Asian Sauces and Glazes

Cooking Skills: Sauces 2

Chapter 4 · Asian Sauces and Glazes

Skill goal
Balance salty, sweet, sour and hot flavours in a sauce, and thicken it with cornflour so it clings.

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The basics

Asian sauces are built on balance. Most use four tastes: salty (soy sauce), sweet (sugar or honey), sour (rice vinegar or lime) and hot (chilli, ginger or pepper), plus savoury aromatics such as garlic and spring onion. If a sauce tastes flat, it usually needs more of one of the four; if it tastes harsh, it needs more of the opposite. Taste, adjust a little, and taste again.

Most are thickened with cornflour mixed with cold water, which turns the sauce glossy and makes it cling to food (see Cooking Skills: Sauces 1, chapter 1). Sesame, peanut and chilli noodle sauces are in Cooking Skills: Noodles 1, chapter 5, and stir-fried noodles in chapter 2 of that course; here we make the sauces on their own, to use with any meat, fish, tofu or vegetables.

Salty Soy sauce, fish sauce Sweet Sugar, honey, ketchup Sour Rice vinegar, lime, lemon Hot Chilli, ginger, pepper Savoury Garlic, spring onion, sesame
Figure 4. Taste for four things: salty, sweet, sour and hot, then add savoury depth.

The method

  • Mix the sauce before you start cooking, because stir-fries and glazes move fast.
  • Start with the salty and sweet, then add acid and heat a little at a time.
  • Mix cornflour with cold water first (never straight into hot liquid) and add it to a simmering sauce.
  • Simmer for 1 to 2 minutes until glossy and thick; the sauce thickens more as it cools.
  • Add toasted sesame oil and fresh herbs at the end, off the heat, so the aroma stays.
SauceMain tastesThickened withGoes with
Teriyaki-style glazeSalty and sweetReduction or cornflourSalmon, chicken, tofu
Sweet chilli sauceSweet, sour and hotCornflourSpring rolls, chicken, prawns
Stir-fry sauceSalty, savouryCornflourVegetables, beef, noodles
Black bean sauceSalty, earthy, savouryCornflourBeef, fish, peppers
Hot sugar, chilli and allergens
Hot sugar: boiling sugar and fruit are much hotter than boiling water and stick to skin like glue. Use a deep pan, a long spoon and oven gloves, stand back when stirring, and never taste straight from the spoon until it has cooled.

Chilli and spices: chilli can sting skin and eyes, so wash your hands well after chopping it and don't touch your face. Add heat in small steps, and keep portions for children mild.

Allergens: soy and wheat (soy sauce), shellfish (oyster sauce), sesame, and fish (fish sauce) are allergens, and many Asian sauces contain several. Tamari or coconut aminos can replace soy sauce for a gluten-free version; check labels.

Try it

Level 1 · Start here

A teriyaki-style glaze

10 minutes4 portionsa salty-sweet reduction

Real teriyaki uses mirin, a sweet rice wine; here rice vinegar and honey give a similar flavour with no alcohol. Brush it on salmon, chicken or tofu near the end of cooking, or simmer food in it.

Ingredients (4 portions)

  • 4 tbsp soy sauce
  • 2 tbsp honey
  • 1 tbsp rice vinegar
  • 1 tbsp grated fresh ginger
  • 1 garlic clove, grated
  • 100 ml water
  • 2 tsp cornflour
  • 1 tbsp cold water
  1. Put the soy sauce, honey, vinegar, ginger, garlic and 100 ml water in a small pan and heat until the honey dissolves.
  2. Mix the cornflour with the cold water, stir it in and simmer for 1 to 2 minutes until glossy.
  3. Taste: add a splash of vinegar if too sweet, or honey if too salty. Brush on food in the last minutes of cooking.
Hot sugar, burning and allergens
Hot sugar: boiling sugar and fruit are much hotter than boiling water and stick to skin like glue. Use a deep pan, a long spoon and oven gloves, stand back when stirring, and never taste straight from the spoon until it has cooled.

Burning: honey and soy burn quickly under a grill or in a hot pan, so brush the glaze on late.

Allergens: contains soy and wheat.
Level 2 · Sweet-sharp

Sweet chilli sauce

25 minutes8 portions (about 250 ml)cooking chilli, sugar and vinegar into a syrup

A glossy red dipping sauce that is easy to make and far fresher than the shop-bought kind. Deseed the chillies for a milder sauce. Be careful when handling the hot syrup.

Ingredients (8 portions)

  • 3 large red chillies, deseeded and finely chopped
  • 3 garlic cloves, grated
  • 150 ml rice vinegar
  • 100 g caster sugar
  • 100 ml water
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 1 tbsp cornflour
  • 2 tbsp cold water
  1. Put the chillies, garlic, vinegar, sugar, 100 ml water and salt in a pan, stir over a low heat until the sugar dissolves, then simmer for 10 minutes.
  2. Mix the cornflour with the cold water and stir it in. Simmer for 2 minutes until it turns clear and glossy.
  3. Cool completely; it thickens as it cools. Store in a clean jar in the fridge for up to about 2 weeks.
Hot sugar, chilli and storing
Hot sugar: boiling sugar and fruit are much hotter than boiling water and stick to skin like glue. Use a deep pan, a long spoon and oven gloves, stand back when stirring, and never taste straight from the spoon until it has cooled.

Chilli and spices: chilli can sting skin and eyes, so wash your hands well after chopping it and don't touch your face. Add heat in small steps, and keep portions for children mild.

Jars and storing: wash jars and lids in hot soapy water, rinse and dry them, then fill while the sauce is hot and cool before chilling. Keep in the fridge, label with the date and use within the time given. If a sauce smells off, looks fizzy or has mould, throw it away.
Level 2 · Stir-fry

An all-purpose stir-fry sauce

5 minutes4 portionsmixing a sauce before cooking

Mix this before you start, and pour it into the hot wok in the last minute. It works with beef and peppers, chicken and broccoli, tofu or just vegetables. Taste and adjust, but do not add salt until you taste the cooked dish.

Ingredients (4 portions)

  • 3 tbsp soy sauce
  • 1 tbsp oyster sauce (or extra soy sauce)
  • 1 tbsp rice vinegar
  • 1 tsp sugar
  • 1 tsp cornflour
  • 100 ml low-salt chicken or vegetable stock
  • 1 tsp toasted sesame oil
  1. Stir everything except the sesame oil in a jug until the cornflour is dissolved.
  2. Stir-fry your meat and vegetables, then pour in the sauce and cook for 1 to 2 minutes until glossy.
  3. Take off the heat, stir in the sesame oil, and taste.
Hot wok and allergens
Hot pan and hot oil: searing and stir-frying use very high heat and spitting oil. Dry the beef first, keep everything ready before you start, use a long spoon and keep children away from the hob.

Allergens: contains soy and wheat, shellfish (oyster sauce) and sesame.
Level 3 · Fermented

A black bean sauce

15 minutes4 portionsbuilding a sauce on a fermented ingredient

Black bean sauce has a deep, salty, earthy taste that comes from fermented soy beans. Jarred black bean sauce is the easy route; rinsed fermented black beans are stronger and fresher. Because both are salty, go carefully with extra soy sauce.

Ingredients (4 portions)

  • 1 tbsp sunflower or rapeseed oil
  • 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
  • 1 tbsp grated fresh ginger
  • 2 tbsp jarred black bean sauce, or fermented black beans rinsed and chopped
  • 150 ml low-salt stock
  • 1 tsp sugar
  • 2 tsp cornflour
  • 1 tbsp cold water
  • 2 spring onions, sliced
  1. Heat the oil, then fry the garlic, ginger and black bean for 30 seconds, stirring, without burning.
  2. Add the stock and sugar and simmer for 3 minutes.
  3. Stir in the cornflour mixed with the water and simmer for 1 minute. Add the spring onions, taste, and add soy sauce only if needed.
Hot oil and allergens
Hot pan and hot oil: searing and stir-frying use very high heat and spitting oil. Dry the beef first, keep everything ready before you start, use a long spoon and keep children away from the hob.

Allergens: contains soy and often wheat; fermented black beans are very salty.

Experiments

Experiment

Honey or sugar

Flavour of the sweetener.

  1. Make two small batches of teriyaki glaze, one with honey and one with the same amount of sugar.

Look for: Honey is floral and slightly thicker and burns faster. Sugar is cleaner. Both work.

Experiment

Cornflour or reduction

Gloss and body.

  1. Thicken one glaze with cornflour and reduce another by simmering for 8 minutes.

Look for: The cornflour sauce is glossy and clear; the reduced sauce is darker and more intense but less thick.

Experiment

Rice or cider vinegar

Gentle and fruity.

  1. Make two stir-fry sauces, one with rice vinegar and one with cider vinegar, and taste.

Look for: Rice vinegar is milder and slightly sweet; cider vinegar is sharper and fruitier. Either works, but taste and adjust.

Experiment

Fresh or dried ginger

Fragrance.

  1. Make two glazes, one with fresh grated ginger and one with a quarter of the amount of ground ginger.

Look for: Fresh ginger is bright and zingy; ground ginger is warmer and duller. Fresh is better in these sauces.

Tasting notes

What I triedMethod or amountWhat I sawWhat I thoughtWill I do it again?
Teriyaki-style glaze
Sweet chilli sauce
Stir-fry sauce
Black bean sauce
Honey or sugar
Cornflour or reduction
Rice or cider vinegar
Fresh or dried ginger

Troubleshooting

ProblemLikely causeWhat to do
Too saltyToo much soy sauceAdd water, a little sugar or rice vinegar
Too sweetToo much sugar or honeyAdd vinegar or lime juice
Lumpy sauceCornflour added without mixing, or into boiling liquidAlways mix with cold water first; whisk, or strain
Sauce too thinNot simmered long enoughSimmer for a further minute, or add a little more cornflour mixed with water
Bitter garlic or gingerBurntFry for only 30 seconds, and start again
Flat or dullMissing acidAdd a squeeze of lime or a splash of rice vinegar
Hot sugar, hot oil and leftovers
Hot sugar: boiling sugar and fruit are much hotter than boiling water and stick to skin like glue. Use a deep pan, a long spoon and oven gloves, stand back when stirring, and never taste straight from the spoon until it has cooled.

Hot pan and hot oil: searing and stir-frying use very high heat and spitting oil. Dry the beef first, keep everything ready before you start, use a long spoon and keep children away from the hob.

Keeping sauces: cool a sauce quickly in a shallow container within 1 to 2 hours, press cling film onto the surface to stop a skin forming, chill and use within about 2 days. Reheat until steaming hot, stirring. Milk and cream sauces can split when frozen, so freeze other sauces instead.
Checkpoint: can you do this now?
  • I can balance salty, sweet, sour and hot.
  • I can thicken a sauce with cornflour without lumps.
  • I can make a glaze and brush it on at the right time.
  • I can mix a stir-fry sauce before I start cooking.
  • I can work with salty fermented ingredients.
Next chapter
Cooking Skills: Sauces 2, chapter 5 is Salsas and Fresh Sauces: chopping and dressing raw ingredients.