Korean Noodles
Cooking Skills: Noodles 2
Chapter 4 · Korean Noodles
Skill goal
Balance sweet, salty, spicy, nutty and tangy flavours and cook glass noodles, cold spicy noodles, black bean noodles and a light banquet broth.
Shopping list for this chapter
The basics
Korean cooking is built on balance: sweet, salty, spicy, nutty and tangy flavours, seasoned together and adjusted a little at a time. Its noodle dishes range from slippery sweet-potato glass noodles to spicy cold noodles, glossy black bean sauce and a light banquet broth.
The key ingredients
| Ingredient | What it is | What it does |
|---|---|---|
| Gochujang | Fermented chilli paste (sweet, spicy, savoury) | The base of spicy sauces; contains soy and often wheat |
| Gochugaru | Korean chilli flakes | Heat and colour, milder than most chilli flakes |
| Chunjang | Fermented black bean paste | Jjajangmyeon; fry it first to remove bitterness |
| Sesame oil and seeds | Toasted, nutty | Added at the end for aroma |
| Dangmyeon | Sweet potato starch glass noodles | Chewy and slippery, for japchae |
The method
- Make the sauce first and taste it by itself, then adjust: sugar for sweet, vinegar for tang, gochujang or gochugaru for heat, soy sauce for salt.
- Cook each vegetable separately for japchae, so each keeps its own colour and texture.
- Cook the paste in oil for jjajangmyeon: raw paste is bitter.
- Season glass noodles while warm, because they absorb flavour best then.
Chilli, hot oil, raw meat and allergens
Chilli: gochugaru and gochujang are hot. Wash your hands after handling chilli and keep them away from your eyes. Add heat a little at a time: you can add more but you can't take it out.Hot oil: never leave a pan of hot oil unattended. If oil starts to smoke, take the pan off the heat and let it cool. Never put water on a pan fire: turn off the heat and cover it with a lid or damp cloth, then get out of the room and call 999 if it spreads. Dry vegetables and noodles well, because water on hot oil spits.
Raw pork, beef and chicken: wash your hands, board and knife after handling raw meat, and cook it until steaming hot with no pink and clear juices (70°C for 2 minutes). Slice meat thinly so it cooks fast.
Allergens and labels: gochujang and black bean paste (chunjang) are fermented pastes that usually contain soy and often wheat; soy sauce contains soy and wheat; sesame oil and seeds are a common allergen; anchovy broth contains fish; eggs are an allergen. Check labels, and use the vegetarian swaps given.
Try it
Level 1 · Start here
Japchae (glass noodle stir-fry)
Chewy, slippery, sweet and savoury glass noodles with colourful vegetables. Cook each vegetable separately so each keeps its colour and taste. Eat warm or at room temperature.
Ingredients (3 portions)
- 150 g sweet potato starch glass noodles (dangmyeon)
- 1 tbsp vegetable oil, plus 1 tsp for the noodles
- 1 carrot, in matchsticks
- 1 onion, thinly sliced
- 150 g spinach
- 100 g mushrooms, sliced
- 3 tbsp soy sauce
- 1 tbsp sugar
- 1 tbsp toasted sesame oil
- 2 garlic cloves, crushed
- 1 tbsp toasted sesame seeds
- 150 g beef, thinly sliced (optional; leave out for vegetarian)
- Mix the soy sauce, sugar, sesame oil and garlic for the seasoning.
- Boil the glass noodles for 5 to 7 minutes, or as the pack says, until soft and chewy. Drain, rinse briefly, cut a few times with scissors and toss with 1 tsp oil and a third of the seasoning.
- Stir-fry the carrot, then the onion, then the mushrooms in a little oil, each for 2 to 3 minutes, and set aside. Wilt the spinach in boiling water for 30 seconds, squeeze dry and season with a pinch of salt.
- If using beef, stir-fry it separately for 3 to 4 minutes until browned and cooked through with no pink.
- Toss everything with the noodles and the remaining seasoning. Taste, adjust and scatter with sesame seeds.
Hot oil, raw meat and allergens
Hot oil: never leave a pan of hot oil unattended. If oil starts to smoke, take the pan off the heat and let it cool. Never put water on a pan fire: turn off the heat and cover it with a lid or damp cloth, then get out of the room and call 999 if it spreads. Dry vegetables and noodles well, because water on hot oil spits.Raw pork, beef and chicken: wash your hands, board and knife after handling raw meat, and cook it until steaming hot with no pink and clear juices (70°C for 2 minutes). Slice meat thinly so it cooks fast.
Allergens and labels: gochujang and black bean paste (chunjang) are fermented pastes that usually contain soy and often wheat; soy sauce contains soy and wheat; sesame oil and seeds are a common allergen; anchovy broth contains fish; eggs are an allergen. Check labels, and use the vegetarian swaps given.
Leftovers: cool noodle dishes quickly (within about 1 hour), keep them covered in the fridge, eat within 1 day (soups with meat or egg: 2 days, with the noodles stored separately), and reheat until steaming hot all the way through, and only once.
Level 2 · Cold
Bibim guksu (spicy cold noodles)
Cold noodles tossed in a bright red sauce, with crunchy cucumber and a boiled egg. Taste the sauce on its own first: it should be spicy, sweet, sour and salty in balance. See Cooking Skills: Noodles 1, chapter 4 for the cold-noodle method.
Ingredients (2 portions)
- 200 g thin wheat noodles (somen or similar)
- 2 tbsp gochujang
- 1 tbsp gochugaru (Korean chilli flakes; optional)
- 2 tbsp rice vinegar
- 1 tbsp soy sauce
- 1 tbsp sugar
- 1 tbsp toasted sesame oil
- 1 garlic clove, finely grated
- ½ cucumber, in matchsticks
- 1 pear or apple, in matchsticks (optional)
- 2 Lion-marked eggs, hard-boiled, halved
- 1 tbsp toasted sesame seeds
- Stir the gochujang, gochugaru, vinegar, soy sauce, sugar, sesame oil and garlic together. Taste and adjust: more sugar for sweetness, vinegar for tang, gochugaru for heat.
- Hard-boil the eggs for 10 minutes, cool in cold water and halve.
- Cook the noodles as the pack says (usually 2 to 4 minutes), rinse under cold water until cold and drain very well.
- Toss the noodles with the sauce, divide between bowls and top with cucumber, pear, egg and sesame seeds.
Cold dishes, chilli, eggs and allergens
Cooked noodles and cold dishes: cooked starchy foods left at room temperature can grow bacteria (rice is the best-known case, and cooked noodles are treated the same way). Cool noodles quickly under cold water, put them in the fridge within about 1 hour, keep them covered, eat within 1 day, and don't leave a cold noodle dish out for more than about 2 hours. This is general food-safety guidance in line with the Rice courses; I haven't found a rule written specially for noodles.Chilli: gochugaru and gochujang are hot. Wash your hands after handling chilli and keep them away from your eyes. Add heat a little at a time: you can add more but you can't take it out.
Eggs: use eggs with the British Lion mark and wash your hands after handling raw egg. Cook eggs until solid if you are unsure about runny eggs for you or your guests: the Food Standards Agency's advice on runny eggs differs for some groups, so check the current guidance at food.gov.uk.
Allergens and labels: gochujang and black bean paste (chunjang) are fermented pastes that usually contain soy and often wheat; soy sauce contains soy and wheat; sesame oil and seeds are a common allergen; anchovy broth contains fish; eggs are an allergen. Check labels, and use the vegetarian swaps given.
Level 3 · Sauce
Jjajangmyeon (black bean noodles)
A dark, glossy, savoury-sweet sauce of pork and vegetables over thick noodles. The paste is fried in oil first, which makes it smoother and less bitter.
Ingredients (3 portions)
- 300 g fresh or dried wheat noodles (thick, udon-style)
- 200 g pork belly or shoulder, in small cubes
- 1 onion, diced
- 1 courgette, diced
- ½ potato, small diced
- 3 tbsp chunjang (Korean black bean paste), or the labelled substitute
- 3 tbsp vegetable oil, divided
- 1 tbsp sugar
- 1 tbsp cornflour mixed with 3 tbsp cold water
- 250 ml water or stock
- ½ cucumber, in matchsticks, to serve
- Heat 2 tbsp of the oil in a pan over a medium heat and fry the black bean paste for 2 to 3 minutes, stirring, until it smells toasty. Scrape into a bowl.
- Add the remaining oil and fry the pork for 6 to 8 minutes until browned and cooked through with no pink. Add the onion, courgette and potato and fry for 5 minutes.
- Stir in the fried paste, sugar and the water or stock. Simmer for 10 minutes until the potato is tender, stirring.
- Stir the cornflour mixture and add it to the simmering sauce, stirring until thick and glossy, about 1 minute.
- Cook the noodles as the pack says and drain. Pour the sauce over the noodles and top with cucumber.
Hot oil, raw pork, hot sauce and allergens
Hot oil: never leave a pan of hot oil unattended. If oil starts to smoke, take the pan off the heat and let it cool. Never put water on a pan fire: turn off the heat and cover it with a lid or damp cloth, then get out of the room and call 999 if it spreads. Dry vegetables and noodles well, because water on hot oil spits.Raw pork, beef and chicken: wash your hands, board and knife after handling raw meat, and cook it until steaming hot with no pink and clear juices (70°C for 2 minutes). Slice meat thinly so it cooks fast.
Substitute: real chunjang (Korean black bean paste) is sold in Asian supermarkets. If you can't find it, use a dark Chinese black bean sauce mixed with a little dark soy sauce and sugar: it is not the same, but it makes a good dish.
Allergens and labels: gochujang and black bean paste (chunjang) are fermented pastes that usually contain soy and often wheat; soy sauce contains soy and wheat; sesame oil and seeds are a common allergen; anchovy broth contains fish; eggs are an allergen. Check labels, and use the vegetarian swaps given.
Hot soup: a ladle of boiling broth causes a serious scald. Keep pan handles turned in, ladle into bowls on a stable surface away from the edge, carry bowls with both hands and let children's bowls cool first. Noodles hold heat, so blow on them before eating.
Level 3 · Broth
Janchi guksu (anchovy broth noodles)
'Banquet noodles': thin noodles in a light, clean anchovy and kombu broth, topped with egg and vegetable strips and a spoon of seasoning sauce. A quiet, elegant bowl.
Ingredients (3 portions)
- 1 piece of kombu (about 10 cm)
- 10 dried anchovies, heads and guts removed (or use vegetable stock for a fish-free version)
- 1.2 litres water
- 1 tbsp soy sauce
- ½ tsp salt
- 200 g thin wheat noodles (somen)
- 1 courgette, in matchsticks
- 1 carrot, in matchsticks
- 2 Lion-marked eggs, made into thin omelette strips
- 2 spring onions, sliced
- 1 batch soy sauce, 1 tsp sesame oil, 1 tsp gochugaru and 1 crushed garlic clove, for the seasoning sauce
- Simmer the kombu and anchovies in the water for 15 minutes, taking out the kombu after 10 (so it doesn't turn bitter). Strain, then season with the soy sauce and salt.
- Make the omelette strips (Cooking Skills: Noodles 2, chapter 3), cooking each omelette for about 1 minute until fully set. Quickly fry the courgette and carrot for 1 to 2 minutes each.
- Mix the seasoning sauce: soy sauce, sesame oil, gochugaru and garlic.
- Cook the noodles, rinse and drain, then divide between bowls. Add the toppings, ladle over the very hot broth and add a spoonful of seasoning sauce.
Hot broth, eggs, fish and allergens
Hot soup: a ladle of boiling broth causes a serious scald. Keep pan handles turned in, ladle into bowls on a stable surface away from the edge, carry bowls with both hands and let children's bowls cool first. Noodles hold heat, so blow on them before eating.Eggs: use eggs with the British Lion mark and wash your hands after handling raw egg. Cook eggs until solid if you are unsure about runny eggs for you or your guests: the Food Standards Agency's advice on runny eggs differs for some groups, so check the current guidance at food.gov.uk.
Allergens and labels: gochujang and black bean paste (chunjang) are fermented pastes that usually contain soy and often wheat; soy sauce contains soy and wheat; sesame oil and seeds are a common allergen; anchovy broth contains fish; eggs are an allergen. Check labels, and use the vegetarian swaps given.
Broth and leftovers: cool broth quickly, keep it covered in the fridge for up to 2 days and reheat until steaming hot, once only. Keep noodles apart from the broth.
Experiments
Experiment
Gochujang amount
A little or a lot.
- Make the bibim guksu sauce with 1 tbsp, 2 tbsp and 3 tbsp of gochujang. Toss each with a spoonful of noodles.
Look for: The smallest amount is mild and pale; the largest is thick, sweet and fiery. Remember that heat builds as you eat.
Experiment
Cooking the sauce
Raw paste or fried.
- Fry half of the chunjang in oil for 2 minutes and leave half raw. Stir each into a spoon of hot water and taste.
Look for: The fried paste is smoother and toastier; the raw paste tastes harsh and bitter. That is why the first step matters.
Experiment
Glass noodle soak or boil
Two methods.
- Soak one batch of glass noodles in hot water for 20 minutes and boil another for 6 minutes. Compare.
Look for: Boiled noodles are soft, chewy and slippery. Soaked ones are often firmer and can be uneven. Boiling is usually more reliable.
Experiment
Sugar and sesame
Seasoning at the end.
- Make japchae with and without the sugar and the sesame oil. Taste.
Look for: Without sugar the dish is salty and flat. Without sesame oil it lacks aroma. These two small additions complete the balance.
Tasting notes
| What I tried | Method or amount | What I saw | What I thought | Will I do it again? |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Japchae | ||||
| Bibim guksu | ||||
| Jjajangmyeon | ||||
| Janchi guksu | ||||
| Gochujang amount | ||||
| Fried or raw paste | ||||
| Soak or boil | ||||
| Sugar and sesame |
Troubleshooting
| Problem | Likely cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Glass noodles clump | Not tossed with oil, or left to cool | Toss with a little oil and some seasoning while warm |
| Too spicy | Too much gochujang or gochugaru | Add sugar, vinegar and more noodles or cucumber; use less next time |
| Bitter black bean sauce | Paste not fried | Fry the paste in oil for 2 to 3 minutes first |
| Sauce too thin | Not enough thickener or simmer time | Add a little more cornflour mixture and simmer for a minute |
| Bland broth | Too little salt or anchovy | Season with a little more soy sauce or salt; simmer longer |
| Bitter kombu broth | Boiled too long | Take out the kombu after 10 minutes |
Hot oil, chilli, raw meat, eggs and allergens
Hot oil: never leave a pan of hot oil unattended. If oil starts to smoke, take the pan off the heat and let it cool. Never put water on a pan fire: turn off the heat and cover it with a lid or damp cloth, then get out of the room and call 999 if it spreads. Dry vegetables and noodles well, because water on hot oil spits.Chilli: gochugaru and gochujang are hot. Wash your hands after handling chilli and keep them away from your eyes. Add heat a little at a time: you can add more but you can't take it out.
Raw pork, beef and chicken: wash your hands, board and knife after handling raw meat, and cook it until steaming hot with no pink and clear juices (70°C for 2 minutes). Slice meat thinly so it cooks fast.
Eggs: use eggs with the British Lion mark and wash your hands after handling raw egg. Cook eggs until solid if you are unsure about runny eggs for you or your guests: the Food Standards Agency's advice on runny eggs differs for some groups, so check the current guidance at food.gov.uk.
Cooked noodles and cold dishes: cooked starchy foods left at room temperature can grow bacteria (rice is the best-known case, and cooked noodles are treated the same way). Cool noodles quickly under cold water, put them in the fridge within about 1 hour, keep them covered, eat within 1 day, and don't leave a cold noodle dish out for more than about 2 hours. This is general food-safety guidance in line with the Rice courses; I haven't found a rule written specially for noodles.
Allergens and labels: gochujang and black bean paste (chunjang) are fermented pastes that usually contain soy and often wheat; soy sauce contains soy and wheat; sesame oil and seeds are a common allergen; anchovy broth contains fish; eggs are an allergen. Check labels, and use the vegetarian swaps given.
Checkpoint: can you do this now?
- I can balance sweet, salty, spicy, nutty and tangy flavours.
- I can cook glass noodles and season them while warm.
- I can fry a paste to make a smooth sauce.
- I can make a clean anchovy or vegetable broth.
- I check labels for soy, wheat, fish and sesame.
Next chapter
Cooking Skills: Noodles 2, chapter 5 is Chinese Regional Noodles: Sichuan numbing heat, northern fried sauces and home-style dishes.