Baked Custards
Cooking Skills: Eggs 2
Chapter 3 · Baked Custards
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The basics
A baked custard is the same idea as stirred custard (egg proteins thickening milk), but the oven does the stirring for you. The danger is the same too: too hot and the egg overcooks, turns grainy and weeps liquid. The answer is gentle, even heat, which usually means a water bath.
- Oven: low, 150°C fan (170°C conventional, gas 3). Custard sets at about 80°C, and a hot oven pushes it past that around the edges.
- Water bath (bain-marie): stand the dishes in a roasting tin and pour hot water from the kettle into the tin until it comes halfway up the dishes. The water keeps the temperature around the custard at no more than 100°C and cooks it evenly.
- Dishes: ramekins (about 150 ml) or a 1 litre ovenproof dish. A deeper dish takes longer.
- The jiggle test: gently shake a dish. A set custard has a small wobble in the very middle, like a set jelly, but doesn't ripple across the surface. It firms up as it cools.
- Strain the mixture through a sieve before it goes in the dishes, for a silky texture and no stringy bits of white.
- Skim the bubbles off the top before baking, because they turn into holes.
Try it
Baked egg custard
Simple, old-fashioned and just right for learning the jiggle test. Warm or chilled.
Ingredients (4 portions)
- 500 ml semi-skimmed milk
- 3 medium eggs
- 40 g caster sugar
- 1 tsp vanilla extract
- Grating of nutmeg
- A little butter, for greasing
- Heat the oven to 150°C fan (170°C conventional, gas 3). Grease four 150 ml ramekins and stand them in a roasting tin. Boil the kettle.
- Heat the milk in a pan until steaming (not boiling). Whisk the eggs, sugar and vanilla in a bowl, then pour the hot milk onto them in a thin stream, whisking.
- Strain into a jug, skim off any bubbles, and divide between the ramekins. Grate a little nutmeg over each.
- Pour hot water into the tin until it comes halfway up the ramekins. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, until set but with a slight wobble in the middle.
- Lift out of the water and cool. Eat warm, or chill for 2 hours.
Crème caramel
A baked custard turned upside-down onto its own caramel sauce. It looks smart and takes no more skill than the last recipe, apart from the caramel.
Ingredients (4 portions)
- 75 g granulated sugar, for the caramel
- 2 tbsp water
- 500 ml semi-skimmed milk
- 3 medium eggs
- 1 medium egg yolk
- 40 g caster sugar
- 1 tsp vanilla extract
The caramel
- Put the granulated sugar and water in a small, light-coloured pan over medium heat. Don't stir: just swirl the pan gently until the sugar dissolves.
- Boil without stirring for 4 to 6 minutes, until it turns a deep amber (the colour of a conker). Watch it closely, because it goes from amber to burnt in seconds.
- Pour at once into the bottom of four 150 ml ramekins, tilting to coat. Leave to set.
The custard
- Heat the oven to 150°C fan (170°C conventional, gas 3). Warm the milk until steaming. Whisk the eggs, yolk, caster sugar and vanilla and pour on the milk, whisking.
- Strain over the caramel in the ramekins. Stand them in a roasting tin, add hot water halfway up and bake for 30 to 35 minutes, until set with a slight wobble.
- Cool, then chill for at least 4 hours (overnight is best, because the caramel needs to melt into a sauce).
- To serve, run a thin knife round the edge, put a plate on top, flip it over firmly and give it a shake. The custard drops out with the caramel running down it.
Bread and butter pudding (lighter)
A baked custard with bread and fruit in it. It uses more milk and less cream than the traditional recipe, and one spoonful of jam.
Ingredients (4 portions)
- 4 slices day-old white or brioche bread, crusts left on
- 15 g butter, softened
- 1 tbsp apricot jam
- 40 g raisins or sultanas
- 3 medium eggs
- 400 ml semi-skimmed milk
- 100 ml single cream
- 2 tbsp caster sugar
- ½ tsp ground cinnamon
- A little extra butter, for greasing
- Heat the oven to 160°C fan (180°C conventional, gas 4). Grease a 1 litre ovenproof dish.
- Butter the bread thinly, spread a little jam on each slice and cut each into 4 triangles. Layer them in the dish, overlapping, scattering the raisins between.
- Whisk the eggs, milk, cream and sugar and pour over the bread. Press the bread down gently and leave for 15 minutes to soak.
- Sprinkle the cinnamon and a spoonful of sugar over the top. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, until the custard is set and the top is golden and crisp.
- Rest for 5 minutes and serve warm.
Creamy rice pudding with an egg finish
A stovetop rice pudding made richer with a single yolk stirred in at the end. It's a gentle lesson in tempering.
Ingredients (2 portions)
- 50 g pudding rice
- 400 ml whole milk
- 1 tbsp caster sugar
- 1 medium egg yolk
- ½ tsp vanilla extract
- Grating of nutmeg
- Put the rice, milk and sugar in a medium pan and bring to a gentle simmer. Cook on a low heat for 25 to 30 minutes, stirring often, until the rice is soft and the mixture creamy.
- Beat the yolk in a small bowl. Take the pan off the heat, spoon 2 tbsp of the hot rice into the yolk and mix quickly (this tempers it). Stir the yolk back into the pan.
- Return to a very low heat for 1 minute, stirring, without boiling. Add the vanilla and a grating of nutmeg.
- Serve warm with berries or a spoon of jam.
Experiments
Water bath vs no water bath
Does a bain-marie make a difference?
- Make the baked egg custard in four ramekins. Bake two in a water bath and two on the tray, at 150°C fan.
- Take both out at the same time and cool.
- Cut each open and compare.
Look for: Smooth and silky against slightly firmer, with tiny holes or curdled edges. Which would you serve to friends?
150°C vs 180°C
See what too hot does to a custard.
- Make one batch of baked egg custard. Bake two ramekins at 150°C fan in a water bath and two at 180°C fan in a water bath.
- Take them out when each is just set, noting the time.
Look for: Faster is not better: the hotter ones set quicker but are more likely to weep and have a rubbery edge.
The jiggle test
Learn to judge doneness without a thermometer.
- Bake four ramekins together. Take one out at 25, 30, 35 and 40 minutes.
- Jiggle each when you take it out, then cool and cut.
Look for: How the wobble changes, and which minute gave the texture you like. That is the timing for your oven.
Tasting notes
| What I tried | Temperature or time | What I saw | What I thought | Will I do it again? |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Baked egg custard | ||||
| Crème caramel | ||||
| Bread and butter pudding | ||||
| Rice pudding with egg | ||||
| Water bath vs none | ||||
| 150°C vs 180°C | ||||
| Jiggle test times |
Troubleshooting
| Problem | Likely cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Custard is watery or weeping | Baked too hot or too long | Lower the temperature, use a water bath, and take it out while it still wobbles |
| Holes and bubbles | Whisked too hard, or oven too hot | Whisk gently, skim the bubbles, strain before baking |
| Not set in the middle | Not baked long enough | Bake 5 more minutes. The middle should wobble only slightly |
| Skin and cracks on top | Oven too hot, or no water bath | Use a water bath and lower the temperature, or cover loosely with foil |
| Crème caramel won't come out | Not chilled long enough, or caramel not melted | Chill overnight; stand the ramekin in hot water for 20 seconds before turning out |
| Burnt caramel | Cooked too long | Take it off at deep amber; start again, because a burnt caramel is bitter |
| Soggy bread pudding | Not enough baking, or too much liquid | Bake until the top is golden and the custard just set |
- I can set a custard in the oven with a water bath.
- I can recognise a set custard by the jiggle test.
- I can make caramel without burning it, and I know how to stay safe with it.
- I can turn out a crème caramel.
- I know how long my oven takes to set a custard in a ramekin.