Fruit Sorbets
Cooking Skills: Ice Cream 1
Chapter 4 · Fruit Sorbets
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The basics
Sorbet is a sweetened, frozen fruit purée, with no milk, cream or eggs. It is light, refreshing and naturally dairy-free. Because it has no fat, the balance of sugar matters even more: too little and it freezes into a solid, icy block; too much and it will not set.
The method
- Dissolve the sugar first in a syrup, so the texture is smooth, not gritty.
- Taste the base before freezing, and make it a little sweeter than you want: freezing dulls sweetness.
- Use ripe fruit. Freezing mutes flavour, so strong-tasting fruit makes the best sorbet.
- Add acid (lemon or lime juice) to brighten the flavour.
- Chill the base well, freeze in a shallow tub and beat it with a fork every 30 minutes.
- Eat it within about a week: sorbet gets hard and icy as it ages.
| Fruit | Sugar per 400 g purée (rough guide) | Acid |
|---|---|---|
| Lemon (juice) | 150 g with 300 ml water | Already acid |
| Raspberry | 100 g with 100 ml water | 1 tbsp lemon juice |
| Mango | 60 g with 100 ml water | 2 tbsp lime juice |
| Strawberry | 80 g with 100 ml water | 1 tbsp lemon juice |
Sugar syrup: to make a simple syrup, stir equal weights of sugar and water in a pan over a low heat until the sugar dissolves, simmer for 1 minute and cool completely. Keep the pan handle turned in: hot syrup scalds badly.
Keeping sorbet: sorbet is best eaten within about a week (it turns hard and icy as it ages). Let it stand for 5 to 10 minutes before scooping, and break it up in a blender or food processor for 20 seconds if it has frozen solid.
Try it
Lemon sorbet
The simplest sorbet: sweet-sour lemon, light and sharp. Dissolving the sugar into a syrup keeps the texture smooth. Taste before freezing: it should taste a little too sweet, because freezing dulls sweetness.
Ingredients (4 portions)
- 150 ml lemon juice (about 4 lemons)
- 150 g caster sugar
- 300 ml water, divided
- 1 strip of lemon zest (optional)
- Heat the sugar with 150 ml of the water (and the zest) over a low heat until the sugar dissolves, then simmer for 1 minute. Cool completely and take out the zest.
- Stir in the lemon juice and the remaining 150 ml of cold water. Taste: it should be sweet and sharp. Add a little sugar or juice to adjust. Chill for 1 hour.
- Pour into a shallow tub and freeze, beating with a fork every 30 minutes for about 3 to 4 hours, until it is a fine, scoopable ice.
- Let it stand for 5 minutes before scooping.
Keeping sorbet: sorbet is best eaten within about a week (it turns hard and icy as it ages). Let it stand for 5 to 10 minutes before scooping, and break it up in a blender or food processor for 20 seconds if it has frozen solid.
Knife safety: cut on a stable board (a damp cloth underneath) and tuck your guiding fingertips back (the claw). Cut a banana or mango in a way that gives a flat side to rest on.
Raspberry sorbet
Raspberries make a vivid, intense sorbet. Sieve out the seeds for a smooth texture. The sugar syrup and the lemon juice balance their natural tartness.
Ingredients (4 portions)
- 400 g raspberries (fresh, or frozen and boiled for a minute, then cooled)
- 100 g caster sugar
- 100 ml water
- 1 tbsp lemon juice
- Make a syrup with the sugar and water, simmer for 1 minute and cool.
- Blend the raspberries and press through a sieve into a bowl, scraping the pulp and discarding the seeds. Stir in the syrup and lemon juice and taste.
- Chill for at least 1 hour. Freeze in a shallow tub, beating every 30 minutes, for 3 to 4 hours.
Sugar syrup: to make a simple syrup, stir equal weights of sugar and water in a pan over a low heat until the sugar dissolves, simmer for 1 minute and cool completely. Keep the pan handle turned in: hot syrup scalds badly.
Keeping sorbet: sorbet is best eaten within about a week (it turns hard and icy as it ages). Let it stand for 5 to 10 minutes before scooping, and break it up in a blender or food processor for 20 seconds if it has frozen solid.
Mango sorbet
Mango is naturally thick and sweet, so it needs less sugar and some water and lime juice to lift it. Use very ripe mango: unripe fruit tastes starchy.
Ingredients (4 portions)
- 2 ripe mangoes (about 500 g flesh)
- 60 g caster sugar
- 100 ml water
- 2 tbsp lime juice
- Peel the mangoes and cut the flesh off the stones. Make a syrup with the sugar and water, simmer for 1 minute and cool.
- Blend the mango flesh until completely smooth with the syrup and lime juice. Taste and add more lime if it is flat.
- Chill for 1 hour, then freeze in a shallow tub, beating every 30 minutes for 3 to 4 hours.
Sugar syrup: to make a simple syrup, stir equal weights of sugar and water in a pan over a low heat until the sugar dissolves, simmer for 1 minute and cool completely. Keep the pan handle turned in: hot syrup scalds badly.
Keeping sorbet: sorbet is best eaten within about a week (it turns hard and icy as it ages). Let it stand for 5 to 10 minutes before scooping, and break it up in a blender or food processor for 20 seconds if it has frozen solid.
Strawberry and basil sorbet
Basil and strawberry are a classic pairing. Steep the basil in the hot syrup for just 5 minutes: longer makes it bitter. Strain it out before blending.
Ingredients (4 portions)
- 400 g strawberries, hulled
- 80 g caster sugar
- 100 ml water
- 6 basil leaves
- 1 tbsp lemon juice
- Heat the sugar and water until the sugar dissolves and simmer for 1 minute. Take off the heat, add the basil leaves, press them under and leave to infuse for 5 minutes. Strain and cool.
- Blend the strawberries to a smooth purée and stir in the cooled syrup and lemon juice. Taste: it should be fruity, with a hint of basil.
- Chill for 1 hour, then freeze in a shallow tub, beating every 30 minutes for 3 to 4 hours.
Sugar syrup: to make a simple syrup, stir equal weights of sugar and water in a pan over a low heat until the sugar dissolves, simmer for 1 minute and cool completely. Keep the pan handle turned in: hot syrup scalds badly.
Keeping sorbet: sorbet is best eaten within about a week (it turns hard and icy as it ages). Let it stand for 5 to 10 minutes before scooping, and break it up in a blender or food processor for 20 seconds if it has frozen solid.
Experiments
Sugar amount
Too little, right, too much.
- Make three small batches of raspberry sorbet with 40 g, 70 g and 100 g of sugar to 400 g of fruit. Freeze them overnight.
Look for: The low-sugar batch is rock hard and tastes sharp. The high-sugar batch is soft, almost slushy, and sweet. The middle batch scoops. Notice the differences.
Stirring or not
Beaten or left.
- Freeze a lemon sorbet with beating every 30 minutes and another with none.
Look for: The beaten one is fine and scoopable. The unbeaten one is a solid block of coarse ice. Beating (or a machine) is what makes sorbet.
Fruit ripeness
Ripe or under-ripe.
- Make small batches of mango or strawberry sorbet with a very ripe fruit and a firm one.
Look for: The ripe fruit makes a sweet, fragrant sorbet. The firm one tastes thin and starchy, and no sugar will fix it.
A splash of lemon
With and without.
- Make the mango sorbet with the lime juice and with none. Taste each.
Look for: Without acid the sorbet is sweet and flat; with it the mango flavour tastes brighter. A little acid lifts nearly every sorbet.
Tasting notes
| What I tried | Method or amount | What I saw | What I thought | Will I do it again? |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lemon sorbet | ||||
| Raspberry sorbet | ||||
| Mango sorbet | ||||
| Strawberry and basil | ||||
| Sugar amount | ||||
| Stirring or not | ||||
| Ripe or under-ripe | ||||
| With and without lemon |
Troubleshooting
| Problem | Likely cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Rock hard | Too little sugar | Add more sugar next time; stand it 10 minutes; blend it briefly |
| Slushy, won't set | Too much sugar | Add more purée or lemon juice; refreeze |
| Icy and coarse | No stirring, or slow freeze | Use a shallow tub and beat every 30 minutes |
| Bland flavour | Under-ripe fruit, no acid | Use ripe fruit and add lemon or lime juice |
| Seedy | Seeds not sieved out | Press the purée through a sieve |
| Bitter basil | Infused too long | Infuse for 5 minutes then strain |
Sugar syrup: to make a simple syrup, stir equal weights of sugar and water in a pan over a low heat until the sugar dissolves, simmer for 1 minute and cool completely. Keep the pan handle turned in: hot syrup scalds badly.
Keeping sorbet: sorbet is best eaten within about a week (it turns hard and icy as it ages). Let it stand for 5 to 10 minutes before scooping, and break it up in a blender or food processor for 20 seconds if it has frozen solid.
- I can make a sugar syrup safely.
- I can balance fruit, sugar and acid.
- I can taste a base and adjust it before freezing.
- I can freeze a sorbet with beating.
- I eat sorbet within about a week.