Caramels, Honeycomb and Nougat-style Sweets

Cooking Skills: Chocolate 2

Chapter 4 · Caramels, Honeycomb and Nougat-style Sweets

Skill goal
Cook sugar to the right stage for chewy caramel and crisp honeycomb, safely.

Shopping list for this chapter

The basics

Sugar sweets are made by cooking sugar to a precise temperature: the hotter and the longer it cooks, the harder it sets. Chewy caramel stops at about 118 to 122°C, honeycomb goes on to about 150°C, and a quick nut-bar caramel stops at a gentle bubble. This is the most dangerous chapter in the course: hot sugar is the hottest thing in the kitchen, so the safety boxes matter most here. Children should not help with the sugar work.

Chewy caramel Cooked with cream to 118 to 122°C Honeycomb Sugar to about 150°C, then soda Colour Amber, not dark: it changes in seconds Cool Nothing leaves the pan until it is cold Cut Oiled knife; set overnight if soft
Figure 4. Different sweets stop at different temperatures. Temperatures are approximate: watch the colour and the thermometer together.

The method

  • Use a large, heavy pan and a sugar thermometer. A big pan matters for honeycomb, which foams up.
  • Have everything ready first: warm cream, oiled tin, sifted bicarbonate, thermometer clipped on.
  • Don't stir once the sugar has dissolved: swirl the pan, or brush the sides with water if crystals form.
  • Stand back when adding cream or bicarbonate.
  • Nothing leaves the pan until it is cold, and leave caramel to set fully before you cut it.
SweetCooked to (approx.)TextureKeeps
Salted caramels118 to 122°CChewyAbout 2 weeks, airtight
HoneycombAbout 150°C, then bicarbonateLight, crispAbout a week, airtight and dry
Dipped honeycomb barkHoneycomb plus tempered chocolateCrisp1 to 2 weeks
Nut and caramel barA gentle bubble, not a high temperatureChewy, nuttyAbout a week

Temperatures and keeping times are general guidance. Use the thermometer together with the colour.

Very hot sugar, foaming and cream
Hot sugar: sugar syrup and caramel are far hotter than boiling water, and they stick to skin and burn badly. Use a large, heavy pan, keep the handle turned in, stand back when adding cream or bicarbonate, and keep a bowl of cold water nearby. Nothing leaves the pan until it has cooled, and children should not help with this chapter's sugar work.

Honeycomb foams up: when the bicarbonate goes in, the hot sugar rises to three or four times its volume in seconds. Use a large, deep, heavy pan, whisk quickly and stand back, and pour at once. Never lean over the pan, and never touch the foam.

Adding cream: warm the cream first and pour it in slowly, with the pan off the heat and your arm well back. Cold cream makes the sugar spit and seize into a lump; if it does, return it to a low heat and stir until it melts again.

Try it

Level 1 · Start here

Salted caramels

35 minutes plus 4 hours settingabout 25 caramelscooking sugar and cream to a chewy set

A buttery, chewy caramel with a hint of salt. The sugar is cooked to a golden colour, the warm cream goes in carefully, and the mixture is cooked to about 118 to 122°C. The final temperature decides how soft or chewy it is.

Ingredients (25 portions)

  • 150 g caster sugar
  • 40 g golden syrup
  • 150 ml double cream, warmed
  • 30 g butter
  • 1 tsp sea salt flakes
  • 1 15 cm square tin, lined with parchment and lightly oiled
  1. Warm the cream in a small pan and keep it nearby. Put the sugar and syrup in a large heavy pan over a medium heat, stir until the sugar dissolves, then stop stirring.
  2. Cook, swirling, until it is a deep golden amber (about 5 to 7 minutes). Take it off the heat and stand back.
  3. Pour in the warm cream slowly, then the butter, stirring. Return to the heat and cook to 118 to 122°C (about 5 minutes), stirring. Pour into the tin and sprinkle the salt on top.
  4. Leave for at least 4 hours, then lift out and cut into squares with an oiled knife. Wrap each piece in parchment.
Very hot sugar, cream, thermometer and cutting
Hot sugar: sugar syrup and caramel are far hotter than boiling water, and they stick to skin and burn badly. Use a large, heavy pan, keep the handle turned in, stand back when adding cream or bicarbonate, and keep a bowl of cold water nearby. Nothing leaves the pan until it has cooled, and children should not help with this chapter's sugar work.

Adding cream: warm the cream first and pour it in slowly, with the pan off the heat and your arm well back. Cold cream makes the sugar spit and seize into a lump; if it does, return it to a low heat and stir until it melts again.

Sugar thermometer: use a thermometer that is rated for hot sugar (up to about 180°C), clip it to the pan without letting it touch the bottom, and put it in warm water, not cold, after use so it doesn't crack. The temperatures here are approximate: use them as a guide with the colour.

Tins for hot sugar: line the tin with baking parchment and oil it lightly, and put the tin on a heatproof board or folded tea towel. Never pour hot sugar into a plastic or glass dish, and don't move the tin until it is cold.

Cutting caramel: leave the set caramel for at least 4 hours or overnight, then cut with a large oiled knife, pressing straight down. A warm knife cuts soft caramel cleanly, and a wet or cold one drags.

Keeping: wrap caramels individually in baking parchment and keep them in an airtight tin in a cool place for about 2 weeks (general guidance). Honeycomb goes sticky in damp air: store it in an airtight tin with a sachet of silica gel or a dry slice of bread, and eat within about a week.
Level 2 · Foam

Honeycomb (cinder toffee)

25 minutes plus 1 hour settingabout 15 piecescooking sugar to a hard stage and foaming it

A light, crisp, golden sweet with a bubbly texture. The sugar is cooked to about 150°C, then bicarbonate of soda is whisked in: it releases bubbles that set in the toffee. It foams dramatically, so you need a big pan and a steady nerve.

Ingredients (15 portions)

  • 150 g caster sugar
  • 60 g golden syrup
  • 2 tsp bicarbonate of soda, sifted
  • 1 20 cm square tin, lined with parchment and lightly oiled
  1. Put the sugar and syrup in a large, deep heavy pan over a medium heat and stir until the sugar dissolves. Cook without stirring until it reaches about 150°C and is a deep golden colour (about 6 to 8 minutes).
  2. Take it off the heat, add the sifted bicarbonate all at once and whisk quickly for 3 seconds. It will foam up. Pour straight into the tin without spreading it.
  3. Leave to set for 1 hour, untouched, then break into pieces.
Very hot sugar, foaming, teeth and keeping
Hot sugar: sugar syrup and caramel are far hotter than boiling water, and they stick to skin and burn badly. Use a large, heavy pan, keep the handle turned in, stand back when adding cream or bicarbonate, and keep a bowl of cold water nearby. Nothing leaves the pan until it has cooled, and children should not help with this chapter's sugar work.

Honeycomb foams up: when the bicarbonate goes in, the hot sugar rises to three or four times its volume in seconds. Use a large, deep, heavy pan, whisk quickly and stand back, and pour at once. Never lean over the pan, and never touch the foam.

Sugar thermometer: use a thermometer that is rated for hot sugar (up to about 180°C), clip it to the pan without letting it touch the bottom, and put it in warm water, not cold, after use so it doesn't crack. The temperatures here are approximate: use them as a guide with the colour.

Tins for hot sugar: line the tin with baking parchment and oil it lightly, and put the tin on a heatproof board or folded tea towel. Never pour hot sugar into a plastic or glass dish, and don't move the tin until it is cold.

Teeth and small children: honeycomb, brittle and hard caramels are hard and can break teeth or choke very young children. Break honeycomb into small pieces and don't give hard sweets to children under 4.

Keeping: wrap caramels individually in baking parchment and keep them in an airtight tin in a cool place for about 2 weeks (general guidance). Honeycomb goes sticky in damp air: store it in an airtight tin with a sachet of silica gel or a dry slice of bread, and eat within about a week.
Level 2 · Dip

Chocolate-dipped honeycomb bark

30 minutes plus 30 minutes setting12 piecescombining hot-sugar sweets with tempered chocolate

A good use of honeycomb: dip pieces in tempered chocolate, or fold them through a layer of chocolate to make crunchy bark. The chocolate protects the honeycomb from damp and keeps it crisp for longer.

Ingredients (12 portions)

  • 1 batch honeycomb pieces (above), broken small
  • 150 g tempered chocolate (Cooking Skills: Chocolate 2, chapter 1)
  • 1 pinch sea salt flakes (optional)
  • 1 tray lined with baking parchment
  1. Temper the chocolate and test a streak. Spread a layer on the tray, about 4 mm thick.
  2. Scatter the honeycomb pieces over and press lightly. Add a pinch of salt.
  3. Leave at cool room temperature for 30 minutes until set, then break into pieces. Store airtight.
Thermometer, teeth and keeping
Thermometer: use a digital probe thermometer, and clean it between uses. Temperatures for chocolate are small differences, so a degree or two matters. The figures in this course are approximate: if the chocolate packet gives its own temperatures, follow them.

Teeth and small children: honeycomb, brittle and hard caramels are hard and can break teeth or choke very young children. Break honeycomb into small pieces and don't give hard sweets to children under 4.

Keeping: wrap caramels individually in baking parchment and keep them in an airtight tin in a cool place for about 2 weeks (general guidance). Honeycomb goes sticky in damp air: store it in an airtight tin with a sachet of silica gel or a dry slice of bread, and eat within about a week.

Allergens: chocolate contains milk (except some dark), and often soy (lecithin) and sometimes nuts or traces of them: check the label and the 'may contain' line. Cream, butter and many coatings are dairy, and cookies and biscuits contain wheat and often egg. Dairy-free dark chocolate and coconut cream can replace the dairy in many recipes, but the texture changes.
Level 3 · Bar

A chewy nut and caramel bar

35 minutes plus 2 hours setting12 barsbinding nuts with a cooked caramel

A chewy bar of toasted nuts and seeds held together with a quick caramel and finished with a layer of dark chocolate. It is like a nougat-style sweet, chewy and nutty. The caramel is cooked only until it bubbles and thickens, not to a hard stage.

Ingredients (12 portions)

  • 100 g light brown sugar
  • 60 g butter
  • 2 tbsp golden syrup or honey
  • 2 tbsp double cream
  • 200 g mixed nuts and seeds, toasted
  • 100 g dark chocolate, melted
  • 1 15 cm square tin, lined with parchment
  1. Heat the sugar, butter, syrup and cream in a heavy pan over a low heat, stirring, until the sugar dissolves. Bubble gently for 2 to 3 minutes, until it looks thick and glossy.
  2. Take off the heat, stir in the nuts and seeds quickly until coated, and press firmly into the lined tin with the back of a spoon.
  3. Cool for 30 minutes, spread with the melted chocolate and chill for 2 hours. Cut into bars with a sharp knife.
Hot sugar, nuts, teeth and keeping
Hot sugar: sugar syrup and caramel are far hotter than boiling water, and they stick to skin and burn badly. Use a large, heavy pan, keep the handle turned in, stand back when adding cream or bicarbonate, and keep a bowl of cold water nearby. Nothing leaves the pan until it has cooled, and children should not help with this chapter's sugar work.

Nuts: almonds, hazelnuts, pistachios and other nuts (and spreads made from them) are serious allergens, and some chocolate is made in factories that handle nuts. Never serve them to a guest without asking, and make a nut-free swap when anyone has an allergy.

Nut-free swap: use only sunflower and pumpkin seeds (check the labels).

Teeth and small children: honeycomb, brittle and hard caramels are hard and can break teeth or choke very young children. Break honeycomb into small pieces and don't give hard sweets to children under 4.

Keeping: wrap caramels individually in baking parchment and keep them in an airtight tin in a cool place for about 2 weeks (general guidance). Honeycomb goes sticky in damp air: store it in an airtight tin with a sachet of silica gel or a dry slice of bread, and eat within about a week.

Experiments

Experiment

Cooking colour

Pale, golden and deep amber.

  1. Make three tiny batches of caramel sauce (sugar and water only), cooked until pale gold, golden and deep amber, and taste a drop of each when cool.

Look for: The pale one is sweet and mild; the golden one is toasty; the deep amber one is bitter and complex. Colour changes in seconds, so watch closely and take care.

Experiment

Cream hot or cold

Warm or cold, with care.

  1. Add warm cream to one small batch of caramel and cold cream to another, off the heat and standing back.

Look for: The warm cream goes in smoothly; the cold cream makes the caramel spit and seize. This is why the cream is warmed first. Take extra care with this test.

Experiment

Setting time

2 hours or overnight.

  1. Cut one batch of caramels after 2 hours and another after a full night.

Look for: After 2 hours they are soft and may smear; after a night they cut cleanly and are chewy. Plan the set.

Experiment

Cutting temperature

Cold, warm and oiled.

  1. Cut caramels with a cold dry knife, a warm one and an oiled one.

Look for: The cold dry knife drags and cracks; the warm or oiled one cuts cleanly. Oil and warmth help.

Tasting notes

What I triedMethod or amountWhat I sawWhat I thoughtWill I do it again?
Salted caramels
Honeycomb
Dipped honeycomb bark
Nut and caramel bar
Cooking colour
Cream hot or cold
Setting time
Cutting temperature

Troubleshooting

ProblemLikely causeWhat to do
Grainy sugarStirred after it dissolved, or crystals on the sidesSwirl, don't stir; brush the sides with water
Burnt, bitter tasteCooked too darkStart again; take it off at amber
Caramel seized when the cream went inCold creamWarm the cream; return to a low heat and stir
Caramel too softNot cooked hot enoughCook to 118 to 122°C next time; chill to firm
Caramel too hardCooked too hotCook to a lower temperature; add a splash of cream
Sticky honeycombDamp airStore airtight and dry; coat with chocolate
Very hot sugar, teeth and allergens
Hot sugar: sugar syrup and caramel are far hotter than boiling water, and they stick to skin and burn badly. Use a large, heavy pan, keep the handle turned in, stand back when adding cream or bicarbonate, and keep a bowl of cold water nearby. Nothing leaves the pan until it has cooled, and children should not help with this chapter's sugar work.

Teeth and small children: honeycomb, brittle and hard caramels are hard and can break teeth or choke very young children. Break honeycomb into small pieces and don't give hard sweets to children under 4.

Allergens: chocolate contains milk (except some dark), and often soy (lecithin) and sometimes nuts or traces of them: check the label and the 'may contain' line. Cream, butter and many coatings are dairy, and cookies and biscuits contain wheat and often egg. Dairy-free dark chocolate and coconut cream can replace the dairy in many recipes, but the texture changes.
Checkpoint: can you do this now?
  • I can cook caramel to a set temperature.
  • I warm the cream and stand back.
  • I can foam honeycomb safely in a big pan.
  • I know children should not help with hot sugar.
  • I can store sugar sweets dry.
Next chapter
Cooking Skills: Chocolate 2, chapter 5 is Mousses and Creams: light chocolate desserts with no raw egg.