry?
| Method | Heat | Pieces | Movement |
|---|---|---|---|
| Stir-fry | Very high | Small | Constant |
| Sauté | Medium-high | Even, small to medium | Tossed every minute or so |
| Pan-fry | Medium-high, then lower | Thicker slices or wedges | Left alone, turned once |
Try it
Garlic mushrooms
Mushrooms are mostly water, which is why they go grey and rubbery if you crowd or salt them too soon. Give them space and heat.
Ingredients (2 portions)
- 250 g mushrooms (button, chestnut or a mix)
- 15 g butter
- 1 tbsp oil
- 2 garlic cloves, finely sliced
- 1 tbsp chopped parsley
- 1 tsp lemon juice
- 1 pinch salt and pepper
- Wipe the mushrooms clean with a damp cloth or brush off the dirt (don't soak them, as they soak up water). Cut large ones into thick slices or quarters.
- Heat the oil in a large frying pan over a medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms in one layer (in two batches if needed) and leave them for 2 minutes without stirring, until the underside is golden.
- Toss, cook for 3 to 4 minutes more until browned, then add the butter and garlic for the last 30 seconds.
- Season, add the lemon juice and parsley and serve on toast or as a side.
Pan-fried courgettes and aubergine
Aubergine soaks up oil like a sponge, while courgette gives off water. Both brown best when you cook them separately.
Ingredients (2 portions)
- 2 courgettes, in 1 cm slices
- 1 small aubergine, in 2 cm cubes
- 2 tbsp oil
- 1 garlic clove, sliced
- 1 pinch salt, pepper and dried oregano
- Heat 1 tablespoon of oil in a large pan over a medium-high heat. Add the courgette slices in a single layer and cook for 3 to 4 minutes a side until golden. Lift out.
- Add the remaining oil and the aubergine. Cook, turning every minute or two, for 8 to 10 minutes, until soft and golden. A splash of water in the pan helps the aubergine soften without more oil.
- Return the courgettes with the garlic and cook for 1 minute. Season with salt, pepper and oregano.
Wilted spinach or greens with garlic
Spinach shrinks to a fraction of its volume. 200 g of raw leaves makes about one portion of cooked.
Ingredients (2 portions)
- 200 g spinach or spring greens
- 1 tbsp olive oil
- 1 garlic clove, sliced
- 1 pinch chilli flakes (optional)
- 1 tsp lemon juice
- 1 pinch salt
- Wash the leaves well and shake off most of the water (a little clinging water is useful).
- Warm the oil with the garlic and chilli over a medium heat for 30 seconds, without browning.
- Add the leaves in handfuls, turning with tongs, for 1 to 3 minutes, until wilted. Tougher greens take 3 to 5 minutes.
- Tip into a colander and press out the excess liquid, then season and add lemon juice.
Pan-fried cabbage or leeks
Thick pieces need two stages: brown the outside in the pan, then add a little water and cover so the middle softens.
Ingredients (2 portions)
- ½ small green or white cabbage, cut in 2 cm wedges
- 2 leeks, trimmed and washed
- 20 g butter
- 1 tbsp oil
- 1 tsp cider vinegar
- 1 pinch salt and pepper
- Cut the leeks in half lengthways and wash well under running water to get rid of grit, then slice into thick pieces or leave in halves.
- Heat the oil and half the butter in a large pan on medium-high. Add the cabbage wedges (cut side down) and leeks and brown for 4 to 5 minutes, without moving them.
- Turn, add a splash of water (3 to 4 tablespoons), cover, and cook on a low heat for 8 to 10 minutes, until tender.
- Uncover, let any water evaporate, then add the remaining butter, vinegar, salt and pepper.
Experiments
Crowded or spaced pan
The mushroom test.
- Cook 250 g of mushrooms in a small pan (crowded) and 250 g in a large pan or in two batches (spaced), for 8 minutes each.
Look for: The crowded pan is full of liquid and the mushrooms are grey; the spaced pan is dry and golden.
Salt early or late
Courgette slices.
- Salt one batch of courgette slices and leave them for 10 minutes. Leave another unsalted. Pat both dry and fry the same way.
Look for: The salted batch leaks water first, then browns more easily. The unsalted batch releases water in the pan. Note which browns better.
Pan type
Steel, cast iron and non-stick.
- Fry the same sliced onion or courgette in each type of pan you have, at the same heat, for the same time.
Look for: Compare browning, sticking, and how much oil each needs.
Stir or leave
Stirring versus waiting.
- Fry two batches of cabbage wedges: one stirred constantly, one left for 4 minutes before turning.
Look for: The unstirred batch gets a deep golden crust on the cut side. The stirred one is pale.
Tasting notes
| What I tried | Method or amount | What I saw | What I thought | Will I do it again? |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Garlic mushrooms | ||||
| Courgettes and aubergine | ||||
| Wilted greens | ||||
| Pan-fried cabbage or leeks | ||||
| Crowded vs spaced | ||||
| Salt early vs late | ||||
| Pan type | ||||
| Stir vs leave |
Troubleshooting
| Problem | Likely cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Grey, watery vegetables | Crowded pan, low heat, or salted too soon | Cook in batches; preheat; salt later |
| Burnt outside, raw inside | Pan too hot, pieces too thick | Lower the heat, cover with a splash of water |
| Sticking | Not preheated, or turned too soon | Wait: food releases when browned |
| Greasy aubergine | It absorbs oil | Use less oil; add a splash of water and cover |
| Bitter garlic | Burnt | Add late; start again if it blackens |
Knife safety: cut on a stable board (a damp cloth underneath), tuck your guiding fingertips back (the claw), and cut round or slippery vegetables on a flat face so they can't roll. A sharp knife is safer than a blunt one. Never catch a falling knife. Cooking Skills: Knife Skills 1 covers all of this.
Leftovers: cool cooked vegetables quickly (within 1 to 2 hours), keep them covered in the fridge, and eat within 2 days. Reheat until steaming hot all the way through, and only once.
- I preheat the pan and cook in a single layer.
- I leave vegetables alone long enough to brown.
- I know when to salt and when to add garlic.
- I can brown thick pieces and finish them with a splash of water.
- I can choose the right pan.