Sesame, Peanut and Chilli Sauces
Cooking Skills: Noodles 1
Chapter 5 · Sesame, Peanut and Chilli Sauces
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The basics
A noodle sauce does the seasoning, so it has to be balanced. Most good noodle sauces combine five things: salty, sweet, sour, nutty and hot. If a sauce tastes flat, something is missing: if it tastes harsh, something is too strong. This chapter teaches you to taste and fix.
Taste and fix
| If it tastes... | Add |
|---|---|
| Harsh or too salty | A little sugar, or water, or something nutty |
| Flat or dull | Rice vinegar or lime juice, and a pinch of salt |
| Too sharp or sour | Sugar or honey |
| Thin and watery | More tahini or peanut butter, or let it stand |
| Too thick | Warm water or noodle cooking water, a spoonful at a time |
| Not hot enough | Chilli sauce, chilli flakes or a little chilli oil |
Sauce tips
- Taste on a noodle: a sauce tastes saltier on its own than on plain noodles.
- Thin with warm water or noodle cooking water: the starch in the cooking water helps the sauce cling.
- Toast sesame seeds in a dry pan for 2 minutes until golden for a deeper flavour.
- Use toasted sesame oil as a finishing oil, not for frying: it burns easily.
- Dress the noodles while they are hot (for hot dishes) so they absorb the flavour.
Keeping sauces: sauces made with fresh garlic, ginger or spring onion should be covered and kept in the fridge, and eaten within about 2 to 3 days. Never keep a homemade oil with fresh garlic or herbs at room temperature, because it can grow dangerous bacteria. The chilli oil here uses only dried ingredients; keep it in the fridge too and use it within about 2 weeks. These times are cautious general guidance, not an official rule for these sauces.
Peanuts and sesame: peanuts and sesame are common allergens, and a tiny trace can cause a serious reaction. Check labels, keep them away from anyone who is allergic and label any dish or sauce you share.
Try it
Soy-sesame sauce
The base of dozens of noodle dishes. Stir it together, taste it on a spoon of noodles and adjust: more sugar if it is harsh, more vinegar if it is flat.
Ingredients (2 portions)
- 3 tbsp soy sauce
- 1 tbsp toasted sesame oil
- 1 tbsp rice vinegar
- 2 tsp sugar
- 1 tsp grated fresh ginger
- 1 small garlic clove, crushed
- 200 g cooked noodles, to dress the sauce (about 75 g dried)
- Stir the soy sauce, sesame oil, vinegar, sugar, ginger and garlic together until the sugar dissolves.
- Taste a little on a cooked noodle, not off the spoon, because the noodle softens the saltiness. Add more sugar, vinegar or sesame oil to taste.
- Toss with the hot or cold noodles and serve. Keep any leftover sauce covered in the fridge.
Allergens: soy sauce contains soy and wheat. Sesame, tahini, peanut butter and (in some sauces) fish sauce are common allergens. Check every label.
Peanut sauce
A thick peanut butter turned into a silky sauce with warm water. It also makes a good dip for vegetables and skewers. Add the water slowly: it looks split, then comes together.
Ingredients (3 portions)
- 4 tbsp smooth peanut butter
- 2 tbsp soy sauce
- 1 tbsp lime juice
- 1 tbsp honey or sugar
- 1 tsp chilli sauce, or to taste
- 1 small garlic clove, crushed
- 100 ml warm water (or coconut milk)
- Put the peanut butter in a bowl with the soy sauce, lime juice, honey, chilli sauce and garlic and stir to a stiff paste.
- Add the warm water a spoonful at a time, whisking, until the sauce is smooth and pours like double cream. It thickens as it stands, so thin it again with warm water.
- Taste and adjust with more lime, honey or chilli. Toss with noodles, or use as a dip.
Keeping sauces: sauces made with fresh garlic, ginger or spring onion should be covered and kept in the fridge, and eaten within about 2 to 3 days. Never keep a homemade oil with fresh garlic or herbs at room temperature, because it can grow dangerous bacteria. The chilli oil here uses only dried ingredients; keep it in the fridge too and use it within about 2 weeks. These times are cautious general guidance, not an official rule for these sauces.
Chilli oil
A fragrant, crunchy chilli oil to spoon over noodles, eggs and dumplings. Dried ingredients only: no fresh garlic. Read the safety box first and take it slowly.
Ingredients (8 portions)
- 4 tbsp mild chilli flakes
- 1 tsp sugar
- 1 tsp salt
- 2 tbsp sesame seeds
- 1 star anise (optional)
- 200 ml neutral oil (sunflower or vegetable)
- Put the chilli flakes, sugar, salt and sesame seeds in a deep, dry, heatproof metal or ceramic bowl.
- Heat the oil with the star anise in a small pan over a medium heat until it shimmers (about 2 to 3 minutes). It is ready when a single chilli flake dropped in sizzles gently: if it smokes, it is too hot, so take it off the heat and wait a minute.
- Lift out the star anise. Pour about a third of the oil slowly over the chilli flakes: it will sizzle and foam. Stir with a long metal spoon, then add the rest.
- Leave to cool completely, uncovered, for 1 to 2 hours. Spoon into a clean, dry jar and keep in the fridge for up to about 2 weeks.
Chillies: wash your hands thoroughly after handling chillies or chilli flakes and don't touch your eyes or face. Wear gloves for very hot chillies. Chilli oil is very hot: taste a drop first.
Keeping sauces: sauces made with fresh garlic, ginger or spring onion should be covered and kept in the fridge, and eaten within about 2 to 3 days. Never keep a homemade oil with fresh garlic or herbs at room temperature, because it can grow dangerous bacteria. The chilli oil here uses only dried ingredients; keep it in the fridge too and use it within about 2 weeks. These times are cautious general guidance, not an official rule for these sauces.
Ginger and spring onion sauce
A bright, savoury Cantonese-style sauce: raw ginger and spring onion lightly cooked by hot oil. It is wonderful over plain noodles, rice and steamed fish or chicken.
Ingredients (3 portions)
- 6 spring onions, very finely chopped
- 3 tbsp fresh ginger, finely grated
- ½ tsp fine salt
- 4 tbsp neutral oil
- 1 tbsp soy sauce
- 1 tsp rice vinegar (optional)
- Mix the spring onions, ginger and salt in a heatproof metal or ceramic bowl.
- Heat the oil in a small pan until it shimmers. Pour it over the spring onion mixture: it will sizzle. Stir in the soy sauce and vinegar and leave for 10 minutes.
- Taste and add more salt or soy sauce if needed. Spoon over hot noodles. Keep covered in the fridge and use within 2 days.
Keeping sauces: sauces made with fresh garlic, ginger or spring onion should be covered and kept in the fridge, and eaten within about 2 to 3 days. Never keep a homemade oil with fresh garlic or herbs at room temperature, because it can grow dangerous bacteria. The chilli oil here uses only dried ingredients; keep it in the fridge too and use it within about 2 weeks. These times are cautious general guidance, not an official rule for these sauces.
Allergens: soy sauce contains soy and wheat. Sesame, tahini, peanut butter and (in some sauces) fish sauce are common allergens. Check every label.
Experiments
Sweet and sour
Balancing the sauce.
- Make the soy-sesame sauce three ways: with no sugar, as written, and with double the sugar. Taste each on a plain noodle.
Look for: No sugar tastes sharp and harsh. The written version is balanced. Double sugar tastes sweet and sticky. This is the balance you are learning to judge.
Noodle water or plain water
Thinning the sauce.
- Thin the peanut sauce with cooking water from the noodles in one bowl and with plain warm water in another. Toss each with noodles.
Look for: The noodle water sauce clings to the noodles better and tastes more cohesive. The plain water sauce can slide off.
Toasted or untoasted
Sesame seeds.
- Toast half of your sesame seeds in a dry pan for 2 minutes. Sprinkle each half on noodles and compare.
Look for: The toasted seeds are nuttier, more aromatic and crunchier. The untoasted ones taste pale and bland.
Heat level
Little, medium and lots.
- Make three small portions of peanut sauce with 1/2 tsp, 1 tsp and 2 tsp of chilli sauce. Taste each (with a glass of milk handy).
Look for: Note the level you like. Heat builds as you eat, so a sauce that tastes mild at the first bite can be hot by the last.
Tasting notes
| What I tried | Method or amount | What I saw | What I thought | Will I do it again? |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Soy-sesame sauce | ||||
| Peanut sauce | ||||
| Chilli oil | ||||
| Ginger and spring onion sauce | ||||
| Sweet and sour | ||||
| Noodle water or plain water | ||||
| Toasted or untoasted | ||||
| Heat level |
Troubleshooting
| Problem | Likely cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Sauce too salty | Too much soy or miso | Add sugar, a splash of water and something nutty; use less next time |
| Peanut sauce stiff or split | Not enough water, or added too fast | Whisk in warm water a spoonful at a time |
| Sauce slides off the noodles | Wet noodles or thin sauce | Drain well; use a little cooking water; thicken with more paste |
| Chilli oil bitter | Oil too hot, flakes burnt | Pour at the shimmer, not smoking; use a cooler oil |
| Garlic tastes harsh | Raw garlic too strong | Use less, or soften it briefly in warm oil |
| Sauce tastes flat | Missing acid or salt | Add vinegar or lime; a pinch of salt |
Chillies: wash your hands thoroughly after handling chillies or chilli flakes and don't touch your eyes or face. Wear gloves for very hot chillies. Chilli oil is very hot: taste a drop first.
Keeping sauces: sauces made with fresh garlic, ginger or spring onion should be covered and kept in the fridge, and eaten within about 2 to 3 days. Never keep a homemade oil with fresh garlic or herbs at room temperature, because it can grow dangerous bacteria. The chilli oil here uses only dried ingredients; keep it in the fridge too and use it within about 2 weeks. These times are cautious general guidance, not an official rule for these sauces.
Peanuts and sesame: peanuts and sesame are common allergens, and a tiny trace can cause a serious reaction. Check labels, keep them away from anyone who is allergic and label any dish or sauce you share.
Allergens: soy sauce contains soy and wheat. Sesame, tahini, peanut butter and (in some sauces) fish sauce are common allergens. Check every label.
- I can balance a sauce across salty, sweet, sour, nutty and hot.
- I taste a sauce on a noodle and fix what is missing.
- I can thin a thick sauce with noodle water.
- I can pour hot oil over spices safely.
- I keep fresh-ingredient sauces in the fridge and use them quickly.