Pulses as the Main Event
Cooking Skills: Pulses and Beans 1
Chapter 7 · Pulses as the Main Event
Skill goal
Bind, brown and season pulses so they stand in for meat in satisfying main meals.
Shopping list for this chapter
The basics
Pulses can be the centre of the plate, not only a side. The difficulty is texture: they are soft and wet and fall apart. The answer is the burger rule: mash about half (it acts as glue), leave the rest whole for texture, add a binder (breadcrumbs, oats or an egg), drive off excess water, chill the mix for 30 minutes and cook it over a medium heat so the outside browns before it breaks.
Meat gives savoury depth that pulses lack, so replace it with umami: browned mushrooms, tomato paste, soy sauce and smoked paprika. Browning matters. Lentils make a good mince substitute for sauces and pies (see Cooking Skills: Beef and Steak 1, chapter 6 for the meat versions of bolognese and cottage pie, and Cooking Skills: Pasta 1, chapter 6 for pasta sauces).
The method
- Mash about half the pulses and leave the rest whole.
- Add a binder and flavourings, and pat the mix dry if it is wet.
- Chill for at least 30 minutes, then shape firmly.
- Cook over a medium heat, turning only once, so a crust forms.
- Add umami (mushrooms, tomato paste, soy) to replace the savoury depth of meat.
| Dish | Pulse | Binder or base | Time (approximate) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Black bean burgers | Black beans | Oats, egg, breadcrumbs | 35 minutes plus chilling |
| Chickpea fritters | Chickpeas | Flour, egg, spring onion | 25 minutes |
| Lentil bolognese | Green or brown lentils | Mushroom, tomato, carrot | 50 minutes |
| Lentil and mushroom cottage pie | Green or brown lentils | Mushroom, mash topping | 1 hour 15 minutes |
Hot pan, egg, hot oven and allergens
Hot pan and hot oil: roasting tins and frying pans for browning are very hot and fat spits. Use dry oven gloves, pull the shelf out a little before lifting a tray, put hot things on a heatproof surface and keep children away.Egg as a binder: eggs in burgers and fritters are cooked all the way through, so they are safe. Wash your hands after cracking, and don't taste the raw mixture. Young children, pregnant women and the elderly should have burgers cooked until firm and hot in the middle.
Hot oven and heavy dishes: a casserole or baking dish of bean stew is heavy and bubbling hot. Use dry oven gloves, pull the shelf out before lifting, put the dish on a heatproof surface, and open foil away from your face because the steam scalds.
Allergens in pulses: soya, peanuts and lupin are legumes and major allergens, and sesame (in tahini) is one too. Check labels on tinned pulses, flours and sauces, tell guests what is in a dish, and use separate pans and spoons if someone is allergic. Celery is in many stock cubes.
Try it
Level 1 · Start here
Chickpea fritters
The fastest of the four: tinned chickpeas mashed roughly with spring onion, spices, an egg and a little flour, spooned into a hot pan. Serve with yogurt, salad or in a wrap. Make the fritters small, because they are fragile.
Ingredients (4 portions)
- 2 tins of chickpeas (400 g each), drained and rinsed
- 4 spring onions, finely sliced
- 1 tsp ground cumin
- 1 egg
- 4 tbsp plain flour
- 3 tbsp chopped coriander
- 3 tbsp rapeseed oil
- 1 lemon, in wedges
- Mash the chickpeas roughly, leaving some whole. Mix in the spring onions, cumin, egg, flour, coriander and salt.
- Heat the oil in a frying pan over a medium heat. Spoon in the mixture in 12 small mounds and flatten.
- Cook for 3 to 4 minutes a side until golden and set. Serve with lemon.
Hot pan, egg and allergens
Hot pan and hot oil: roasting tins and frying pans for browning are very hot and fat spits. Use dry oven gloves, pull the shelf out a little before lifting a tray, put hot things on a heatproof surface and keep children away.Egg as a binder: eggs in burgers and fritters are cooked all the way through, so they are safe. Wash your hands after cracking, and don't taste the raw mixture. Young children, pregnant women and the elderly should have burgers cooked until firm and hot in the middle.
Tinned pulses: tinned pulses are cooked and ready to eat once drained and rinsed, which also washes off much of the salt. Check the use-by date, never use tins that are bulging or leaking, and keep opened tins in a covered container in the fridge for up to 2 days rather than in the tin.
Allergens: contains egg and gluten.
Level 2 · Burger
Black bean burgers
The classic veggie burger. Mash half the black beans, fold in the rest with oats, cumin, smoked paprika and an egg, chill hard and cook gently. A cooked burger should be firm and hot in the middle. Serve in a bun with salsa and yogurt.
Ingredients (4 portions)
- 2 tins of black beans (400 g each), drained, rinsed and patted dry
- 1 small onion, finely chopped
- 2 garlic cloves, grated
- 60 g rolled oats
- 1 tsp ground cumin
- 1 tsp smoked paprika
- 1 egg
- 2 tbsp rapeseed oil
- 4 burger buns
- Soften the onion in 1 tbsp oil for 6 minutes, add the garlic and spices. Mash half the beans, mix with the rest, the onion, oats and egg, and season.
- Shape into 4 patties and chill for 30 minutes.
- Fry in the remaining oil over a medium heat for 4 minutes a side until crisp and hot in the middle. Serve in buns.
Hot pan, egg and allergens
Hot pan and hot oil: roasting tins and frying pans for browning are very hot and fat spits. Use dry oven gloves, pull the shelf out a little before lifting a tray, put hot things on a heatproof surface and keep children away.Egg as a binder: eggs in burgers and fritters are cooked all the way through, so they are safe. Wash your hands after cracking, and don't taste the raw mixture. Young children, pregnant women and the elderly should have burgers cooked until firm and hot in the middle.
Tinned pulses: tinned pulses are cooked and ready to eat once drained and rinsed, which also washes off much of the salt. Check the use-by date, never use tins that are bulging or leaking, and keep opened tins in a covered container in the fridge for up to 2 days rather than in the tin.
Allergens: contains egg and gluten (oats and buns).
Level 2 · Sauce
A lentil bolognese
Green or brown lentils stand in for mince, with mushrooms, carrot and a spoon of soy for depth. Brown the mushrooms hard, fry the tomato paste, and simmer until thick. Serve over spaghetti. It freezes well.
Ingredients (4 portions)
- 2 tbsp rapeseed oil
- 250 g chestnut mushrooms, finely chopped
- 1 onion, finely chopped
- 1 carrot, finely diced
- 3 garlic cloves, grated
- 2 tbsp tomato paste
- 400 g tin of chopped tomatoes
- 200 g green or brown lentils, rinsed
- 600 ml stock, unsalted
- 1 tbsp soy sauce
- 1 tsp dried oregano
- 300 g dried spaghetti
- Brown the mushrooms in the oil over a high heat for 8 minutes until dark. Add the onion and carrot for 8 minutes, then the garlic and tomato paste for 2 minutes.
- Add the tomatoes, lentils, stock, soy sauce and oregano and simmer, lid ajar, for 30 to 35 minutes until the lentils are tender and the sauce is thick.
- Cook the spaghetti as the packet says, drain, and serve with the sauce.
Hot pan, thick sauce and allergens
Hot pan and hot oil: roasting tins and frying pans for browning are very hot and fat spits. Use dry oven gloves, pull the shelf out a little before lifting a tray, put hot things on a heatproof surface and keep children away.Thick soups catch and spit: a thick soup sticks to the base of the pan and blobs and spits when it bubbles. Stir often, keep the heat low, use a pan with a heavy base and a long spoon, and keep your face back.
Allergens in pulses: soya, peanuts and lupin are legumes and major allergens, and sesame (in tahini) is one too. Check labels on tinned pulses, flours and sauces, tell guests what is in a dish, and use separate pans and spoons if someone is allergic. Celery is in many stock cubes.
Allergens: contains gluten (pasta), soya and celery.
Level 3 · Bake
A lentil and mushroom cottage pie
A comforting vegetarian cottage pie: brown lentils and mushrooms in a rich gravy, topped with fluffy mash and baked until golden. Make the filling thick, because a runny one makes the mash sink. The meat version is in Cooking Skills: Beef and Steak 1, chapter 6.
Ingredients (4 portions)
- 2 tbsp rapeseed oil
- 300 g chestnut mushrooms, chopped
- 1 onion, chopped
- 2 carrots, diced
- 2 celery sticks, diced
- 2 garlic cloves, grated
- 2 tbsp tomato paste
- 200 g brown or green lentils, rinsed
- 600 ml stock, unsalted
- 1 tbsp soy sauce
- 900 g floury potatoes, peeled
- 50 g butter
- 4 tbsp milk
- Brown the mushrooms in the oil for 8 minutes, add the onion, carrot and celery for 8 minutes, then the garlic and tomato paste. Add the lentils, stock and soy sauce and simmer for 30 minutes until thick.
- Boil the potatoes for 20 minutes, drain, and mash with the butter and milk.
- Spoon the filling into a dish, top with the mash, fork it rough, and bake at 200°C (180°C fan, gas 6) for 25 minutes until golden.
Hot oven, thick filling and allergens
Hot oven and heavy dishes: a casserole or baking dish of bean stew is heavy and bubbling hot. Use dry oven gloves, pull the shelf out before lifting, put the dish on a heatproof surface, and open foil away from your face because the steam scalds.Thick soups catch and spit: a thick soup sticks to the base of the pan and blobs and spits when it bubbles. Stir often, keep the heat low, use a pan with a heavy base and a long spoon, and keep your face back.
Allergens in pulses: soya, peanuts and lupin are legumes and major allergens, and sesame (in tahini) is one too. Check labels on tinned pulses, flours and sauces, tell guests what is in a dish, and use separate pans and spoons if someone is allergic. Celery is in many stock cubes.
Allergens: contains milk, soya and celery.
Experiments
Experiment
Breadcrumbs or oats
Binding.
- Make two small burgers, one bound with breadcrumbs and one with oats.
Look for: Oats give a chewier, more even texture; breadcrumbs make a lighter, crumblier burger.
Experiment
Chilled or not
Holding together.
- Fry one patty straight after shaping and another after 30 minutes in the fridge.
Look for: The chilled patty keeps its shape and browns; the unchilled one slumps and breaks in the pan.
Experiment
Mashed bean amount
Texture.
- Make burgers with a quarter, half and all of the beans mashed.
Look for: More mashing holds better but tastes pasty; half mashed is the best balance of hold and bite.
Experiment
Browned lentils
Depth.
- Fry cooked lentils in hot oil for 5 minutes before adding to the sauce, and compare with unfried ones.
Look for: The browned lentils taste nuttier and meatier; unfried ones taste plainer and earthier.
Tasting notes
| What I tried | Method or amount | What I saw | What I thought | Will I do it again? |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Chickpea fritters | ||||
| Black bean burgers | ||||
| Lentil bolognese | ||||
| Lentil and mushroom cottage pie | ||||
| Breadcrumbs or oats | ||||
| Chilled or not | ||||
| Mashed bean amount | ||||
| Browned lentils |
Troubleshooting
| Problem | Likely cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Burgers fall apart | Too wet or not chilled | Pat the beans dry, add oats and chill |
| Burgers dry and crumbly | Too much binder | Add less crumb or a spoon of oil or yogurt |
| Bland burger | Not enough seasoning | Add spice, soy sauce and salt |
| Watery bolognese | Not simmered enough | Simmer uncovered until thick |
| Mash sinks into the pie | Filling too thin or hot | Thicken and cool the filling a little |
| Mushy lentils | Boiled too hard | Simmer gently and stop when tender |
Hot pan, oven and leftovers
Hot pan and hot oil: roasting tins and frying pans for browning are very hot and fat spits. Use dry oven gloves, pull the shelf out a little before lifting a tray, put hot things on a heatproof surface and keep children away.Hot oven and heavy dishes: a casserole or baking dish of bean stew is heavy and bubbling hot. Use dry oven gloves, pull the shelf out before lifting, put the dish on a heatproof surface, and open foil away from your face because the steam scalds.
Cooling and keeping stock: stock is an ideal place for bacteria to grow. Strain it, then cool it quickly in shallow containers or an ice bath, chill within 1 to 2 hours, and use within about 2 days (fish stock within 1 day) or freeze it. Never leave a big pot to cool slowly on the hob or worktop overnight. Reheat until steaming hot all the way through.
Checkpoint: can you do this now?
- I can mash half the pulses for binding.
- I can chill and cook a burger that holds.
- I can add umami to replace meat.
- I can make a thick lentil sauce.
- I can top a pie so it browns and doesn't sink.
Next chapter
Cooking Skills: Pulses and Beans 1, chapter 8 is A Pulse Week: batch cooking, protein and freezing.