Putting It Together

Cooking Skills: Pasta 1

Chapter 9 · Putting It Together

Skill goal
Batch-cook and freeze sauces safely, plan a week of pasta meals, and serve a supper for guests.

Shopping list for this chapter

The basics

Pasta is one of the best foods to plan around: it is cheap, quick and keeps in the cupboard, and the sauces freeze beautifully. The last chapter is about using that: cooking in batches, planning a week, and putting on a supper for guests.

HabitWhy
Make a big pan of sauce, freeze it in portionsA homemade sauce on a weeknight takes 10 minutes
Portion at about 150 ml per servingYou thaw only what you need
Cool quickly in shallow containersA big hot pot stays warm in the middle for hours
Label with the contents and dateYou'll never remember what the frozen block is
Thaw in the fridge, reheat once until steaming hotSafe, and the texture is better
Cook fresh pasta each timeCooked pasta keeps worse than sauce

Try it

Level 1 · Start here

Sauce day: ragù and tomato sauce for the freezer

2 hours 45 minutes, mostly unattended6 portions of ragù and 4 of tomato saucean afternoon that feeds you for weeks

Two sauces cooked side by side on the hob while you do something else. The skill here is organising: keeping both pans simmering gently, and cooling, portioning and labelling the results safely.

Ingredients (10 portions)

  • 500 g lean beef mince
  • 2 onions
  • 2 carrots
  • 2 celery sticks
  • 4 garlic cloves
  • 3 tbsp olive oil
  • 2 tbsp tomato purée
  • 1.2 kg tinned tomatoes (3 × 400 g: 1 for the ragù, 2 whole plum for the tomato sauce)
  • 200 ml hot reduced-salt beef stock
  • 100 ml whole milk
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 2 tsp salt, in total
  • 1 pinch sugar and nutmeg
  • 1 handful of basil
  1. Start the ragù first, as in chapter 6 (brown the mince in two batches; soften half of the onions, carrots, celery and garlic; add the purée, milk, 400 g of tomatoes, stock, one bay leaf and 1 tsp of salt). Simmer on the lowest heat, partly covered, for 2 hours.
  2. While the ragù simmers, start the slow tomato sauce in a second pan, as in chapter 3: soften the rest of the onion, carrot, celery and garlic in the remaining oil for 10 minutes, add the 2 tins of plum tomatoes, bay leaf, sugar and the remaining salt, and simmer partly covered for 40 minutes. Add the basil.
  3. Cool both quickly: pour them into shallow containers (no more than 5 cm deep) and stand in a sink of cold water, or leave in a cool place until no longer steaming. Refrigerate within 1 to 2 hours of cooking.
  4. Divide into portions: about 150 ml of sauce per 75 g pasta serving. Label each with the contents and date ("Ragù 18 Oct") and freeze flat in bags, or in tubs. Use within 3 months. Keep 2 portions in the fridge for the next two days.
  5. To use: thaw overnight in the fridge (or gently from frozen in a pan with a splash of water), reheat until steaming hot, and toss with freshly cooked pasta and a splash of the cooking water. Don't re-freeze thawed sauce.
Level 2 · Improvise

Clear-the-fridge pasta

20 minutes1 portionyour own recipe

Once you know the pattern, you don't need a recipe. The table below shows the formula.

Ingredients (1 portion)

  • 75 g dried pasta (any shape)
  • 1 tbsp olive oil
  • 1 garlic clove, sliced
  • 100 g vegetables, small pieces (courgette, peppers, mushrooms, broccoli, spinach)
  • 80 g cooked protein (tuna, chicken, cooked sausage, prawns, beans, chickpeas)
  • 150 ml sauce from the freezer, or 4 tablespoons pasta water plus 20 g cheese
  • 1 tbsp herbs, lemon or parmesan, to finish
  1. Boil the pasta in salted water. Meanwhile, soften the garlic in the oil, then add the vegetables (hard ones first) and cook until just tender.
  2. Add the cooked protein and the sauce (or, for an oil-based dish, use 4 tablespoons of pasta water) and heat through until steaming hot.
  3. Add the drained pasta with a splash of cooking water, toss for 1 minute, and finish with the herbs, lemon or cheese. Write down what you made for your house recipes.

The pasta formula

ChooseIdeasWhen it goes in
PastaAny shape, 75 g per portionInto boiling salted water, taste early
Fat and flavourOlive oil, garlic, chilli, anchovy, butterFirst, gently
VegetablesCourgette, mushrooms, broccoli, peppers, peas, spinachHard first, soft last
ProteinTuna, chicken, sausage, prawns, beans, eggRaw early, cooked late
SauceFrozen tomato sauce or ragù, or pasta waterWith the protein
FinishParmesan, lemon, herbs, a drizzle of oilOff the heat

A week of pasta meals

Seven dinners built mostly from the sauces in this course. Eat the fresh sauces first and use the frozen ones mid-week.

DayMealSauce
MondaySpaghetti with quick tomato sauce and a green saladQuick tomato sauce (fresh)
TuesdayAglio e olio with broccoliOil and garlic (fresh)
WednesdayRigatoni with ragù from the freezerFrozen ragù, reheated once
ThursdayTuna and tomato pastaStore-cupboard
FridaySpinach and ricotta pastaFresh, 15 minutes
SaturdayBaked pasta with tomato and mozzarellaFrozen tomato sauce, thawed
SundayMinestrone with pasta, or pasta e ceciSoup

A pasta supper for four

A starter of courgette and lemon pasta, lasagne with a salad as the main course, and fruit and yoghurt to finish. The lasagne is made ahead so that you're free when the guests arrive.

Course 1 · Starter

Courgette and lemon pasta, starter portions

25 minutes4 small portionslast-minute but quick

The courgette and lemon pasta from chapter 4, scaled for four small starter portions. Do this on the hob while the lasagne rests.

Ingredients (4 portions)

  • 200 g dried pasta for the starter (50 g each for 4 small portions)
  • 2 courgettes, halved lengthways and sliced
  • 2 tbsp olive oil
  • 2 tsp butter
  • 2 garlic cloves, sliced
  • 1 lemon, zest and 2 tsp juice
  • 40 g parmesan, grated
  • 2 tbsp chopped mint or basil
  1. Fry the courgettes in the oil and butter in a wide pan in two batches for 6 to 8 minutes each, until golden. Add the garlic for the last 30 seconds.
  2. Boil the pasta for the packet time minus 1 minute; scoop out a mugful of water and drain.
  3. Toss the pasta with the courgettes, the lemon zest and juice, and 6 tablespoons of the cooking water over a medium heat. Off the heat, stir in the parmesan and herbs.
Course 2 · Main

Lasagne with salad and fruit

15 minutes of your time4 portions (plus leftovers)made ahead

Cook the lasagne the day before or assemble it ahead and bake it just before the guests arrive. A simple lemony salad cuts the richness, and fruit with yoghurt ends the meal lightly.

Ingredients (4 portions)

  • 1 lasagne, assembled earlier from chapter 7 (6 portions: enough for four with leftovers)
  • 150 g mixed salad leaves
  • 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
  • 2 tsp lemon juice
  • 1 pinch salt and pepper
  • 300 g fresh berries and natural yoghurt, for pudding
  1. Bake and rest the lasagne as in chapter 7. Keep it covered in the oven (switched off, door shut) while you serve the starter.
  2. Dress the salad leaves with the oil, lemon juice and seasoning just before serving.
  3. Serve the lasagne with the salad. Finish with berries and a spoonful of natural yoghurt.

Timetable (dinner at about 7:30 pm)

TimeWhat to do
2 days beforeMake sauce day (ragù and tomato sauce) and freeze portions, or make the ragù only.
Day beforeDefrost the ragù in the fridge. Make the white sauce and assemble the lasagne. Cover and refrigerate.
5:30 pmTake the lasagne out of the fridge. Heat the oven to 180°C fan.
6:00 pmPut the lasagne in, covered with foil, for 40 minutes (a chilled lasagne needs 10 minutes longer than a fresh one).
6:40 pmUncover and bake for 15 to 20 minutes, until golden, bubbling and steaming hot in the middle.
7:00 pmTake the lasagne out to rest for 15 minutes. Slice the courgettes for the starter.
7:10 pmCook the courgettes, boil the pasta, toss and serve the starter.
7:30 pmCut the lasagne and serve with the dressed salad.
8:15 pmServe berries and yoghurt. Refrigerate any leftover lasagne within an hour.

Experiments

Experiment

Frozen or fresh sauce

Is a frozen sauce as good?

  1. Make a quick tomato sauce and a slow tomato sauce. Eat half of each fresh and freeze the rest.
  2. A week later, thaw them in the fridge, reheat until steaming hot, and eat with pasta.

Look for: Frozen tomato sauces usually keep very well. Ragù can be even better the next day. Is there any difference you can taste?

Experiment

Your signature sauce

Design a sauce you'd make again.

  1. Choose a base from chapters 3 to 6, then change one thing (a different herb, spice, vegetable or cheese).
  2. Make it, taste it, change one more thing.
  3. Write the final version in your house recipes.

Look for: A signature sauce usually has one surprising ingredient. What is yours?

Experiment

A timed supper

Do a practice run of the supper for four.

  1. Cook one starter portion, one slice of lasagne and a salad, following the timetable, and time each step.
  2. Write down what ran late.

Look for: Which jobs took longer than you thought? Adjust the timetable before you cook for real.

Your skills

SkillChapterI can do it
Choose a shape and portion pasta1☐
Cook pasta properly and use the cooking water2☐
Make a tomato sauce from a tin3☐
Make a creamy sauce from oil and pasta water4☐
Make cheese, cream and egg sauces without splitting5☐
Make a ragù and quick protein sauces6☐
Bake pasta and make a white sauce7☐
Use pasta in soups, salads and leftovers8☐
Batch-cook and freeze sauces safely9☐

Tasting notes

What I triedMethod or amountWhat I sawWhat I thoughtWill I do it again?
Sauce day
Clear-the-fridge pasta
Courgette and lemon starter
Lasagne for four
Frozen vs fresh sauce
My signature sauce
Timed supper

My house recipes

My house recipePasta and sauceFlavours and extrasHow longNotes
My everyday pasta
My quick supper
My signature sauce
My baked pasta
My supper for guests

Troubleshooting

ProblemLikely causeWhat to do
Frozen sauce watery after thawingWater separated on freezingSimmer for a few minutes to thicken
Freezer burn on sauceNot sealed wellSqueeze the air from the bag; use rigid tubs; use within 3 months
Sauce day takes all afternoonToo many jobs at onceMake one sauce on one day, and plan the timing
Starter and main clash on the hobEverything needs the hobMake the main ahead and bake it, then use the hob for the starter
Lasagne cold in the middleBaked from fridge cold without extra timeAdd 10 minutes; check the centre with a knife
Pasta overcooked at a dinner partyLeft standingDrain only when you're ready to serve and finish it in the sauce
Food safety: freezing and batch cooking
Cool big batches quickly in shallow containers and refrigerate within 1 to 2 hours. Freeze sauces within 24 hours and use within 3 months. Thaw in the fridge, never on the worktop, and reheat until steaming hot, once only. Cooked pasta is a starchy food, and like rice it can grow bacteria if it is left warm. There is no pasta-specific official guidance, so this course uses the cautious rule: cool it quickly (within about an hour), put it in the fridge, and eat it within 24 hours; freeze it if you won't. Reheat until steaming hot all the way through.
Checkpoint: can you do this now?
  • I can make, cool, portion and freeze a batch of sauce safely.
  • I can make a pasta dish from whatever is in the fridge.
  • I can plan a week of pasta meals.
  • I can time a supper for guests so it all arrives together.
  • I have written down my house recipes.
Next chapter
That's the end of Cooking Skills: Pasta 1. A possible Pasta 2 could cover fresh pasta by hand, filled pasta, gnocchi and lasagne from scratch. The next course in the series is up to you.