Pan-Frying Fish
Cooking Skills: Fish and Shellfish 1
Chapter 2 · Pan-Frying Fish
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The basics
Pan-frying is the fastest, tastiest way to cook a fillet, and the one most people get wrong. Three things matter. The fish must be very dry, because water in the pan makes steam and stops browning. The pan must be hot enough that the fish sizzles at once. And you must leave it alone: skin that is moved too soon tears and sticks, but skin left for a few minutes releases by itself and is crisp.
Cook most of the way on the skin side, then turn briefly. A thin fillet cooks in 3 to 4 minutes in all, a thick one in 6 to 8. Watch the colour change as the flesh turns opaque, climbing up the side of the fillet from the pan; when it is about two-thirds of the way up, turn it. A sauce of lemon and butter is in Cooking Skills: Sauces 1, chapter 6. For frying chips to go with fish see Cooking Skills: Potatoes 1, chapter 4.
The method
- Pat the fillets very dry, especially the skin, and score thick skin lightly so it does not curl.
- Heat a non-stick pan over a medium-high heat with a thin layer of oil until it shimmers.
- Season and lay the fish away from you, skin side down, pressing gently with a fish slice for 10 seconds to stop it curling.
- Cook without moving it until the flesh is opaque two-thirds of the way up the side.
- Turn once, add butter if you like, cook 1 to 2 minutes, then rest on a warm plate.
| Fish | Thickness | Skin-side time (approximate) | Other side |
|---|---|---|---|
| Plaice (flat) | About 1 cm | 2 minutes | 1 minute |
| Sea bass | About 2 cm | 3 to 4 minutes | 1 minute |
| Salmon | About 3 cm | 4 to 5 minutes | 2 to 3 minutes |
| Mackerel | About 2 cm | 3 minutes | 1 to 2 minutes |
Is it cooked?: fish is done when the flesh turns opaque (no longer glassy) and flakes easily with a fork. A probe thermometer reads about 63°C in the thickest part (general guidance). Take it off the heat a minute early, because it keeps cooking as it rests.
Bones: even fillets can hide thin pin bones. Run a clean finger along the fillet and pull any bones out with tweezers, and warn children and anyone you serve. Whole sardines and mackerel have fine bones that are best taken out.
Allergens: fish is one of the 14 major allergens, and cross-contact is easy: it can pass on boards, oil, tongs and pans. Crustaceans (prawns), molluscs (mussels, scallops), gluten, milk and egg also appear in fish recipes. Always tell guests what is in a dish.
Try it
Pan-fried sea bass with crisp skin
Sea bass has thin skin that crisps beautifully. Make sure the fillets are completely dry. A thin fillet needs no turning at all if you spoon hot oil over the top for the last minute.
Ingredients (2 portions)
- 2 skin-on sea bass fillets (about 120 g each)
- 1 tbsp rapeseed or sunflower oil
- ½ tsp flaked sea salt
- 1 lemon, cut in wedges
- Pat the fillets dry. Heat the oil in a non-stick pan until it shimmers, season the fish and lay it skin side down away from you.
- Press for 10 seconds, then leave for 3 to 4 minutes until the skin is crisp and the flesh is opaque two-thirds of the way up.
- Turn and cook for 30 seconds, or spoon the oil over for 1 minute. Serve skin side up, with lemon.
Raw fish: keep raw fish on its own board and plate, away from food that won't be cooked. Wash your hands, boards and knives in hot soapy water afterwards, and store raw fish on a plate on the bottom shelf of the fridge so it can't drip onto other food.
Is it cooked?: fish is done when the flesh turns opaque (no longer glassy) and flakes easily with a fork. A probe thermometer reads about 63°C in the thickest part (general guidance). Take it off the heat a minute early, because it keeps cooking as it rests.
Crispy-skin salmon
Salmon is forgiving: it stays moist even a little past done. Start skin side down in a hot pan, cook most of the way through on that side, then flip for the last minutes. Salmon is traditionally eaten slightly translucent at the very centre; to be safe, cook it until it just flakes.
Ingredients (2 portions)
- 2 skin-on salmon fillets (about 150 g each), pin-boned
- 1 tbsp rapeseed or sunflower oil
- ½ tsp flaked sea salt
- 1 tbsp butter
- 1 tsp lemon juice
- Pat the salmon very dry and season. Heat the oil until it shimmers and lay the fish skin side down, pressing for 10 seconds.
- Cook for 4 to 5 minutes without moving it, until the flesh is opaque most of the way up. Turn and cook 2 to 3 minutes more.
- Add the butter and lemon juice to the pan, spoon over the fish and rest for 2 minutes.
Raw fish: keep raw fish on its own board and plate, away from food that won't be cooked. Wash your hands, boards and knives in hot soapy water afterwards, and store raw fish on a plate on the bottom shelf of the fridge so it can't drip onto other food.
Is it cooked?: fish is done when the flesh turns opaque (no longer glassy) and flakes easily with a fork. A probe thermometer reads about 63°C in the thickest part (general guidance). Take it off the heat a minute early, because it keeps cooking as it rests.
Smoked and oily fish for some people: pregnant women, young children, the elderly and people with weak immune systems are advised to limit oily fish and shark, swordfish and marlin, and to avoid raw or lightly cooked shellfish and, for some, cold-smoked fish. This is general guidance, not medical advice: check current health guidance if it applies to you.
Plaice meunière (no wine)
Meunière means "miller's wife": the fish is dusted with flour, fried in butter and served with the browned butter, lemon and parsley. Flat fish are delicate, so cook quickly and turn once. There is no wine; lemon does the work.
Ingredients (2 portions)
- 2 plaice fillets (about 150 g each)
- 2 tbsp plain flour, seasoned with salt and pepper
- 40 g butter
- 1 tbsp rapeseed or sunflower oil
- 1 lemon, juiced
- 1 tbsp capers, rinsed
- 1 tbsp chopped parsley
- Pat the fish dry and dust lightly with the seasoned flour, shaking off the excess. Heat the oil and half the butter until foaming.
- Fry the fillets for 2 minutes on the first side until golden, turn and cook for 1 minute. Lift onto warm plates.
- Add the remaining butter to the pan; when it turns nutty brown, add the lemon juice, capers and parsley and pour over the fish.
Allergens: fish is one of the 14 major allergens, and cross-contact is easy: it can pass on boards, oil, tongs and pans. Crustaceans (prawns), molluscs (mussels, scallops), gluten, milk and egg also appear in fish recipes. Always tell guests what is in a dish.
Allergens: contains fish, gluten and milk.
Mackerel with mustard and a tomato salad
Mackerel is oily, strong and needs something sharp. Brush mustard on the flesh side only, not the skin, which would burn. The skin crisps beautifully if the fillet is dry and the pan hot. Serve with a quick tomato and red onion salad.
Ingredients (2 portions)
- 2 mackerel fillets, skin on
- 2 tsp wholegrain mustard
- 1 tbsp rapeseed or sunflower oil
- 200 g cherry tomatoes, halved
- ½ small red onion, thinly sliced
- 1 tbsp lemon juice
- 1 tbsp olive oil
- Toss the tomatoes and onion with the lemon juice, olive oil and a pinch of salt and leave for 10 minutes.
- Pat the mackerel dry and brush the flesh side with mustard. Heat the oil and lay the fillets skin side down, pressing for 10 seconds.
- Cook for 3 minutes until the skin is crisp, turn for 1 to 2 minutes, and serve on the salad.
Bones: even fillets can hide thin pin bones. Run a clean finger along the fillet and pull any bones out with tweezers, and warn children and anyone you serve. Whole sardines and mackerel have fine bones that are best taken out.
Smoked and oily fish for some people: pregnant women, young children, the elderly and people with weak immune systems are advised to limit oily fish and shark, swordfish and marlin, and to avoid raw or lightly cooked shellfish and, for some, cold-smoked fish. This is general guidance, not medical advice: check current health guidance if it applies to you.
Allergens: contains fish and mustard.
Experiments
Dry or wet skin
Crispness.
- Pat one fillet very dry and leave another damp, then fry both identically.
Look for: The dry skin crisps and releases; the damp one steams, sticks and goes soft. Dry is the first rule of crisp skin.
Cold or hot pan
Sticking.
- Lay one fillet in a cold pan and heat it up, and one in a hot pan.
Look for: The cold-start fillet sticks and cooks unevenly; the hot-pan fillet sizzles at once and releases when ready.
Pressing the fillet
Curling.
- Cook one fillet pressed flat for 10 seconds and one left alone.
Look for: The unpressed fillet curls, leaving the middle of the skin raw; pressing keeps the whole skin on the pan.
Butter at the start or the end
Burning.
- Fry one fillet in butter from the start and one in oil, adding butter at the end.
Look for: Butter from the start browns and burns; oil first with butter added at the end gives the nutty flavour without burning.
Tasting notes
| What I tried | Method or amount | What I saw | What I thought | Will I do it again? |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Pan-fried sea bass | ||||
| Crispy-skin salmon | ||||
| Plaice meunière | ||||
| Mackerel with mustard | ||||
| Dry or wet skin | ||||
| Cold or hot pan | ||||
| Pressing the fillet | ||||
| Butter at the start or the end |
Troubleshooting
| Problem | Likely cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Skin sticks to the pan | Wet fish, cold pan or moved too soon | Dry the fish, heat the pan, and wait until it releases |
| Fillet curls up | Skin shrinks | Press for 10 seconds; score thick skin |
| Pale, soggy skin | Pan not hot or fish wet | Hotter pan, drier fish |
| Dry fish | Overcooked | Take it off a minute early and rest |
| Burnt butter | Added too early or heat too high | Add the butter at the end over a lower heat |
| Fish breaks when turned | Turned too early or wrong tool | Wait until it releases; use a wide, flexible fish slice |
Raw fish: keep raw fish on its own board and plate, away from food that won't be cooked. Wash your hands, boards and knives in hot soapy water afterwards, and store raw fish on a plate on the bottom shelf of the fridge so it can't drip onto other food.
Leftover fish: cool cooked fish quickly, refrigerate it within 1 to 2 hours, and eat it within about 1 day (2 at most). Reheat only once, until steaming hot all the way through. Do not refreeze fish that was frozen and thawed unless you cook it first.
- I can pat fish dry and season it just before cooking.
- I can heat a pan until the oil shimmers.
- I can leave skin alone until it releases.
- I can turn fish once without breaking it.
- I can make a quick lemon and butter finish.