Chutneys and Pickled Sauces

Cooking Skills: Sauces 2

Chapter 6 · Chutneys and Pickled Sauces

Skill goal
Cook fruit and vegetables slowly with vinegar and sugar into a thick, sweet-sharp sauce that keeps.

Shopping list for this chapter

The basics

A chutney is fruit or vegetables cooked slowly with vinegar and sugar until thick and jammy. The vinegar and sugar do two jobs: they give the sweet-sharp taste and they preserve the sauce. Chutneys are made to be stored and are better after a few days, when the sharp vinegar smell mellows.

The cook's skill is knowing when it is done: not by time but by the trail test. Drag a spoon across the bottom of the pan; when the trail stays open for a second and does not fill with liquid, the chutney is thick enough. Pickling vegetables in brine and vinegar is in Cooking Skills: Vegetables 2, chapter 6. The recipes here are small-batch refrigerator chutneys, which is the safest approach for a beginner.

Chop Fruit and veg, small and even Soften Onion and spices in a little oil Simmer Vinegar and sugar, 30 to 45 minutes Test A spoon leaves a clear trail Jar Hot into clean jars, then chill
Figure 6. From chopping to jar: the trail test tells you when a chutney is done.

The method

  • Chop small and evenly, so everything cooks down at the same rate.
  • Soften the onion and spices first, to take away the raw taste.
  • Add vinegar and sugar and simmer gently, uncovered, stirring more often towards the end.
  • Do the trail test: drag a spoon across the pan; it should leave a clear line that does not flood.
  • Pour into hot, clean jars, cool, then store in the fridge. Let it mature for a few days before eating.
ChutneyMain fruit or vegetableCooking time (approximate)Fridge life
Quick tomato chutneyTomato40 minutesAbout 4 weeks
Mango chutneyFirm mango45 minutesAbout 4 weeks
Apple and onion chutneyApple, onion50 minutesAbout 4 weeks
Spiced plum saucePlum35 minutesAbout 3 weeks
Hot sugar, vinegar fumes and jars
Hot sugar: boiling sugar and fruit are much hotter than boiling water and stick to skin like glue. Use a deep pan, a long spoon and oven gloves, stand back when stirring, and never taste straight from the spoon until it has cooled.

Vinegar fumes: boiling vinegar gives off sharp fumes that sting eyes and throat. Open a window, switch on the extractor, and keep your face back when you stir.

Jars and storing: wash jars and lids in hot soapy water, rinse and dry them, then fill while the sauce is hot and cool before chilling. Keep in the fridge, label with the date and use within the time given. If a sauce smells off, looks fizzy or has mould, throw it away.

Try it

Level 1 · Start here

A quick tomato chutney

55 minutesabout 400 mlreducing a tomato mixture until thick

The simplest chutney: tomatoes, onion, spices, vinegar and sugar. Serve it with cheese, cold meat, eggs and curry. It is rich, tangy and sweet.

Ingredients (about 400 ml)

  • 500 g ripe tomatoes, chopped
  • 1 onion, finely chopped
  • 2 garlic cloves, crushed
  • 1 tbsp grated fresh ginger
  • 100 g brown sugar
  • 100 ml cider vinegar
  • 1 tsp mustard seeds
  • ½ tsp chilli flakes
  • 1 tsp flaked sea salt
  1. Put everything in a heavy-based pan and heat gently, stirring, until the sugar dissolves.
  2. Simmer uncovered for 35 to 40 minutes, stirring more often towards the end, until thick and glossy.
  3. Do the trail test, then spoon into a hot, clean jar, cool, label and chill. Eat after 2 days; use within about 4 weeks.
Hot sugar, vinegar fumes, allergens and jars
Hot sugar: boiling sugar and fruit are much hotter than boiling water and stick to skin like glue. Use a deep pan, a long spoon and oven gloves, stand back when stirring, and never taste straight from the spoon until it has cooled.

Allergens: contains mustard and sulphites (vinegar).

Jars and storing: wash jars and lids in hot soapy water, rinse and dry them, then fill while the sauce is hot and cool before chilling. Keep in the fridge, label with the date and use within the time given. If a sauce smells off, looks fizzy or has mould, throw it away.
Level 2 · Fruit

Mango chutney

1 hourabout 500 mla firm fruit that holds its shape

Use firm, slightly underripe mangoes, which keep their pieces. Fully ripe mango turns to mush. It is the classic curry accompaniment and also good with cheese and cold chicken.

Ingredients (about 500 ml)

  • 2 firm mangoes, peeled and chopped
  • 1 onion, finely chopped
  • 1 tbsp grated fresh ginger
  • 2 garlic cloves, crushed
  • 150 g sugar
  • 150 ml cider vinegar
  • 1 tsp chilli flakes
  • 1 tsp flaked sea salt
  1. Put everything in a heavy pan and stir over a low heat until the sugar dissolves.
  2. Simmer for 40 to 45 minutes, stirring now and then, until thick and sticky.
  3. Trail test, jar while hot, cool and chill. Eat after 3 days; use within about 4 weeks.
Hot sugar, vinegar fumes and jars
Hot sugar: boiling sugar and fruit are much hotter than boiling water and stick to skin like glue. Use a deep pan, a long spoon and oven gloves, stand back when stirring, and never taste straight from the spoon until it has cooled.

Jars and storing: wash jars and lids in hot soapy water, rinse and dry them, then fill while the sauce is hot and cool before chilling. Keep in the fridge, label with the date and use within the time given. If a sauce smells off, looks fizzy or has mould, throw it away.
Level 2 · Autumn

Apple and onion chutney

1 hour 10 minutesabout 600 mlbalancing sweet fruit and savoury onion

A good all-rounder for cheese sandwiches and ploughman's lunches. Cooking apples collapse; eating apples keep some shape, so a mix gives both. Raisins add sweetness and body.

Ingredients (about 600 ml)

  • 500 g apples, peeled and chopped
  • 3 onions, finely chopped
  • 100 g raisins
  • 150 g brown sugar
  • 200 ml malt or cider vinegar
  • 1 tsp mixed spice
  • 1 tbsp grated fresh ginger
  • 1 tsp flaked sea salt
  1. Put everything in a heavy pan and stir over a low heat until the sugar dissolves.
  2. Simmer for 45 to 50 minutes, stirring regularly, until thick.
  3. Trail test, jar while hot, cool and chill. It tastes best after a week; use within about 4 weeks.
Hot sugar, vinegar fumes and jars
Hot sugar: boiling sugar and fruit are much hotter than boiling water and stick to skin like glue. Use a deep pan, a long spoon and oven gloves, stand back when stirring, and never taste straight from the spoon until it has cooled.

Jars and storing: wash jars and lids in hot soapy water, rinse and dry them, then fill while the sauce is hot and cool before chilling. Keep in the fridge, label with the date and use within the time given. If a sauce smells off, looks fizzy or has mould, throw it away.
Level 3 · Smooth

A spiced plum sauce

50 minutesabout 400 mlsieving a fruit sauce for a smooth finish

A smooth, glossy sweet-sour sauce, like the one served with crispy duck. It is cooked, blended and sieved for a silky texture. Try it with roast pork, spring rolls and chicken.

Ingredients (about 400 ml)

  • 500 g ripe plums, stoned and chopped
  • 1 small onion, chopped
  • 2 garlic cloves, crushed
  • 1 tbsp grated fresh ginger
  • 100 g brown sugar
  • 100 ml cider vinegar
  • 2 tbsp soy sauce
  • 1 tsp Chinese five-spice
  1. Put everything in a pan, stir over a low heat until the sugar dissolves, and simmer for 25 to 30 minutes until the plums are very soft.
  2. Let it cool for 10 minutes, then blend until smooth and push it through a sieve.
  3. Return to the pan and simmer for 5 to 8 minutes until it coats a spoon. Cool, jar and chill; use within about 3 weeks.
Hot sugar, blending, allergens and jars
Hot sugar: boiling sugar and fruit are much hotter than boiling water and stick to skin like glue. Use a deep pan, a long spoon and oven gloves, stand back when stirring, and never taste straight from the spoon until it has cooled.

Blending hot liquids: hot liquid expands in a sealed blender and can blow the lid off and scald you. Let it cool for a few minutes, fill the jug no more than half, hold a folded cloth over the lid, and start on low. A stick blender in a deep pan avoids the problem.

Allergens: contains soy and wheat (soy sauce) and sulphites.

Jars and storing: wash jars and lids in hot soapy water, rinse and dry them, then fill while the sauce is hot and cool before chilling. Keep in the fridge, label with the date and use within the time given. If a sauce smells off, looks fizzy or has mould, throw it away.

Experiments

Experiment

Simmer time

Thick and thin.

  1. Take a spoonful of tomato chutney at 20, 30 and 40 minutes and cool each on a saucer.

Look for: The early spoonfuls are runny; the last one is jammy. Chutney thickens a lot as it cools, so stop when the trail test passes.

Experiment

Brown or white sugar

Flavour and colour.

  1. Make two small batches, one with brown sugar and one with white.

Look for: Brown sugar gives a darker colour and toffee note. White is cleaner and lighter. Brown suits tomato and apple chutneys.

Experiment

Spices whole or ground

Texture.

  1. Make half a batch with whole mustard seeds and half with ground mustard.

Look for: Whole seeds soften and pop in the mouth; ground spice blends in and gives more heat. Whole seeds are more traditional.

Experiment

Day 1 and week 1

Maturing.

  1. Taste a chutney the day it is made and again after a week in the fridge.

Look for: After a week the vinegar bite has softened and the flavours have joined. Chutneys are made ahead for a reason.

Tasting notes

What I triedMethod or amountWhat I sawWhat I thoughtWill I do it again?
Tomato chutney
Mango chutney
Apple and onion chutney
Spiced plum sauce
Simmer time
Brown or white sugar
Spices whole or ground
Day 1 and week 1

Troubleshooting

ProblemLikely causeWhat to do
Too runnyNot simmered long enoughSimmer for longer, stirring, until the trail test passes
Too sharpToo much vinegarAdd a little sugar and let it mature for a few days
Burnt on the bottomHeat too high, not stirredDo not scrape; pour into a clean pan and taste. If it is bitter, start again
Too sweetToo much sugarAdd a splash of vinegar and some salt
Mould on topDirty jar or kept too longThrow it away; sterilise jars next time and keep in the fridge
Too thick or hardOver-cookedStir in a little water or vinegar when reheating
Hot sugar, jars and storing
Hot sugar: boiling sugar and fruit are much hotter than boiling water and stick to skin like glue. Use a deep pan, a long spoon and oven gloves, stand back when stirring, and never taste straight from the spoon until it has cooled.

Jars and storing: wash jars and lids in hot soapy water, rinse and dry them, then fill while the sauce is hot and cool before chilling. Keep in the fridge, label with the date and use within the time given. If a sauce smells off, looks fizzy or has mould, throw it away.

Keeping sauces: cool a sauce quickly in a shallow container within 1 to 2 hours, press cling film onto the surface to stop a skin forming, chill and use within about 2 days. Reheat until steaming hot, stirring. Milk and cream sauces can split when frozen, so freeze other sauces instead.
Checkpoint: can you do this now?
  • I can cook a chutney until it passes the trail test.
  • I can balance sweet and sharp.
  • I can jar chutney cleanly and store it in the fridge.
  • I know chutney improves after a few days.
  • I can fix a runny or over-sharp chutney.
Next chapter
Cooking Skills: Sauces 2, chapter 7 is Marinades, Rubs and Glazes: how acid, salt, oil and time change meat.