Fried Chicken
Cooking Skills: Chicken 2
Chapter 2 · Fried Chicken
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The basics
Fried chicken is a coating of seasoned flour, a hot pan and a lot of patience. A buttermilk soak tenderises the meat and helps the coating stick; a rest after coating lets it hydrate so the crust doesn't fall off; and oil at the right temperature (160 to 175°C) cooks the chicken through while the outside turns golden. Too cool and it goes greasy; too hot and the outside burns before the middle is cooked.
This course teaches shallow-frying in a heavy pan with oil about 3 cm deep (never more than a third full), and oven-frying, which gives a crunchy result with far less oil and no risk of a fat fire. Drain on a rack, not paper, so the underside stays crisp. For the simpler coated fillets see Cooking Skills: Chicken 1, chapter 3 (the schnitzel), and for marinades Cooking Skills: Sauces 2, chapter 7. The usual safety rule is 75°C in the thickest part.
The method
- Soak bone-in pieces in buttermilk and salt in the fridge for 2 to 12 hours.
- Coat in seasoned flour, pressing it on, and rest on a rack for 15 minutes.
- Heat the oil to 165 to 170°C and fry in small batches so the temperature doesn't drop.
- Turn once, fry until deep golden, then check 75°C in the thickest part.
- Rest on a rack for 5 to 10 minutes and serve while crisp.
| Dish | Cut | Method | Time (approximate) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Buttermilk fried chicken | Bone-in thighs, drumsticks | Shallow-fry at 165°C | 12 to 15 minutes per batch |
| Oven-fried chicken | Bone-in or boneless | Bake at 220°C | 30 to 35 minutes |
| Popcorn chicken | Breast cubes | Shallow-fry at 175°C | 3 to 4 minutes |
| Crispy baked wings | Wings | Bake at 220°C | 40 to 45 minutes |
Raw chicken: the safety rules: raw chicken often carries campylobacter and salmonella. Never wash it (the splashes spread bacteria around the kitchen), keep it covered on the bottom shelf of the fridge, use its own board, knife and tongs, wash your hands, boards and tools in hot soapy water afterwards, and never put cooked food back on a plate or board that held raw chicken. Use it by the use-by date, or freeze it on the day you buy it.
Draining and disposing of hot oil: hot oil stays dangerous long after cooking. Leave it to cool completely in the pan, then pour it into a sealable container and put it in the bin (never down the sink). Drain fried chicken on a rack over a tray, not in a pile, so it stays crisp.
Allergens: chicken itself is not a major allergen, but the dishes around it often contain milk, gluten, egg, mustard, celery, soya and sesame. Check stock cubes and sauces, tell guests what is in a dish, and use separate tools for anyone with an allergy.
Try it
Oven-fried crunchy chicken
The safest way to get fried chicken at home: a buttermilk soak, a cornflake and spice coating, and a hot oven on a rack. The crust is crisp and the chicken is juicy. No hot oil and no splashes.
Ingredients (4 portions)
- 8 chicken thighs or drumsticks, skinless or skin-on
- 300 ml buttermilk
- 1 tsp flaked sea salt
- 100 g cornflakes, crushed
- 50 g panko breadcrumbs
- 1 tsp smoked paprika
- 1 tsp garlic powder
- 3 tbsp rapeseed oil
- Soak the chicken in the buttermilk and salt for 2 to 12 hours in the fridge, covered.
- Heat the oven to 220°C (200°C fan, gas 7). Mix the cornflakes, panko, paprika and garlic powder. Lift the chicken from the buttermilk, let the excess drip off, and press it into the crumbs. Lay on a rack over a tray and drizzle with the oil.
- Bake for 30 to 35 minutes until deep golden and the thickest part reads 75°C.
Hot oven and hot trays: ovens, trays and tins are hot enough to burn badly. Use dry oven gloves (a damp cloth conducts heat), pull the shelf out a little before lifting a tray, put hot things on a heatproof surface and keep children away.
Is it cooked? Use a thermometer: chicken is safe when the thickest part reaches 75°C (or 70°C held for 2 minutes), the meat is white all the way through with no pink, and the juices run clear (general guidance, in line with current FSA advice). Push a probe thermometer into the thickest part without touching bone, and for a whole bird check the thickest part of the thigh. If in doubt, cook it longer.
Allergens: contains milk and gluten.
Crispy baked wings
Wings need to lose their skin's moisture to crisp. A coating of salt and a little aluminium-free baking powder dries the skin and helps it blister, so baked wings come out as crisp as fried ones. Toss in a sauce after baking.
Ingredients (4 portions)
- 1 kg chicken wings, tips removed and split at the joint
- 2 tsp aluminium-free baking powder
- 1 tsp flaked sea salt
- 1 tsp smoked paprika
- 2 tbsp runny honey
- 1 tbsp soy sauce
- 1 lemon, juice
- Pat the wings very dry. Toss with the baking powder, salt and paprika. Lay on a rack over a lined tray and chill uncovered for 1 hour if you have time.
- Bake at 220°C (200°C fan, gas 7) for 40 to 45 minutes, turning once, until deep golden, crisp and 75°C.
- Heat the honey, soy sauce and lemon juice in a small pan for 2 minutes and toss the wings in it.
Hot oven and hot trays: ovens, trays and tins are hot enough to burn badly. Use dry oven gloves (a damp cloth conducts heat), pull the shelf out a little before lifting a tray, put hot things on a heatproof surface and keep children away.
Baking powder and wings: a little aluminium-free baking powder dries the skin of baked wings so it crisps. Use only the amount given, because too much tastes bitter and metallic, and check labels if you avoid gluten.
Is it cooked? Use a thermometer: chicken is safe when the thickest part reaches 75°C (or 70°C held for 2 minutes), the meat is white all the way through with no pink, and the juices run clear (general guidance, in line with current FSA advice). Push a probe thermometer into the thickest part without touching bone, and for a whole bird check the thickest part of the thigh. If in doubt, cook it longer.
Popcorn chicken
Bite-sized cubes of breast in spiced flour, fried in hot oil for three or four minutes. They cook fast, so the oil temperature matters: 175°C. Fry small batches so they don't stick together, and drain on a rack.
Ingredients (4 portions)
- 500 g skinless chicken breast, cut into 2 cm cubes
- 100 g plain flour
- 50 g cornflour
- 1 tsp smoked paprika
- 1 tsp garlic powder
- 1 tsp flaked sea salt
- 2 eggs, beaten
- 500 ml rapeseed or sunflower oil, for frying
- Mix the flours, paprika, garlic powder and salt. Dip the cubes in the egg, then toss in the flour mix, pressing it on.
- Heat the oil in a heavy pan (no more than a third full) to 175°C. Fry in 3 or 4 batches for 3 to 4 minutes each until golden.
- Drain on a rack, cut one open to check it is white all through and 75°C, and serve with a dip.
Draining and disposing of hot oil: hot oil stays dangerous long after cooking. Leave it to cool completely in the pan, then pour it into a sealable container and put it in the bin (never down the sink). Drain fried chicken on a rack over a tray, not in a pile, so it stays crisp.
Raw chicken: the safety rules: raw chicken often carries campylobacter and salmonella. Never wash it (the splashes spread bacteria around the kitchen), keep it covered on the bottom shelf of the fridge, use its own board, knife and tongs, wash your hands, boards and tools in hot soapy water afterwards, and never put cooked food back on a plate or board that held raw chicken. Use it by the use-by date, or freeze it on the day you buy it.
Allergens: contains egg and gluten.
Buttermilk fried chicken
The real thing: bone-in thighs and drumsticks soaked in buttermilk, coated in seasoned flour, rested, and shallow-fried in oil at 165°C. The bones make the cooking time long, so fry gently for 12 to 15 minutes a batch, and finish in the oven if in doubt.
Ingredients (4 portions)
- 8 bone-in chicken thighs and drumsticks
- 400 ml buttermilk
- 1 tsp flaked sea salt, for the soak
- 200 g plain flour
- 2 tbsp cornflour
- 2 tsp smoked paprika
- 1 tsp garlic powder
- 1 tsp onion powder
- 1 tsp flaked sea salt, for the flour
- 1 litre rapeseed or sunflower oil, for frying
- Soak the chicken in the buttermilk and salt in the fridge for 4 to 12 hours. Mix the flour, cornflour and spices. Dredge each piece in the flour, press it on, and rest on a rack for 15 minutes.
- Heat the oil in a heavy pan (never more than a third full) to 165°C. Fry 3 or 4 pieces at a time for 12 to 15 minutes, turning once, until deep golden.
- Check 75°C in the thickest part (finish in a 180°C oven for 10 minutes if needed), drain on a rack for 5 minutes and cool the oil before disposing of it.
Raw chicken: the safety rules: raw chicken often carries campylobacter and salmonella. Never wash it (the splashes spread bacteria around the kitchen), keep it covered on the bottom shelf of the fridge, use its own board, knife and tongs, wash your hands, boards and tools in hot soapy water afterwards, and never put cooked food back on a plate or board that held raw chicken. Use it by the use-by date, or freeze it on the day you buy it.
Draining and disposing of hot oil: hot oil stays dangerous long after cooking. Leave it to cool completely in the pan, then pour it into a sealable container and put it in the bin (never down the sink). Drain fried chicken on a rack over a tray, not in a pile, so it stays crisp.
Allergens: contains milk and gluten.
Experiments
Buttermilk or milk soak
Tenderness.
- Soak two pieces, one in buttermilk and one in plain milk with a little lemon juice.
Look for: Buttermilk gives a slightly tangier, more tender meat; milk with lemon juice is a close substitute.
Flour only or flour-egg-crumb
Texture.
- Fry one piece in seasoned flour only and another with the full flour-egg-crumb coating.
Look for: Flour alone is thin and shattering; the full coating is thicker and crunchier.
Oil at 160°C or 190°C
Crust and cooking.
- Fry two pieces, one at 160°C and one at 190°C.
Look for: At 160°C the crust is pale and soft but the inside cooks; at 190°C the crust burns before the middle is done.
Resting on a rack or on paper
Crispness.
- Drain one piece on a rack and another on kitchen paper.
Look for: The rack-drained piece stays crisp underneath; the paper traps steam and makes the underside soft.
Tasting notes
| What I tried | Method or amount | What I saw | What I thought | Will I do it again? |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Oven-fried crunchy chicken | ||||
| Crispy baked wings | ||||
| Popcorn chicken | ||||
| Buttermilk fried chicken | ||||
| Buttermilk or milk soak | ||||
| Flour only or flour-egg-crumb | ||||
| Oil at 160°C or 190°C | ||||
| Resting on a rack or on paper |
Troubleshooting
| Problem | Likely cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Coating falls off | Chicken wet or not rested | Rest after coating; dry the skin |
| Greasy chicken | Oil too cool or pan crowded | Fry in small batches at 165 to 175°C |
| Burnt outside, raw inside | Oil too hot | Lower the heat; finish thick pieces in the oven |
| Soggy crust | Drained on paper or stacked | Rest on a rack |
| Bitter wings | Too much baking powder | Use 2 tsp per kilo |
| Pale baked chicken | Oven too cool | Use 220°C and a rack |
Raw chicken: the safety rules: raw chicken often carries campylobacter and salmonella. Never wash it (the splashes spread bacteria around the kitchen), keep it covered on the bottom shelf of the fridge, use its own board, knife and tongs, wash your hands, boards and tools in hot soapy water afterwards, and never put cooked food back on a plate or board that held raw chicken. Use it by the use-by date, or freeze it on the day you buy it.
Leftover chicken: cool cooked chicken quickly (within about 1 to 2 hours), cover and refrigerate, and eat within 2 days. Reheat only once, until steaming hot all the way through. Never leave chicken on the table for more than 2 hours. Cooked chicken can be frozen for up to about 3 months.
- I can fry chicken in oil at a safe temperature.
- I can coat chicken so the crust sticks.
- I can get a crisp crust in the oven.
- I check chicken is 75°C all through.
- I dispose of hot oil safely.