Smoking at Home
Cooking Skills: Fish and Shellfish 2
Chapter 7 · Smoking at Home
Shopping list for this chapter
The basics
Hot-smoking cooks fish gently in a closed pot filled with smoke. You can do it on the hob with a wok or deep pan, a sheet of foil, a rack and a lid, using wood chips or a mix of black tea, rice and sugar. The fish takes 8 to 12 minutes, comes out moist and flaky, and tastes wonderful. It is quite different from cold-smoking (done below 30°C for days), which this course does not teach, because it needs controlled equipment and carries a listeria risk.
Brine the fish briefly in salt and sugar first for flavour and a firmer texture, dry it so smoke sticks, and keep the lid sealed. Test with a thermometer: at least 63°C in the thickest part (general guidance). Smoking makes smoke and the smell lingers, so open the windows and use the extractor. For fish brining ideas see Cooking Skills: Fish and Shellfish 2, chapter 6, and for grilling kippers Cooking Skills: Fish and Shellfish 1, chapter 7.
The method
- Brine the fish for 20 to 30 minutes in salt and sugar water, then pat completely dry.
- Line a wok with foil, add the smoking mix, and set a rack above it with the fish on top.
- Heat until the mix smokes, then lower the heat to medium, put the lid on and seal gaps with foil.
- Smoke for 8 to 12 minutes, turning off the heat and resting the lid on for 5 minutes.
- Check the thermometer: 63°C in the thickest part, flesh opaque and flaking.
| Smoke | Fuel | Fish | Time (approximate) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Wok smoking | Wood chips | Salmon fillet | 8 to 10 minutes |
| Tea smoking | Black tea, rice, sugar | Trout fillet | 8 to 10 minutes |
| Kippers (ready-smoked) | None, just grilled | Kippers | 4 to 5 minutes |
| Smoked trout salad | Ready-smoked fish | Smoked trout | Cold |
Hot-smoked means cooked: this course teaches hot-smoking only, which cooks the fish. It is done when the thickest part reaches at least 63°C (general guidance) and the flesh flakes. Cold-smoking at low temperatures is not taught because it needs controlled equipment and carries a listeria risk. Eat home-smoked fish within about 2 days.
Hot smoking mix and foil: the smoking mix gets extremely hot, and the foil-lined pan and lid stay scorching afterwards. Use oven gloves, lift the lid away from your face, and leave the pan to cool on a heatproof surface before tipping the mix into a metal bin or a sink of cold water outdoors.
Allergens: fish is one of the 14 major allergens, and cross-contact is easy: it can pass on boards, oil, tongs and pans. Crustaceans (prawns), molluscs (mussels, scallops), gluten, milk and egg also appear in fish recipes. Always tell guests what is in a dish.
Try it
Wok-smoked salmon
The standard method. Brine the salmon briefly, dry it, and smoke it over wood chips in a foil-lined wok. The smoke sticks best to a dry surface. Keep the lid tight and the heat medium.
Ingredients (2 portions)
- 2 salmon fillets (about 150 g each), skin on
- 1 tbsp coarse sea salt
- 1 tbsp caster sugar
- 500 ml cold water
- 2 tbsp wood chips
- 1 lemon, in wedges
- Dissolve the salt and sugar in the water, soak the salmon for 20 minutes, then rinse and pat completely dry.
- Line a wok with foil, scatter the chips, set a rack above and lay the salmon on it. Heat until smoking, cover tightly and lower to a medium heat.
- Smoke for 8 to 10 minutes, then turn off and rest with the lid on for 5 minutes. Check it flakes and reads at least 63°C.
Hot-smoked means cooked: this course teaches hot-smoking only, which cooks the fish. It is done when the thickest part reaches at least 63°C (general guidance) and the flesh flakes. Cold-smoking at low temperatures is not taught because it needs controlled equipment and carries a listeria risk. Eat home-smoked fish within about 2 days.
Hot smoking mix and foil: the smoking mix gets extremely hot, and the foil-lined pan and lid stay scorching afterwards. Use oven gloves, lift the lid away from your face, and leave the pan to cool on a heatproof surface before tipping the mix into a metal bin or a sink of cold water outdoors.
Is it cooked?: fish is done when the flesh turns opaque (no longer glassy) and flakes easily with a fork. A probe thermometer reads about 63°C in the thickest part (general guidance). Take it off the heat a minute early, because it keeps cooking as it rests.
Tea-smoked trout
No wood chips needed. A mix of black tea, rice and sugar smokes beautifully and tastes faintly sweet. Serve with a squeeze of lemon and new potatoes. It works with any firm fish.
Ingredients (2 portions)
- 2 trout fillets (about 150 g each), skin on
- 1 tsp flaked sea salt
- 3 tbsp loose black tea
- 3 tbsp uncooked long-grain rice
- 2 tbsp brown sugar
- 1 lemon, in wedges
- Salt the trout, leave for 15 minutes and pat dry. Mix the tea, rice and sugar and spread on a foil-lined wok.
- Set a rack above, lay the trout on it, heat until the mix smokes and cover tightly over a medium heat.
- Smoke for 8 to 10 minutes, then rest with the lid on for 5 minutes. Serve warm or cold with lemon.
Hot smoking mix and foil: the smoking mix gets extremely hot, and the foil-lined pan and lid stay scorching afterwards. Use oven gloves, lift the lid away from your face, and leave the pan to cool on a heatproof surface before tipping the mix into a metal bin or a sink of cold water outdoors.
Hot-smoked means cooked: this course teaches hot-smoking only, which cooks the fish. It is done when the thickest part reaches at least 63°C (general guidance) and the flesh flakes. Cold-smoking at low temperatures is not taught because it needs controlled equipment and carries a listeria risk. Eat home-smoked fish within about 2 days.
Allergens: fish is one of the 14 major allergens, and cross-contact is easy: it can pass on boards, oil, tongs and pans. Crustaceans (prawns), molluscs (mussels, scallops), gluten, milk and egg also appear in fish recipes. Always tell guests what is in a dish.
Grilled kippers
A kipper is a split herring that is salted and smoked for you. At breakfast or supper, brush it with butter and grill for a few minutes. Serve with brown bread, butter and lemon, and warn everyone about the fine bones.
Ingredients (2 portions)
- 2 kipper fillets or whole kippers
- 20 g butter
- 1 lemon, in wedges
- 2 slices of brown bread
- 1 pinch black pepper
- Heat the grill to high. Lay the kippers skin-side down on a lined tray and dot with butter.
- Grill for 4 to 5 minutes without turning, until sizzling and hot through.
- Serve with lemon, pepper and buttered brown bread.
Smoked and salty fish: kippers and smoked trout are salty, and smoked fish is one to limit if you are pregnant or cooking for young children; check current NHS advice. Kippers have fine bones, so warn everyone.
Bones: even fillets can hide thin pin bones. Run a clean finger along the fillet and pull any bones out with tweezers, and warn children and anyone you serve. Whole sardines and mackerel have fine bones that are best taken out.
Smoked and oily fish for some people: pregnant women, young children, the elderly and people with weak immune systems are advised to limit oily fish and shark, swordfish and marlin, and to avoid raw or lightly cooked shellfish and, for some, cold-smoked fish. This is general guidance, not medical advice: check current health guidance if it applies to you.
A smoked trout salad
Use your own smoked trout, cooled, or a bought hot-smoked fillet. Flake it over waterside greens with warm potatoes, crisp radishes and a horseradish cream. The smoke is strong, so lemon and cucumber lift it.
Ingredients (2 portions)
- 250 g hot-smoked trout, flaked
- 300 g baby new potatoes
- 60 g watercress or rocket
- ½ cucumber, sliced
- 4 radishes, sliced
- 3 tbsp crème fraîche
- 1 tbsp horseradish sauce
- 1 lemon, juice
- 1 tbsp chopped chives
- Boil the potatoes for 15 to 20 minutes, drain and halve. Mix the crème fraîche, horseradish and half the lemon juice.
- Arrange the leaves, cucumber, radishes and warm potatoes on plates.
- Flake the trout over the top, spoon on the cream, add the rest of the lemon and the chives.
Hot liquid and steam: hot milk, stock and poaching liquid scald badly and steam burns faster than boiling water. Keep the handle turned in, lift lids away from your face, use a slotted spoon or fish slice over the pan, and never carry a full pan across a busy kitchen.
Allergens: fish is one of the 14 major allergens, and cross-contact is easy: it can pass on boards, oil, tongs and pans. Crustaceans (prawns), molluscs (mussels, scallops), gluten, milk and egg also appear in fish recipes. Always tell guests what is in a dish.
Allergens: contains fish, milk and sometimes mustard (horseradish sauce).
Experiments
Wood chips or tea
Flavour.
- Smoke two fillets, one over wood chips and one over tea, rice and sugar.
Look for: Wood gives a deeper, resinous smoke; tea gives a lighter, sweeter and slightly floral one.
Lid sealed or loose
Smoke.
- Smoke one fillet with a tight lid and another with a loose one.
Look for: The sealed pan flavours the fish well; the loose lid lets the smoke escape and the fish is plain.
Brined or not
Moisture.
- Smoke one brined and one unbrined fillet.
Look for: The brined fillet is moist and well seasoned; the unbrined one is drier and blander.
Resting
Texture.
- Slice one fillet straight away and another after resting with the lid on for 5 minutes.
Look for: The rested fillet is more even and moist, and the smoky flavour settles into the flesh.
Tasting notes
| What I tried | Method or amount | What I saw | What I thought | Will I do it again? |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wok-smoked salmon | ||||
| Tea-smoked trout | ||||
| Grilled kippers | ||||
| Smoked trout salad | ||||
| Wood chips or tea | ||||
| Lid sealed or loose | ||||
| Brined or not | ||||
| Resting |
Troubleshooting
| Problem | Likely cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Fish tastes bitter or sooty | Too much smoke or burnt mix | Use less mix; keep the heat medium |
| Fish not smoky | Lid loose or too little mix | Seal with foil and use 2 to 3 tbsp of mix |
| Fish is raw inside | Fillet too thick | Smoke longer, or finish in a 180°C oven |
| Fish is dry | Overdone or not brined | Brine first and rest with the lid on |
| Smoke alarm goes off | Too much smoke | Open windows, run the extractor, and use less mix |
| Fish sticks to the rack | Rack not oiled | Oil the rack lightly |
Hot smoking mix and foil: the smoking mix gets extremely hot, and the foil-lined pan and lid stay scorching afterwards. Use oven gloves, lift the lid away from your face, and leave the pan to cool on a heatproof surface before tipping the mix into a metal bin or a sink of cold water outdoors.
Leftover fish: cool cooked fish quickly, refrigerate it within 1 to 2 hours, and eat it within about 1 day (2 at most). Reheat only once, until steaming hot all the way through. Do not refreeze fish that was frozen and thawed unless you cook it first.
- I can set up a hob smoker safely.
- I can brine and dry fish for smoking.
- I know the safe temperature for smoked fish.
- I can use tea as a smoking mix.
- I know why this course doesn't teach cold-smoking.