Know Your Pulses
Cooking Skills: Pulses and Beans 1
Chapter 1 · Know Your Pulses
Skill goal
Tell the main pulses apart, choose between tinned and dried, and cook lentils and chickpeas simply and well.
Shopping list for this chapter
The basics
Pulses are the dried seeds of plants in the pea family: lentils, beans, peas and chickpeas. They are cheap, filling, high in protein and fibre, and they keep for years in a cupboard. Lentils are the quick ones: red lentils collapse to a purée in 20 minutes and need no soaking, while green and Puy lentils hold their shape in 25 to 30 minutes, which makes them good for salads. Beans and chickpeas are bigger and need soaking and longer cooking, around an hour or more.
Tinned pulses are already cooked, so they are the fast, easy choice: drain, rinse and use. Dried pulses are cheaper, hold their shape better and taste better, but need planning. Keep the dried kind in a sealed jar away from light, and use within about a year, because old pulses never go fully soft. The next chapter covers soaking and the safe way to cook beans. Cooking Skills: Soups and Stocks 1, chapter 5 uses lentils and split peas in soups.
The method
- Rinse dried pulses in a sieve and pick out any small stones or shrivelled pieces.
- Cover with plenty of cold water (or stock) and bring to a gentle simmer, skimming the foam.
- Simmer, don't boil hard, because a rolling boil bursts the skins and makes a mush.
- Taste to test: a cooked pulse is soft all the way through with no chalky centre.
- Season with salt and acid once tender, drain, and dress while still warm so they absorb flavour.
| Pulse | Soaking | Time (approximate) | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Red lentils | None | 20 minutes | Soups, dals, purées |
| Green or Puy lentils | None | 25 to 30 minutes | Salads, side dishes, stews |
| Chickpeas | Overnight | 1 to 1.5 hours | Hummus, curries, salads |
| Cannellini or butter beans | Overnight | 1 hour | Stews, dips, bakes |
Boiling over, tinned pulses, digestion and allergens
Boiling over: pulses foam and boil over easily, and the starchy foam is scalding. Use a pan twice as big as the pulses and water need, skim the foam, keep the lid ajar and stay at the cooker.Tinned pulses: tinned pulses are cooked and ready to eat once drained and rinsed, which also washes off much of the salt. Check the use-by date, never use tins that are bulging or leaking, and keep opened tins in a covered container in the fridge for up to 2 days rather than in the tin.
Pulses and digestion: pulses contain sugars that some people find hard to digest and that cause wind. Soaking, discarding the soaking water, cooking until completely soft and building up the amount gradually all help. This is general information, not medical advice; talk to a doctor if you have a digestive condition.
Allergens in pulses: soya, peanuts and lupin are legumes and major allergens, and sesame (in tahini) is one too. Check labels on tinned pulses, flours and sauces, tell guests what is in a dish, and use separate pans and spoons if someone is allergic. Celery is in many stock cubes.
Try it
Level 1 · Start here
A tinned bean rescue
Tinned beans taste of the tin until you rinse them and give them some attention. Warm them with garlic, rosemary and olive oil, mash a few for body and finish with lemon. Pile onto toasted sourdough for a meal in 10 minutes.
Ingredients (2 portions)
- 400 g tin of cannellini beans, drained and rinsed
- 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
- 2 garlic cloves, sliced
- 1 sprig of rosemary
- 1 lemon, juice
- 2 thick slices of sourdough, toasted
- 1 pinch flaked sea salt
- Warm half the oil with the garlic and rosemary in a small pan for 2 minutes, without browning the garlic.
- Add the beans and 3 tbsp water, and heat gently for 5 minutes, mashing a few against the side of the pan.
- Remove the rosemary, season with salt and lemon juice, and spoon onto the toast with the rest of the oil.
Tinned pulses and allergens
Tinned pulses: tinned pulses are cooked and ready to eat once drained and rinsed, which also washes off much of the salt. Check the use-by date, never use tins that are bulging or leaking, and keep opened tins in a covered container in the fridge for up to 2 days rather than in the tin.Allergens in pulses: soya, peanuts and lupin are legumes and major allergens, and sesame (in tahini) is one too. Check labels on tinned pulses, flours and sauces, tell guests what is in a dish, and use separate pans and spoons if someone is allergic. Celery is in many stock cubes.
Pulses and digestion: pulses contain sugars that some people find hard to digest and that cause wind. Soaking, discarding the soaking water, cooking until completely soft and building up the amount gradually all help. This is general information, not medical advice; talk to a doctor if you have a digestive condition.
Level 1 · Quick
Red lentils in 20 minutes
Red lentils turn into a soft golden purée with no effort. Cook them with a little cumin and garlic as a side dish or a base for later chapters. Skim the foam as it rises, and don't salt until they are soft.
Ingredients (4 portions)
- 250 g red lentils, rinsed
- 800 ml water or vegetable stock, unsalted
- 1 tsp cumin seeds
- 2 garlic cloves, sliced
- 1 tbsp rapeseed oil
- 1 lemon, juice
- 2 tbsp chopped coriander
- Fry the cumin seeds and garlic in the oil for 1 minute until fragrant. Add the lentils and water and bring to a simmer, skimming the foam.
- Simmer, stirring now and then, for 15 to 20 minutes until the lentils have collapsed and the mixture is thick.
- Season with salt and lemon juice and stir in the coriander. Add water if it is too thick.
Boiling over, hot oil and digestion
Boiling over: pulses foam and boil over easily, and the starchy foam is scalding. Use a pan twice as big as the pulses and water need, skim the foam, keep the lid ajar and stay at the cooker.Hot pan and hot oil: roasting tins and frying pans for browning are very hot and fat spits. Use dry oven gloves, pull the shelf out a little before lifting a tray, put hot things on a heatproof surface and keep children away.
Pulses and digestion: pulses contain sugars that some people find hard to digest and that cause wind. Soaking, discarding the soaking water, cooking until completely soft and building up the amount gradually all help. This is general information, not medical advice; talk to a doctor if you have a digestive condition.
Level 2 · Salad lentils
Green lentils with herbs
Puy and green lentils hold their shape and have a peppery bite. Cook them with a bay leaf and a halved onion in unsalted water, drain while still firm, and dress with oil, lemon and herbs while they're warm. Serve warm as a side or cold in a salad.
Ingredients (4 portions)
- 250 g green or Puy lentils, rinsed
- 1 small onion, halved
- 1 bay leaf
- 1 garlic clove, bruised
- 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
- 1 lemon, juice
- 3 tbsp chopped parsley
- 1 tbsp chopped thyme
- Put the lentils, onion, bay leaf and garlic in a pan with 700 ml cold water. Bring to a simmer and cook gently for 25 to 30 minutes until tender but still holding their shape.
- Drain, remove the onion, bay and garlic, and tip the lentils into a bowl while still warm.
- Dress with the oil, lemon juice, herbs, salt and pepper, and taste.
Boiling over and digestion
Boiling over: pulses foam and boil over easily, and the starchy foam is scalding. Use a pan twice as big as the pulses and water need, skim the foam, keep the lid ajar and stay at the cooker.Pulses and digestion: pulses contain sugars that some people find hard to digest and that cause wind. Soaking, discarding the soaking water, cooking until completely soft and building up the amount gradually all help. This is general information, not medical advice; talk to a doctor if you have a digestive condition.
Allergens in pulses: soya, peanuts and lupin are legumes and major allergens, and sesame (in tahini) is one too. Check labels on tinned pulses, flours and sauces, tell guests what is in a dish, and use separate pans and spoons if someone is allergic. Celery is in many stock cubes.
Level 3 · From dried
A pot of chickpeas from dried
Home-cooked chickpeas are creamier and taste better than tinned, and the cooking liquid is a free stock. Soak them overnight, cook them with an onion and a bay leaf and keep them in their cooking liquid. Don't salt until they are nearly tender.
Ingredients (about 600 g cooked)
- 250 g dried chickpeas
- 1 onion, halved
- 1 bay leaf
- 1 carrot, halved
- 1 tsp flaked sea salt
- 1.5 litres cold water, plus more for soaking
- Rinse the chickpeas and soak in plenty of cold water for 8 to 12 hours (overnight). Drain and rinse.
- Put in a large pan with the onion, bay, carrot and 1.5 litres of fresh cold water. Bring to a boil, skim, then simmer gently, partly covered, for 1 hour to 1 hour 30 minutes until completely soft.
- Add the salt for the last 15 minutes. Cool in their liquid, then drain and keep the liquid. Chill for 3 days or freeze.
Boiling over, storage and digestion
Boiling over: pulses foam and boil over easily, and the starchy foam is scalding. Use a pan twice as big as the pulses and water need, skim the foam, keep the lid ajar and stay at the cooker.Cooling and keeping stock: stock is an ideal place for bacteria to grow. Strain it, then cool it quickly in shallow containers or an ice bath, chill within 1 to 2 hours, and use within about 2 days (fish stock within 1 day) or freeze it. Never leave a big pot to cool slowly on the hob or worktop overnight. Reheat until steaming hot all the way through.
Pulses and digestion: pulses contain sugars that some people find hard to digest and that cause wind. Soaking, discarding the soaking water, cooking until completely soft and building up the amount gradually all help. This is general information, not medical advice; talk to a doctor if you have a digestive condition.
Allergens in pulses: soya, peanuts and lupin are legumes and major allergens, and sesame (in tahini) is one too. Check labels on tinned pulses, flours and sauces, tell guests what is in a dish, and use separate pans and spoons if someone is allergic. Celery is in many stock cubes.
Experiments
Experiment
Rinsed or unrinsed tinned beans
Taste.
- Taste a spoonful of beans straight from the tin and another after a good rinse.
Look for: Unrinsed beans taste salty and slightly metallic and have a slimy coating; rinsed ones are cleaner and take on flavour.
Experiment
Lentils salted early or late
Texture.
- Cook two small pots of green lentils, one salted at the start and one at the end.
Look for: For lentils the difference is small, but the late-salted pot is easier to control, and the early-salted one can be a little firmer.
Experiment
Old or new dried pulses
Cooking time.
- Compare a fresh packet of chickpeas with one that has been in the cupboard for years.
Look for: Old pulses take much longer and some never go fully soft; buy from a shop with a fast turnover.
Experiment
Cooking liquid kept or tipped
Flavour.
- Cook a pot of chickpeas, then taste the liquid and mix some into a soup.
Look for: The cooking liquid is starchy and savoury; kept, it makes a good free stock, though it is not for everyone with digestive issues.
Tasting notes
| What I tried | Method or amount | What I saw | What I thought | Will I do it again? |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tinned bean rescue | ||||
| Red lentils in 20 minutes | ||||
| Green lentils with herbs | ||||
| Chickpeas from dried | ||||
| Rinsed or unrinsed tinned beans | ||||
| Lentils salted early or late | ||||
| Old or new dried pulses | ||||
| Cooking liquid kept or tipped |
Troubleshooting
| Problem | Likely cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Pulses still hard | Old, or salt or acid added too early | Cook longer; add salt and acid when nearly soft |
| Lentils turn to mush | Wrong kind or boiled hard | Use green lentils for shape; simmer gently |
| Skins split | Boiled too hard | Keep to a gentle simmer |
| Beany or flat taste | Not enough salt or acid | Season with salt, lemon and oil at the end |
| Foam boils over | Pulses release foam | Use a big pan and skim |
| Wind afterwards | Under-cooked or a big portion | Cook until completely soft and start with small amounts |
Tinned pulses, digestion and leftovers
Tinned pulses: tinned pulses are cooked and ready to eat once drained and rinsed, which also washes off much of the salt. Check the use-by date, never use tins that are bulging or leaking, and keep opened tins in a covered container in the fridge for up to 2 days rather than in the tin.Pulses and digestion: pulses contain sugars that some people find hard to digest and that cause wind. Soaking, discarding the soaking water, cooking until completely soft and building up the amount gradually all help. This is general information, not medical advice; talk to a doctor if you have a digestive condition.
Cooling and keeping stock: stock is an ideal place for bacteria to grow. Strain it, then cool it quickly in shallow containers or an ice bath, chill within 1 to 2 hours, and use within about 2 days (fish stock within 1 day) or freeze it. Never leave a big pot to cool slowly on the hob or worktop overnight. Reheat until steaming hot all the way through.
Checkpoint: can you do this now?
- I can tell lentils, beans and chickpeas apart.
- I know which pulses need soaking.
- I can rinse and season tinned beans.
- I can cook lentils that keep their shape.
- I know to salt pulses once they are tender.
Next chapter
Cooking Skills: Pulses and Beans 1, chapter 2 is Soaking and Cooking: soaking, boiling safely and judging doneness.