Sesame, Peanut and Chilli Sauces

Cooking Skills: Noodles 1

Chapter 5 · Sesame, Peanut and Chilli Sauces

Skill goal
Balance salty, sweet, sour, nutty and hot in a noodle sauce, and handle hot oil and fresh ingredients safely.

Shopping list for this chapter

The basics

A noodle sauce does the seasoning, so it has to be balanced. Most good noodle sauces combine five things: salty, sweet, sour, nutty and hot. If a sauce tastes flat, something is missing: if it tastes harsh, something is too strong. This chapter teaches you to taste and fix.

Salty Soy sauce, miso, fish sauce Sweet Sugar, honey, brown sugar Sour Rice vinegar, lime, tamarind Nutty Tahini, peanut butter, sesame oil Hot Chilli flakes, chilli oil, ginger
Figure 5. Five flavours to balance. Taste the sauce on a spoon of plain noodle and fix whichever is missing.

Taste and fix

If it tastes...Add
Harsh or too saltyA little sugar, or water, or something nutty
Flat or dullRice vinegar or lime juice, and a pinch of salt
Too sharp or sourSugar or honey
Thin and wateryMore tahini or peanut butter, or let it stand
Too thickWarm water or noodle cooking water, a spoonful at a time
Not hot enoughChilli sauce, chilli flakes or a little chilli oil

Sauce tips

  • Taste on a noodle: a sauce tastes saltier on its own than on plain noodles.
  • Thin with warm water or noodle cooking water: the starch in the cooking water helps the sauce cling.
  • Toast sesame seeds in a dry pan for 2 minutes until golden for a deeper flavour.
  • Use toasted sesame oil as a finishing oil, not for frying: it burns easily.
  • Dress the noodles while they are hot (for hot dishes) so they absorb the flavour.
Hot oil, fresh ingredients and allergens
Pouring hot oil: this is the most dangerous step in the course. Use a deep, dry, heatproof metal or ceramic bowl (not thin glass, which can crack, and never a damp bowl, because water on hot oil makes it spit violently). Heat the oil only until it shimmers, pour slowly with your face and arms well back, wear long sleeves, keep children and pets out of the room, and leave it to cool completely before you taste or bottle it. If oil smokes, take it off the heat. Never put water on an oil fire: turn off the heat and cover it with a lid or a damp cloth.

Keeping sauces: sauces made with fresh garlic, ginger or spring onion should be covered and kept in the fridge, and eaten within about 2 to 3 days. Never keep a homemade oil with fresh garlic or herbs at room temperature, because it can grow dangerous bacteria. The chilli oil here uses only dried ingredients; keep it in the fridge too and use it within about 2 weeks. These times are cautious general guidance, not an official rule for these sauces.

Peanuts and sesame: peanuts and sesame are common allergens, and a tiny trace can cause a serious reaction. Check labels, keep them away from anyone who is allergic and label any dish or sauce you share.

Try it

Level 1 · Start here

Soy-sesame sauce

10 minutesenough for 2 portions of noodlesbalancing salty, sweet, sour and nutty

The base of dozens of noodle dishes. Stir it together, taste it on a spoon of noodles and adjust: more sugar if it is harsh, more vinegar if it is flat.

Ingredients (2 portions)

  • 3 tbsp soy sauce
  • 1 tbsp toasted sesame oil
  • 1 tbsp rice vinegar
  • 2 tsp sugar
  • 1 tsp grated fresh ginger
  • 1 small garlic clove, crushed
  • 200 g cooked noodles, to dress the sauce (about 75 g dried)
  1. Stir the soy sauce, sesame oil, vinegar, sugar, ginger and garlic together until the sugar dissolves.
  2. Taste a little on a cooked noodle, not off the spoon, because the noodle softens the saltiness. Add more sugar, vinegar or sesame oil to taste.
  3. Toss with the hot or cold noodles and serve. Keep any leftover sauce covered in the fridge.
Fresh garlic and ginger, and allergens
Keeping sauces: sauces made with fresh garlic, ginger or spring onion should be covered and kept in the fridge, and eaten within about 2 to 3 days. Never keep a homemade oil with fresh garlic or herbs at room temperature, because it can grow dangerous bacteria. The chilli oil here uses only dried ingredients; keep it in the fridge too and use it within about 2 weeks. These times are cautious general guidance, not an official rule for these sauces.

Allergens: soy sauce contains soy and wheat. Sesame, tahini, peanut butter and (in some sauces) fish sauce are common allergens. Check every label.
Level 2 · Creamy

Peanut sauce

10 minutesenough for 3 portions of noodlesmaking a smooth, pourable nut sauce

A thick peanut butter turned into a silky sauce with warm water. It also makes a good dip for vegetables and skewers. Add the water slowly: it looks split, then comes together.

Ingredients (3 portions)

  • 4 tbsp smooth peanut butter
  • 2 tbsp soy sauce
  • 1 tbsp lime juice
  • 1 tbsp honey or sugar
  • 1 tsp chilli sauce, or to taste
  • 1 small garlic clove, crushed
  • 100 ml warm water (or coconut milk)
  1. Put the peanut butter in a bowl with the soy sauce, lime juice, honey, chilli sauce and garlic and stir to a stiff paste.
  2. Add the warm water a spoonful at a time, whisking, until the sauce is smooth and pours like double cream. It thickens as it stands, so thin it again with warm water.
  3. Taste and adjust with more lime, honey or chilli. Toss with noodles, or use as a dip.
Peanut allergy and keeping
Peanuts and sesame: peanuts and sesame are common allergens, and a tiny trace can cause a serious reaction. Check labels, keep them away from anyone who is allergic and label any dish or sauce you share.

Keeping sauces: sauces made with fresh garlic, ginger or spring onion should be covered and kept in the fridge, and eaten within about 2 to 3 days. Never keep a homemade oil with fresh garlic or herbs at room temperature, because it can grow dangerous bacteria. The chilli oil here uses only dried ingredients; keep it in the fridge too and use it within about 2 weeks. These times are cautious general guidance, not an official rule for these sauces.
Level 3 · Hot oil

Chilli oil

20 minutes plus coolingabout 200 mlpouring hot oil over dried spices safely

A fragrant, crunchy chilli oil to spoon over noodles, eggs and dumplings. Dried ingredients only: no fresh garlic. Read the safety box first and take it slowly.

Ingredients (8 portions)

  • 4 tbsp mild chilli flakes
  • 1 tsp sugar
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 2 tbsp sesame seeds
  • 1 star anise (optional)
  • 200 ml neutral oil (sunflower or vegetable)
  1. Put the chilli flakes, sugar, salt and sesame seeds in a deep, dry, heatproof metal or ceramic bowl.
  2. Heat the oil with the star anise in a small pan over a medium heat until it shimmers (about 2 to 3 minutes). It is ready when a single chilli flake dropped in sizzles gently: if it smokes, it is too hot, so take it off the heat and wait a minute.
  3. Lift out the star anise. Pour about a third of the oil slowly over the chilli flakes: it will sizzle and foam. Stir with a long metal spoon, then add the rest.
  4. Leave to cool completely, uncovered, for 1 to 2 hours. Spoon into a clean, dry jar and keep in the fridge for up to about 2 weeks.
Pouring hot oil
Pouring hot oil: this is the most dangerous step in the course. Use a deep, dry, heatproof metal or ceramic bowl (not thin glass, which can crack, and never a damp bowl, because water on hot oil makes it spit violently). Heat the oil only until it shimmers, pour slowly with your face and arms well back, wear long sleeves, keep children and pets out of the room, and leave it to cool completely before you taste or bottle it. If oil smokes, take it off the heat. Never put water on an oil fire: turn off the heat and cover it with a lid or a damp cloth.

Chillies: wash your hands thoroughly after handling chillies or chilli flakes and don't touch your eyes or face. Wear gloves for very hot chillies. Chilli oil is very hot: taste a drop first.

Keeping sauces: sauces made with fresh garlic, ginger or spring onion should be covered and kept in the fridge, and eaten within about 2 to 3 days. Never keep a homemade oil with fresh garlic or herbs at room temperature, because it can grow dangerous bacteria. The chilli oil here uses only dried ingredients; keep it in the fridge too and use it within about 2 weeks. These times are cautious general guidance, not an official rule for these sauces.
Level 3 · Fresh

Ginger and spring onion sauce

15 minutesenough for 3 portions of noodlesflavouring with raw aromatics and a splash of hot oil

A bright, savoury Cantonese-style sauce: raw ginger and spring onion lightly cooked by hot oil. It is wonderful over plain noodles, rice and steamed fish or chicken.

Ingredients (3 portions)

  • 6 spring onions, very finely chopped
  • 3 tbsp fresh ginger, finely grated
  • ½ tsp fine salt
  • 4 tbsp neutral oil
  • 1 tbsp soy sauce
  • 1 tsp rice vinegar (optional)
  1. Mix the spring onions, ginger and salt in a heatproof metal or ceramic bowl.
  2. Heat the oil in a small pan until it shimmers. Pour it over the spring onion mixture: it will sizzle. Stir in the soy sauce and vinegar and leave for 10 minutes.
  3. Taste and add more salt or soy sauce if needed. Spoon over hot noodles. Keep covered in the fridge and use within 2 days.
Hot oil and fresh ingredients
Pouring hot oil: this is the most dangerous step in the course. Use a deep, dry, heatproof metal or ceramic bowl (not thin glass, which can crack, and never a damp bowl, because water on hot oil makes it spit violently). Heat the oil only until it shimmers, pour slowly with your face and arms well back, wear long sleeves, keep children and pets out of the room, and leave it to cool completely before you taste or bottle it. If oil smokes, take it off the heat. Never put water on an oil fire: turn off the heat and cover it with a lid or a damp cloth.

Keeping sauces: sauces made with fresh garlic, ginger or spring onion should be covered and kept in the fridge, and eaten within about 2 to 3 days. Never keep a homemade oil with fresh garlic or herbs at room temperature, because it can grow dangerous bacteria. The chilli oil here uses only dried ingredients; keep it in the fridge too and use it within about 2 weeks. These times are cautious general guidance, not an official rule for these sauces.

Allergens: soy sauce contains soy and wheat. Sesame, tahini, peanut butter and (in some sauces) fish sauce are common allergens. Check every label.

Experiments

Experiment

Sweet and sour

Balancing the sauce.

  1. Make the soy-sesame sauce three ways: with no sugar, as written, and with double the sugar. Taste each on a plain noodle.

Look for: No sugar tastes sharp and harsh. The written version is balanced. Double sugar tastes sweet and sticky. This is the balance you are learning to judge.

Experiment

Noodle water or plain water

Thinning the sauce.

  1. Thin the peanut sauce with cooking water from the noodles in one bowl and with plain warm water in another. Toss each with noodles.

Look for: The noodle water sauce clings to the noodles better and tastes more cohesive. The plain water sauce can slide off.

Experiment

Toasted or untoasted

Sesame seeds.

  1. Toast half of your sesame seeds in a dry pan for 2 minutes. Sprinkle each half on noodles and compare.

Look for: The toasted seeds are nuttier, more aromatic and crunchier. The untoasted ones taste pale and bland.

Experiment

Heat level

Little, medium and lots.

  1. Make three small portions of peanut sauce with 1/2 tsp, 1 tsp and 2 tsp of chilli sauce. Taste each (with a glass of milk handy).

Look for: Note the level you like. Heat builds as you eat, so a sauce that tastes mild at the first bite can be hot by the last.

Tasting notes

What I triedMethod or amountWhat I sawWhat I thoughtWill I do it again?
Soy-sesame sauce
Peanut sauce
Chilli oil
Ginger and spring onion sauce
Sweet and sour
Noodle water or plain water
Toasted or untoasted
Heat level

Troubleshooting

ProblemLikely causeWhat to do
Sauce too saltyToo much soy or misoAdd sugar, a splash of water and something nutty; use less next time
Peanut sauce stiff or splitNot enough water, or added too fastWhisk in warm water a spoonful at a time
Sauce slides off the noodlesWet noodles or thin sauceDrain well; use a little cooking water; thicken with more paste
Chilli oil bitterOil too hot, flakes burntPour at the shimmer, not smoking; use a cooler oil
Garlic tastes harshRaw garlic too strongUse less, or soften it briefly in warm oil
Sauce tastes flatMissing acid or saltAdd vinegar or lime; a pinch of salt
Hot oil, chillies, allergens and keeping
Pouring hot oil: this is the most dangerous step in the course. Use a deep, dry, heatproof metal or ceramic bowl (not thin glass, which can crack, and never a damp bowl, because water on hot oil makes it spit violently). Heat the oil only until it shimmers, pour slowly with your face and arms well back, wear long sleeves, keep children and pets out of the room, and leave it to cool completely before you taste or bottle it. If oil smokes, take it off the heat. Never put water on an oil fire: turn off the heat and cover it with a lid or a damp cloth.

Chillies: wash your hands thoroughly after handling chillies or chilli flakes and don't touch your eyes or face. Wear gloves for very hot chillies. Chilli oil is very hot: taste a drop first.

Keeping sauces: sauces made with fresh garlic, ginger or spring onion should be covered and kept in the fridge, and eaten within about 2 to 3 days. Never keep a homemade oil with fresh garlic or herbs at room temperature, because it can grow dangerous bacteria. The chilli oil here uses only dried ingredients; keep it in the fridge too and use it within about 2 weeks. These times are cautious general guidance, not an official rule for these sauces.

Peanuts and sesame: peanuts and sesame are common allergens, and a tiny trace can cause a serious reaction. Check labels, keep them away from anyone who is allergic and label any dish or sauce you share.

Allergens: soy sauce contains soy and wheat. Sesame, tahini, peanut butter and (in some sauces) fish sauce are common allergens. Check every label.
Checkpoint: can you do this now?
  • I can balance a sauce across salty, sweet, sour, nutty and hot.
  • I taste a sauce on a noodle and fix what is missing.
  • I can thin a thick sauce with noodle water.
  • I can pour hot oil over spices safely.
  • I keep fresh-ingredient sauces in the fridge and use them quickly.
Next chapter
Cooking Skills: Noodles 1, chapter 6 is Handmade Noodles: mixing, resting and cutting noodle dough.