Vietnamese Noodle Soups
Cooking Skills: Noodles 2
Chapter 2 · Vietnamese Noodle Soups
Skill goal
Make a clear, fragrant pho broth from charred aromatics and toasted spices, and finish the bowl with fresh herbs.
Shopping list for this chapter
The basics
Pho (pronounced "fuh") is a Vietnamese noodle soup with a clear, fragrant broth and a plate of fresh herbs. Its flavour comes from three things: onion and ginger charred until smoky, whole spices toasted until fragrant, and a gentle, long simmer.
The broth
- Char the onion and ginger under the grill or over a flame. It turns the sharp raw flavour sweet and smoky.
- Toast the spices: star anise, cinnamon, cloves and coriander seeds give pho its perfume. Use whole spices, not ground.
- Simmer gently: a rolling boil clouds the broth with fat and scum. Skim as it simmers.
- Season at the end: with fish sauce (salt and savour) and a little sugar, to balance. Taste and adjust.
The noodles and toppings
- Flat rice noodles (about 3 mm wide): soak or cook as the pack says, drain well and put in the bowl before the broth.
- The broth must be boiling-hot when it goes in the bowl.
- Serve the herbs on the side (Thai basil, coriander, mint), with lime, sliced chilli and hoisin and chilli sauces, so everyone finishes their own bowl.
| Pho | Meat | Broth time | Flavour |
|---|---|---|---|
| Quick chicken | Cooked chicken | 30 minutes | Light and fragrant |
| Beef | Simmered brisket | 3 hours | Deep and rich |
| Vegetable | Tofu and mushrooms | 30 minutes | Earthy and spiced |
Grill, spices, raw meat and herbs
Charring under the grill: grill the onion and ginger on a tray with the door or grill pan 10 cm from the heat, turn them with tongs and watch them, because charred vegetables can flare. Open a window or use the extractor fan, and never leave the grill unattended. Let them cool before handling. If anything catches fire, turn off the heat and keep the door shut: don't use water.Toasting spices: whole spices burn in seconds. Toast them in a dry pan over a medium heat, shaking the pan, for 1 to 2 minutes, until fragrant, then tip them out at once. Keep your face back, because the fumes can make you cough.
Raw pork, chicken and beef: wash your hands, board and knife after handling raw meat, and keep it away from cooked food and herbs. Cook chicken and pork until steaming hot with no pink and clear juices (70°C for 2 minutes). The beef here is simmered until tender, not served raw: don't pour hot broth over raw beef slices and call it cooked.
Bean sprouts and raw herbs: wash herbs well. Raw bean sprouts can carry bacteria, and the NHS advises pregnant women and other vulnerable people to cook them thoroughly: I have left them out of the herb plate. Use extra herbs, lettuce or blanched sprouts instead.
Try it
Level 1 · Start here
Quick chicken pho
A shortcut pho: charred onion and ginger and toasted spices make a bought stock taste fragrant and clean. The result is far better than the sum of its parts.
Ingredients (2 portions)
- 1 onion, halved
- 7 cm fresh ginger, halved lengthways
- 2 star anise
- 1 cinnamon stick
- 3 cloves
- 1.2 litres good chicken stock
- 1 tbsp fish sauce (or soy sauce)
- 1 tsp sugar
- 200 g flat rice noodles (about 3 mm wide)
- 150 g cooked chicken, shredded
- 1 handful Thai basil, coriander and mint leaves
- 1 lime, in wedges
- 1 red chilli, sliced (optional)
- 2 spring onions, sliced
- Char: put the onion halves (cut side up) and ginger on a tray under a hot grill for 8 to 10 minutes, turning once, until blackened in spots. Cool and rinse off the worst of the char.
- Toast: dry-fry the star anise, cinnamon and cloves in a pan for 1 to 2 minutes until fragrant.
- Simmer: put the stock, onion, ginger and spices in a pan. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook for 25 to 30 minutes. Strain, season with the fish sauce and sugar and taste.
- Soak or cook the rice noodles as the pack says and drain. Warm the chicken in some of the broth until steaming hot.
- Divide the noodles and chicken between bowls and ladle over the boiling-hot broth. Serve with the herbs, lime, chilli and spring onions on the side so each person adds their own.
Grill, spices, hot broth and allergens
Charring under the grill: grill the onion and ginger on a tray with the door or grill pan 10 cm from the heat, turn them with tongs and watch them, because charred vegetables can flare. Open a window or use the extractor fan, and never leave the grill unattended. Let them cool before handling. If anything catches fire, turn off the heat and keep the door shut: don't use water.Toasting spices: whole spices burn in seconds. Toast them in a dry pan over a medium heat, shaking the pan, for 1 to 2 minutes, until fragrant, then tip them out at once. Keep your face back, because the fumes can make you cough.
Allergens: fish sauce contains fish, hoisin sauce contains soy (and sometimes wheat and sesame) and rice noodles are usually gluten-free but check the label. Use soy sauce instead of fish sauce for a vegetarian or fish-free bowl.
Broth and leftovers: cool broth quickly (shallow containers, chilled within about 1 to 2 hours), keep it covered in the fridge for up to 2 days or freeze it, and reheat until boiling or steaming hot, once only. Keep noodles and herbs apart from the broth.
Level 2 · Long simmer
Beef pho with simmered brisket
Classic beef pho takes time. The brisket simmers for hours until tender and gives the broth body. The meat is cooked fully in the broth, and sliced afterwards: no raw beef.
Ingredients (3 portions)
- 400 g beef brisket or shin, in one piece
- 1.5 litres water or beef stock
- 1 onion, halved
- 7 cm fresh ginger, halved
- 2 star anise
- 1 cinnamon stick
- 1 tsp coriander seeds
- 3 cloves
- 2 tbsp fish sauce
- 1 tbsp sugar
- 200 g flat rice noodles
- 1 handful Thai basil, coriander and mint
- 1 lime, in wedges
- 2 spring onions, sliced
- Char the onion and ginger under the grill and toast the spices in a dry pan, as for the quick pho.
- Put the beef in a large pan, cover with water, bring to the boil for 5 minutes and drain, rinsing off the scum. Return to a clean pan with the 1.5 litres of water or stock, the onion, ginger and spices.
- Bring to a bare simmer and cook with the lid ajar for 2 hours 30 minutes to 3 hours, skimming off any scum, until the beef is very tender. Add the fish sauce and sugar for the last 15 minutes.
- Lift out the beef, rest for 10 minutes and slice thinly against the grain. Strain the broth and taste: adjust with fish sauce and sugar.
- Soak or cook the noodles and divide between bowls. Add the sliced beef, ladle over boiling-hot broth and serve with herbs, lime and spring onions.
Grill, spices, raw beef and hot broth
Charring under the grill: grill the onion and ginger on a tray with the door or grill pan 10 cm from the heat, turn them with tongs and watch them, because charred vegetables can flare. Open a window or use the extractor fan, and never leave the grill unattended. Let them cool before handling. If anything catches fire, turn off the heat and keep the door shut: don't use water.Toasting spices: whole spices burn in seconds. Toast them in a dry pan over a medium heat, shaking the pan, for 1 to 2 minutes, until fragrant, then tip them out at once. Keep your face back, because the fumes can make you cough.
Raw pork, chicken and beef: wash your hands, board and knife after handling raw meat, and keep it away from cooked food and herbs. Cook chicken and pork until steaming hot with no pink and clear juices (70°C for 2 minutes). The beef here is simmered until tender, not served raw: don't pour hot broth over raw beef slices and call it cooked.
Broth and leftovers: cool broth quickly (shallow containers, chilled within about 1 to 2 hours), keep it covered in the fridge for up to 2 days or freeze it, and reheat until boiling or steaming hot, once only. Keep noodles and herbs apart from the broth.
Allergens: fish sauce contains fish, hoisin sauce contains soy (and sometimes wheat and sesame) and rice noodles are usually gluten-free but check the label. Use soy sauce instead of fish sauce for a vegetarian or fish-free bowl.
Level 2 · Vegetarian
Vegetable pho
Dried shiitake mushrooms and charred aromatics give a vegetable broth real depth. Soy sauce stands in for fish sauce.
Ingredients (2 portions)
- 1 onion, halved
- 7 cm fresh ginger, halved
- 4 dried shiitake mushrooms
- 2 star anise
- 1 cinnamon stick
- 3 cloves
- 1.2 litres vegetable stock
- 2 tbsp soy sauce
- 1 tsp sugar
- 200 g flat rice noodles
- 200 g firm tofu, cubed and pan-fried
- 1 carrot, peeled into ribbons
- 1 handful herbs, lime and spring onions to serve
- Char the onion and ginger and toast the spices as for the quick pho. Soak the shiitake in 200 ml of boiling water for 20 minutes, then slice (keep the soaking water).
- Simmer the stock with the onion, ginger, spices, shiitake and their soaking water (leave the grit at the bottom of the bowl) for 25 to 30 minutes. Strain and season with soy sauce and sugar.
- Cook the noodles. Pan-fry the tofu in a little oil until golden. Add the carrot ribbons to the broth for the last minute.
- Divide the noodles between bowls, add the tofu and ladle over the hot broth. Serve with herbs, lime and spring onions.
Grill, spices, hot broth and allergens
Charring under the grill: grill the onion and ginger on a tray with the door or grill pan 10 cm from the heat, turn them with tongs and watch them, because charred vegetables can flare. Open a window or use the extractor fan, and never leave the grill unattended. Let them cool before handling. If anything catches fire, turn off the heat and keep the door shut: don't use water.Toasting spices: whole spices burn in seconds. Toast them in a dry pan over a medium heat, shaking the pan, for 1 to 2 minutes, until fragrant, then tip them out at once. Keep your face back, because the fumes can make you cough.
Allergens: soy sauce and tofu contain soy; soy sauce usually contains wheat.
Broth and leftovers: cool broth quickly (shallow containers, chilled within about 1 to 2 hours), keep it covered in the fridge for up to 2 days or freeze it, and reheat until boiling or steaming hot, once only. Keep noodles and herbs apart from the broth.
Level 3 · Grilled
Grilled pork and vermicelli bowl (bun cha-style)
Little grilled pork patties with a sweet-sour-salty dipping sauce, cold noodles, lettuce and plenty of herbs. Mix the sauce first and taste it: it should be bright.
Ingredients (3 portions)
- 300 g pork mince
- 1 shallot or small onion, finely chopped
- 2 garlic cloves, crushed
- 1 tbsp fish sauce (or soy sauce)
- 1 tbsp sugar
- 1 tsp black pepper
- 150 g rice vermicelli
- 1 round lettuce, leaves separated
- ½ cucumber, in matchsticks
- 1 handful mint, coriander and Thai basil
- 3 tbsp lime juice, for the dipping sauce
- 2 tbsp fish sauce, for the dipping sauce
- 2 tbsp sugar, for the dipping sauce
- 4 tbsp water, for the dipping sauce
- 1 carrot, in matchsticks, quick-pickled in 2 tbsp rice vinegar and 1 tsp sugar for 30 minutes
- Mix the pork, shallot, garlic, fish sauce, sugar and pepper and shape into 12 small, flat patties. Chill for 15 minutes.
- Make the dipping sauce: stir the lime juice, fish sauce, sugar and water together until the sugar dissolves. Add a little crushed garlic and chilli if you like.
- Soak the vermicelli as the pack says, rinse under cold water and drain well.
- Grill or pan-fry the patties for 4 to 5 minutes a side, until browned and cooked through with no pink and clear juices. Cut one open to check.
- Serve the patties warm with the noodles, lettuce, cucumber, herbs and pickled carrot. Put the dipping sauce in small bowls and dip or pour it over.
Raw pork, grilling and raw vegetables
Raw pork, chicken and beef: wash your hands, board and knife after handling raw meat, and keep it away from cooked food and herbs. Cook chicken and pork until steaming hot with no pink and clear juices (70°C for 2 minutes). The beef here is simmered until tender, not served raw: don't pour hot broth over raw beef slices and call it cooked.Bean sprouts and raw herbs: wash herbs well. Raw bean sprouts can carry bacteria, and the NHS advises pregnant women and other vulnerable people to cook them thoroughly: I have left them out of the herb plate. Use extra herbs, lettuce or blanched sprouts instead.
Allergens: fish sauce contains fish, hoisin sauce contains soy (and sometimes wheat and sesame) and rice noodles are usually gluten-free but check the label. Use soy sauce instead of fish sauce for a vegetarian or fish-free bowl.
Cooked noodles and cold dishes: cooked starchy foods left at room temperature can grow bacteria (rice is the best-known case, and cooked noodles are treated the same way). Cool noodles quickly under cold water, put them in the fridge within about 1 hour, keep them covered, eat within 1 day, and don't leave a cold noodle dish out for more than about 2 hours. This is general food-safety guidance in line with the Rice courses; I haven't found a rule written specially for noodles.
Experiments
Experiment
Charred or raw
Aromatics.
- Simmer two small pots of stock for 20 minutes, one with charred onion and ginger and one with raw. Taste both.
Look for: The charred pot tastes sweeter, rounder and smokier. The raw one tastes sharp and flat.
Experiment
Simmer time
20 minutes or 1 hour.
- Simmer two pots of spiced stock, one for 20 minutes and one for an hour. Taste.
Look for: The longer broth has deeper spice and aroma; the shorter is cleaner and lighter. Watch it doesn't boil dry: add a little water.
Experiment
Toasted or untoasted spices
A dry pan.
- Make two small pots of stock with the same spices, one toasted and one untoasted.
Look for: The toasted spices smell richer and warmer and the broth has more depth. The untoasted ones taste thin and a little raw.
Experiment
Herbs on the side or in the bowl
When to add them.
- Put herbs in one bowl before the broth and leave them on the side for another.
Look for: The herbs in the bowl wilt and turn dark and soft; the ones on the side stay green, fresh and fragrant. That is why they come on a plate.
Tasting notes
| What I tried | Method or amount | What I saw | What I thought | Will I do it again? |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Quick chicken pho | ||||
| Beef pho | ||||
| Vegetable pho | ||||
| Grilled pork bowl | ||||
| Charred or raw | ||||
| Simmer time | ||||
| Toasted spices | ||||
| Herbs on the side |
Troubleshooting
| Problem | Likely cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Cloudy broth | Boiled hard, or scum not skimmed | Simmer gently; skim; strain through a fine sieve |
| Bitter broth | Burnt spices or charred too far | Toast gently; char until blackened in spots only |
| Bland broth | Not enough spice or seasoning | Add a little more fish sauce, sugar or spice; simmer longer |
| Mushy noodles | Left in the hot broth | Add noodles to the bowl just before the broth |
| Tough brisket | Not simmered long enough | Keep simmering gently until it is tender |
| Greasy broth | Fat not skimmed | Chill and lift the fat; or skim with a spoon |
Grill, spices, raw meat, hot broth and allergens
Charring under the grill: grill the onion and ginger on a tray with the door or grill pan 10 cm from the heat, turn them with tongs and watch them, because charred vegetables can flare. Open a window or use the extractor fan, and never leave the grill unattended. Let them cool before handling. If anything catches fire, turn off the heat and keep the door shut: don't use water.Toasting spices: whole spices burn in seconds. Toast them in a dry pan over a medium heat, shaking the pan, for 1 to 2 minutes, until fragrant, then tip them out at once. Keep your face back, because the fumes can make you cough.
Raw pork, chicken and beef: wash your hands, board and knife after handling raw meat, and keep it away from cooked food and herbs. Cook chicken and pork until steaming hot with no pink and clear juices (70°C for 2 minutes). The beef here is simmered until tender, not served raw: don't pour hot broth over raw beef slices and call it cooked.
Hot soup: a ladle of boiling broth causes a serious scald. Keep pan handles turned in, ladle into bowls on a stable surface away from the edge, carry bowls with both hands and let children's bowls cool first. Noodles hold heat, so blow on them before eating.
Allergens: fish sauce contains fish, hoisin sauce contains soy (and sometimes wheat and sesame) and rice noodles are usually gluten-free but check the label. Use soy sauce instead of fish sauce for a vegetarian or fish-free bowl.
Broth and leftovers: cool broth quickly (shallow containers, chilled within about 1 to 2 hours), keep it covered in the fridge for up to 2 days or freeze it, and reheat until boiling or steaming hot, once only. Keep noodles and herbs apart from the broth.
Checkpoint: can you do this now?
- I can char aromatics and toast spices safely.
- I can simmer a clear, fragrant broth.
- I can cook brisket until tender and slice it.
- I can serve pho with a plate of herbs.
- I cool and store broth safely.
Next chapter
Cooking Skills: Noodles 2, chapter 3 is Japanese Noodle Dishes: udon, yakisoba and cold ramen.