Ravioli
Cooking Skills: Pasta 2
Chapter 4 · Ravioli
Shopping list for this chapter
The basics
Ravioli are pillows of fresh pasta around a filling, the most satisfying thing to make from a sheet of dough. They look hard, but there are only four skills: a dry filling, a thin, even sheet, a good seal and gentle cooking.
| Problem to avoid | How | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Soggy ravioli | Drain ricotta, squeeze vegetables dry, roast squash until dry, cool the filling completely | Wet filling leaks through the dough |
| Bursting ravioli | Press out every pocket of air, and don't overfill | Air expands in the hot water and splits the seams |
| Ravioli that open | Brush the dough with water or egg before sealing, and press firmly | Dry dough doesn't stick to dry dough |
| Thick, doughy edges | Roll thinly and trim well; press edges flat | Double thickness at the seam must still cook through |
| Torn, mangled ravioli | Simmer gently; lift out with a slotted spoon | A hard boil knocks them about |
- Teaspoons of filling. It looks too little at first; the dough puffs round it. About 10 g per ravioli.
- Keep the dough covered. Dough you're not using dries out and won't seal.
- Work on a floured, semolina-dusted board and keep the finished ravioli apart on a tray.
- The filling is cooked or ready to eat, because the pasta cooks for only 3 or 4 minutes.
Try it
Spinach and ricotta ravioli
The best first filling: soft, mild and forgiving. The filling must be dry (the ricotta drained, the spinach squeezed), because wet filling makes soggy ravioli that burst.
Ingredients (3 portions)
- 200 g plain flour (or "00")
- 2 Lion-marked medium eggs
- 1 pinch fine salt
- 2 tbsp fine semolina (or extra flour), for dusting
- 1 small egg or a little water, for sealing
- 200 g ricotta, drained in a sieve for 30 minutes
- 60 g cooked spinach, squeezed completely dry, finely chopped
- 30 g parmesan, grated
- 1 pinch nutmeg
- ½ lemon, zest only
- ¼ tsp salt
- Make the dough: mix the flour, salt and eggs, knead for 8 to 10 minutes and rest for 30 minutes (chapter 1). Meanwhile, make the filling (below).
- Cut the dough in half and keep one half wrapped. Roll the other into a long sheet about 1 to 1.5 mm thick and about 12 cm wide, trimming the edges straight.
- Filling: mix the ricotta, spinach, parmesan, nutmeg, lemon zest and salt until smooth.
- Place level teaspoons of filling (about 10 g) on one half of the sheet, in a row, about 4 cm apart. Brush round them (and the long edge) with the beaten egg or water.
- Fold the other half of the sheet over, and press the dough down round each mound with the sides of your fingers, pushing out all the air. Trapped air makes ravioli burst while cooking.
- Cut between the mounds into squares with a knife or a fluted wheel, or use a round cutter. Press the edges with a fork if you like. Set on a semolina-dusted tray, not touching.
- Cook in a large pan of gently simmering salted water for 3 to 4 minutes, until they float and the edges are tender. Lift out with a slotted spoon. Serve with the lemon butter below.
Butternut squash ravioli
Roasted squash has a lovely sweetness, but it holds a lot of water. Roast it until dry and caramelised, and mash it with breadcrumbs to soak up what's left.
Ingredients (3 portions)
- 200 g plain flour (or "00")
- 2 Lion-marked medium eggs
- 1 pinch fine salt
- 2 tbsp fine semolina (or extra flour), for dusting
- 1 small egg or a little water, for sealing
- 400 g butternut squash, peeled and cubed
- 1 tsp olive oil
- 30 g parmesan, grated
- 2 tbsp dried breadcrumbs
- 1 pinch nutmeg
- 1 pinch salt and pepper
- 6 sage leaves, to serve
- 1 tbsp butter, to serve
- Make the dough: mix the flour, salt and eggs, knead for 8 to 10 minutes and rest for 30 minutes (chapter 1). Meanwhile, make the filling (below).
- Cut the dough in half and keep one half wrapped. Roll the other into a long sheet about 1 to 1.5 mm thick and about 12 cm wide, trimming the edges straight.
- Filling: heat the oven to 200°C fan (220°C conventional, gas 7). Toss the squash with the oil, spread on a tray and roast for 25 to 30 minutes, until soft and browned at the edges. Mash until smooth, mix in the parmesan, breadcrumbs, nutmeg and seasoning, and let it cool completely.
- Fill, seal, cut and cook the ravioli exactly as in the spinach recipe, with level teaspoons of filling, all air pressed out, and a gentle simmer for 3 to 4 minutes.
- Meanwhile, melt the butter in a small pan and fry the sage leaves for 1 minute until crisp. Spoon over the ravioli.
Pea and mint ravioli
Peas make a fresh, sweet filling. Crush them coarsely, not to a purée, or the filling turns to paste.
Ingredients (3 portions)
- 200 g plain flour (or "00")
- 2 Lion-marked medium eggs
- 1 pinch fine salt
- 2 tbsp fine semolina (or extra flour), for dusting
- 1 small egg or a little water, for sealing
- 200 g frozen peas
- 100 g ricotta, drained
- 20 g parmesan, grated
- 1 tbsp chopped mint
- ½ lemon, zest only
- 1 pinch salt and pepper
- 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, to serve
- Make the dough: mix the flour, salt and eggs, knead for 8 to 10 minutes and rest for 30 minutes (chapter 1). Meanwhile, make the filling (below).
- Cut the dough in half and keep one half wrapped. Roll the other into a long sheet about 1 to 1.5 mm thick and about 12 cm wide, trimming the edges straight.
- Filling: boil the peas for 3 minutes, drain very well and let them steam dry. Crush them coarsely with a fork, then mix in the ricotta, parmesan, mint, lemon zest and seasoning. The mixture should hold its shape on a spoon.
- Fill, seal, cut and cook as in the spinach recipe for 3 to 4 minutes.
- Serve with the olive oil, a squeeze of lemon and more mint.
Lemon butter (for any filled pasta)
Fresh filled pasta doesn't need a heavy sauce. Butter and lemon make a light, glossy coating that lets the filling shine.
Ingredients (2 portions)
- 40 g butter
- ½ lemon, zest and 1 tsp juice
- 3 tbsp cooking water from the ravioli
- 1 pinch black pepper
- Melt the butter in a wide pan over a low heat and add the lemon zest.
- Add the cooking water and simmer for 20 seconds to make a creamy emulsion.
- Add the cooked ravioli and roll them gently in the sauce. Add the lemon juice and pepper. Serve at once.
Experiments
How much filling
Find the limit.
- Make ravioli with 1 level teaspoon, 2 teaspoons and 1 tablespoon of filling each.
- Cook them together and note which burst, and how they taste.
Look for: The small ones are mostly pasta, the large ones are likely to burst or leak at the seam. Between 1 and 2 teaspoons is the sweet spot.
Water or egg wash
What do you seal with?
- Seal three ravioli with a brush of water and three with beaten egg. Press them identically.
- Cook them gently and check which ones open.
Look for: Both work for fresh dough. Egg is stickier, and better for dough that has dried slightly. If your dough is fresh and damp, water is fine.
Thick or thin sheet
How thin should it be?
- Roll one lot of dough to 1 mm and another to 2 mm. Make and cook ravioli from each for the same time.
- Compare the eating.
Look for: The 2 mm ravioli are chewy and doughy at the seams, the 1 mm ones are delicate. Too thin and they tear, too thick and the filling is lost.
Cutter or knife
Does the shape matter?
- Cut some ravioli with a round cutter and some into squares with a knife or fluted wheel.
- Cook and compare how many scraps are left, and how well the edges seal.
Look for: A round cutter gives neat shapes but wastes dough, squares waste none. Reroll the scraps once to make a few more.
Tasting notes
| What I tried | Method or amount | What I saw | What I thought | Will I do it again? |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Spinach and ricotta ravioli | ||||
| Squash ravioli | ||||
| Pea and mint ravioli | ||||
| Lemon butter | ||||
| Filling amount | ||||
| Water vs egg seal | ||||
| 1 mm vs 2 mm | ||||
| Cutter vs knife |
Troubleshooting
| Problem | Likely cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Ravioli burst while cooking | Trapped air, overfilled, or boiled hard | Press out the air, use less filling, simmer gently |
| Ravioli open at the seams | Dough too dry, or not pressed | Brush with water or egg and press firmly |
| Soggy bottoms | Wet filling, or left on a damp board | Dry the filling; dust the tray with semolina and cook soon |
| Doughy seams | Dough too thick at the edge | Roll thinner and press the dough flat round the filling |
| Ravioli stuck to the tray | Left too long or not dusted | Dust with semolina; freeze on the tray |
| Filling bland | Not seasoned | Season the filling; taste a cooked spoonful of it only if it contains no raw egg |
The fillings here are all cooked or ready to eat (the ricotta is pasteurised, the squash and peas are cooked, the spinach is cooked), and the ravioli simmer for 3 to 4 minutes. Don't put raw meat or raw egg in a filling. If you fill with anything else, make sure it is cooked.
Uncooked fresh pasta, which contains raw egg, should be kept in the fridge (0 to 5°C) and cooked within 24 hours, or frozen straight away. (There is no pasta-specific official guidance, so this is a cautious rule based on the Food Standards Agency's general advice on chilling and freezing homemade food.) Freeze it in a single layer on a tray, then bag it, and cook from frozen. Cook frozen ravioli straight from the freezer for 5 to 6 minutes, never thawed, which makes them stick and burst.
Cooked pasta is a starchy food, and like rice it can grow bacteria if it is left warm. There is no pasta-specific official guidance, so this course uses the cautious rule: cool it quickly (within about an hour), put it in the fridge, and eat it within 24 hours; freeze it if you won't. Reheat until steaming hot all the way through.
- I can make a filling that is dry enough.
- I can roll a sheet thin enough, and fill and seal ravioli.
- I know why air must be pressed out.
- I can simmer ravioli without bursting them.
- I can freeze ravioli and cook them from frozen.