Caramels, Honeycomb and Nougat-style Sweets
Cooking Skills: Chocolate 2
Chapter 4 · Caramels, Honeycomb and Nougat-style Sweets
Shopping list for this chapter
The basics
Sugar sweets are made by cooking sugar to a precise temperature: the hotter and the longer it cooks, the harder it sets. Chewy caramel stops at about 118 to 122°C, honeycomb goes on to about 150°C, and a quick nut-bar caramel stops at a gentle bubble. This is the most dangerous chapter in the course: hot sugar is the hottest thing in the kitchen, so the safety boxes matter most here. Children should not help with the sugar work.
The method
- Use a large, heavy pan and a sugar thermometer. A big pan matters for honeycomb, which foams up.
- Have everything ready first: warm cream, oiled tin, sifted bicarbonate, thermometer clipped on.
- Don't stir once the sugar has dissolved: swirl the pan, or brush the sides with water if crystals form.
- Stand back when adding cream or bicarbonate.
- Nothing leaves the pan until it is cold, and leave caramel to set fully before you cut it.
| Sweet | Cooked to (approx.) | Texture | Keeps |
|---|---|---|---|
| Salted caramels | 118 to 122°C | Chewy | About 2 weeks, airtight |
| Honeycomb | About 150°C, then bicarbonate | Light, crisp | About a week, airtight and dry |
| Dipped honeycomb bark | Honeycomb plus tempered chocolate | Crisp | 1 to 2 weeks |
| Nut and caramel bar | A gentle bubble, not a high temperature | Chewy, nutty | About a week |
Temperatures and keeping times are general guidance. Use the thermometer together with the colour.
Honeycomb foams up: when the bicarbonate goes in, the hot sugar rises to three or four times its volume in seconds. Use a large, deep, heavy pan, whisk quickly and stand back, and pour at once. Never lean over the pan, and never touch the foam.
Adding cream: warm the cream first and pour it in slowly, with the pan off the heat and your arm well back. Cold cream makes the sugar spit and seize into a lump; if it does, return it to a low heat and stir until it melts again.
Try it
Salted caramels
A buttery, chewy caramel with a hint of salt. The sugar is cooked to a golden colour, the warm cream goes in carefully, and the mixture is cooked to about 118 to 122°C. The final temperature decides how soft or chewy it is.
Ingredients (25 portions)
- 150 g caster sugar
- 40 g golden syrup
- 150 ml double cream, warmed
- 30 g butter
- 1 tsp sea salt flakes
- 1 15 cm square tin, lined with parchment and lightly oiled
- Warm the cream in a small pan and keep it nearby. Put the sugar and syrup in a large heavy pan over a medium heat, stir until the sugar dissolves, then stop stirring.
- Cook, swirling, until it is a deep golden amber (about 5 to 7 minutes). Take it off the heat and stand back.
- Pour in the warm cream slowly, then the butter, stirring. Return to the heat and cook to 118 to 122°C (about 5 minutes), stirring. Pour into the tin and sprinkle the salt on top.
- Leave for at least 4 hours, then lift out and cut into squares with an oiled knife. Wrap each piece in parchment.
Adding cream: warm the cream first and pour it in slowly, with the pan off the heat and your arm well back. Cold cream makes the sugar spit and seize into a lump; if it does, return it to a low heat and stir until it melts again.
Sugar thermometer: use a thermometer that is rated for hot sugar (up to about 180°C), clip it to the pan without letting it touch the bottom, and put it in warm water, not cold, after use so it doesn't crack. The temperatures here are approximate: use them as a guide with the colour.
Tins for hot sugar: line the tin with baking parchment and oil it lightly, and put the tin on a heatproof board or folded tea towel. Never pour hot sugar into a plastic or glass dish, and don't move the tin until it is cold.
Cutting caramel: leave the set caramel for at least 4 hours or overnight, then cut with a large oiled knife, pressing straight down. A warm knife cuts soft caramel cleanly, and a wet or cold one drags.
Keeping: wrap caramels individually in baking parchment and keep them in an airtight tin in a cool place for about 2 weeks (general guidance). Honeycomb goes sticky in damp air: store it in an airtight tin with a sachet of silica gel or a dry slice of bread, and eat within about a week.
Honeycomb (cinder toffee)
A light, crisp, golden sweet with a bubbly texture. The sugar is cooked to about 150°C, then bicarbonate of soda is whisked in: it releases bubbles that set in the toffee. It foams dramatically, so you need a big pan and a steady nerve.
Ingredients (15 portions)
- 150 g caster sugar
- 60 g golden syrup
- 2 tsp bicarbonate of soda, sifted
- 1 20 cm square tin, lined with parchment and lightly oiled
- Put the sugar and syrup in a large, deep heavy pan over a medium heat and stir until the sugar dissolves. Cook without stirring until it reaches about 150°C and is a deep golden colour (about 6 to 8 minutes).
- Take it off the heat, add the sifted bicarbonate all at once and whisk quickly for 3 seconds. It will foam up. Pour straight into the tin without spreading it.
- Leave to set for 1 hour, untouched, then break into pieces.
Honeycomb foams up: when the bicarbonate goes in, the hot sugar rises to three or four times its volume in seconds. Use a large, deep, heavy pan, whisk quickly and stand back, and pour at once. Never lean over the pan, and never touch the foam.
Sugar thermometer: use a thermometer that is rated for hot sugar (up to about 180°C), clip it to the pan without letting it touch the bottom, and put it in warm water, not cold, after use so it doesn't crack. The temperatures here are approximate: use them as a guide with the colour.
Tins for hot sugar: line the tin with baking parchment and oil it lightly, and put the tin on a heatproof board or folded tea towel. Never pour hot sugar into a plastic or glass dish, and don't move the tin until it is cold.
Teeth and small children: honeycomb, brittle and hard caramels are hard and can break teeth or choke very young children. Break honeycomb into small pieces and don't give hard sweets to children under 4.
Keeping: wrap caramels individually in baking parchment and keep them in an airtight tin in a cool place for about 2 weeks (general guidance). Honeycomb goes sticky in damp air: store it in an airtight tin with a sachet of silica gel or a dry slice of bread, and eat within about a week.
Chocolate-dipped honeycomb bark
A good use of honeycomb: dip pieces in tempered chocolate, or fold them through a layer of chocolate to make crunchy bark. The chocolate protects the honeycomb from damp and keeps it crisp for longer.
Ingredients (12 portions)
- 1 batch honeycomb pieces (above), broken small
- 150 g tempered chocolate (Cooking Skills: Chocolate 2, chapter 1)
- 1 pinch sea salt flakes (optional)
- 1 tray lined with baking parchment
- Temper the chocolate and test a streak. Spread a layer on the tray, about 4 mm thick.
- Scatter the honeycomb pieces over and press lightly. Add a pinch of salt.
- Leave at cool room temperature for 30 minutes until set, then break into pieces. Store airtight.
Teeth and small children: honeycomb, brittle and hard caramels are hard and can break teeth or choke very young children. Break honeycomb into small pieces and don't give hard sweets to children under 4.
Keeping: wrap caramels individually in baking parchment and keep them in an airtight tin in a cool place for about 2 weeks (general guidance). Honeycomb goes sticky in damp air: store it in an airtight tin with a sachet of silica gel or a dry slice of bread, and eat within about a week.
Allergens: chocolate contains milk (except some dark), and often soy (lecithin) and sometimes nuts or traces of them: check the label and the 'may contain' line. Cream, butter and many coatings are dairy, and cookies and biscuits contain wheat and often egg. Dairy-free dark chocolate and coconut cream can replace the dairy in many recipes, but the texture changes.
A chewy nut and caramel bar
A chewy bar of toasted nuts and seeds held together with a quick caramel and finished with a layer of dark chocolate. It is like a nougat-style sweet, chewy and nutty. The caramel is cooked only until it bubbles and thickens, not to a hard stage.
Ingredients (12 portions)
- 100 g light brown sugar
- 60 g butter
- 2 tbsp golden syrup or honey
- 2 tbsp double cream
- 200 g mixed nuts and seeds, toasted
- 100 g dark chocolate, melted
- 1 15 cm square tin, lined with parchment
- Heat the sugar, butter, syrup and cream in a heavy pan over a low heat, stirring, until the sugar dissolves. Bubble gently for 2 to 3 minutes, until it looks thick and glossy.
- Take off the heat, stir in the nuts and seeds quickly until coated, and press firmly into the lined tin with the back of a spoon.
- Cool for 30 minutes, spread with the melted chocolate and chill for 2 hours. Cut into bars with a sharp knife.
Nuts: almonds, hazelnuts, pistachios and other nuts (and spreads made from them) are serious allergens, and some chocolate is made in factories that handle nuts. Never serve them to a guest without asking, and make a nut-free swap when anyone has an allergy.
Nut-free swap: use only sunflower and pumpkin seeds (check the labels).
Teeth and small children: honeycomb, brittle and hard caramels are hard and can break teeth or choke very young children. Break honeycomb into small pieces and don't give hard sweets to children under 4.
Keeping: wrap caramels individually in baking parchment and keep them in an airtight tin in a cool place for about 2 weeks (general guidance). Honeycomb goes sticky in damp air: store it in an airtight tin with a sachet of silica gel or a dry slice of bread, and eat within about a week.
Experiments
Cooking colour
Pale, golden and deep amber.
- Make three tiny batches of caramel sauce (sugar and water only), cooked until pale gold, golden and deep amber, and taste a drop of each when cool.
Look for: The pale one is sweet and mild; the golden one is toasty; the deep amber one is bitter and complex. Colour changes in seconds, so watch closely and take care.
Cream hot or cold
Warm or cold, with care.
- Add warm cream to one small batch of caramel and cold cream to another, off the heat and standing back.
Look for: The warm cream goes in smoothly; the cold cream makes the caramel spit and seize. This is why the cream is warmed first. Take extra care with this test.
Setting time
2 hours or overnight.
- Cut one batch of caramels after 2 hours and another after a full night.
Look for: After 2 hours they are soft and may smear; after a night they cut cleanly and are chewy. Plan the set.
Cutting temperature
Cold, warm and oiled.
- Cut caramels with a cold dry knife, a warm one and an oiled one.
Look for: The cold dry knife drags and cracks; the warm or oiled one cuts cleanly. Oil and warmth help.
Tasting notes
| What I tried | Method or amount | What I saw | What I thought | Will I do it again? |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Salted caramels | ||||
| Honeycomb | ||||
| Dipped honeycomb bark | ||||
| Nut and caramel bar | ||||
| Cooking colour | ||||
| Cream hot or cold | ||||
| Setting time | ||||
| Cutting temperature |
Troubleshooting
| Problem | Likely cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Grainy sugar | Stirred after it dissolved, or crystals on the sides | Swirl, don't stir; brush the sides with water |
| Burnt, bitter taste | Cooked too dark | Start again; take it off at amber |
| Caramel seized when the cream went in | Cold cream | Warm the cream; return to a low heat and stir |
| Caramel too soft | Not cooked hot enough | Cook to 118 to 122°C next time; chill to firm |
| Caramel too hard | Cooked too hot | Cook to a lower temperature; add a splash of cream |
| Sticky honeycomb | Damp air | Store airtight and dry; coat with chocolate |
Teeth and small children: honeycomb, brittle and hard caramels are hard and can break teeth or choke very young children. Break honeycomb into small pieces and don't give hard sweets to children under 4.
Allergens: chocolate contains milk (except some dark), and often soy (lecithin) and sometimes nuts or traces of them: check the label and the 'may contain' line. Cream, butter and many coatings are dairy, and cookies and biscuits contain wheat and often egg. Dairy-free dark chocolate and coconut cream can replace the dairy in many recipes, but the texture changes.
- I can cook caramel to a set temperature.
- I warm the cream and stand back.
- I can foam honeycomb safely in a big pan.
- I know children should not help with hot sugar.
- I can store sugar sweets dry.