Curries and Spiced Stews
Cooking Skills: Beef and Steak 2
Chapter 4 · Curries and Spiced Stews
Skill goal
Layer spices into slow-cooked beef without burning them.
Shopping list for this chapter
The basics
Spices turn slow-cooked beef into a whole new range of dishes. The skill is in the order: whole spices first in hot oil, then the onion base, then ground spices for a minute, then the beef and liquid, and finally acid and fresh herbs to lift the dish at the end. Spices burn easily, so keep the heat moderate and add liquid at the first sign of sticking. For vegetable curries and stews, see Cooking Skills: Vegetables 2, chapter 2.
The method
- Fry whole spices briefly, then cook the onions until golden: that is the flavour base.
- Fry ground spices for about a minute and no longer, adding water if they stick.
- Brown the beef in batches, then simmer very gently until tender.
- Reduce at the end if the sauce is thin, stirring so it doesn't catch.
- Finish with acid and fresh herbs, then taste for salt.
| Dish | Main spice | Heat | Time (approximate) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mild beef curry | Curry powder | Mild | 1½ to 2 hours |
| Goulash | Sweet paprika | None | 2 to 2½ hours |
| Spice paste | Coriander, cumin, turmeric | Mild | 30 minutes, then freeze |
| Rendang-style | Spice paste, lemongrass | Mild to medium | 2½ to 3 hours |
Spices, hot pots and allergens
Burning spices: ground spices burn in seconds in a hot pan and taste bitter. Lower the heat before adding them, stir constantly, and add a splash of water or stock as soon as they smell toasty.Chilli and spices: chilli can sting skin and eyes, so wash your hands well after chopping it and don't touch your face. Add heat in small steps, and keep portions for children mild.
Hot pot and hot steam: a heavy casserole dish or pan of hot liquid is heavy and scalding. Use oven gloves, lift the lid away from your face so the steam doesn't burn you, keep the handles turned in and never carry a full pot across a busy kitchen.
Try it
Level 1 · Start here
A mild beef curry
A family curry that is spiced but not hot. The curry powder is fried briefly so it loses its raw taste, and the beef then simmers gently until tender. For the idea of flavour bases, see Cooking Skills: Vegetables 2, chapter 1.
Ingredients (4 portions)
- 700 g chuck or braising steak, in 3 cm cubes
- 2 tbsp sunflower or rapeseed oil
- 2 onions, finely chopped
- 3 garlic cloves, crushed
- 1 tbsp fresh ginger, grated
- 1 tbsp mild curry powder
- 1 tbsp tomato purée
- 400 g tin of chopped tomatoes
- 300 ml beef stock (low-salt) or water
- 2 tbsp plain yogurt or coconut milk, to finish
- Brown the beef in half the oil in a heavy pan, in batches, and set it aside. Cook the onions in the rest of the oil for 8 to 10 minutes until golden, adding the garlic and ginger for the last minute.
- Stir in the curry powder and cook for 1 minute, then the purée, tomatoes and stock. Return the beef, cover and simmer very gently for 1½ to 2 hours, until the beef is tender.
- Stir in the yogurt or coconut milk and taste. Serve with rice and flatbreads.
Burning spices, hot pot and allergens
Burning spices: ground spices burn in seconds in a hot pan and taste bitter. Lower the heat before adding them, stir constantly, and add a splash of water or stock as soon as they smell toasty.Hot pot and hot steam: a heavy casserole dish or pan of hot liquid is heavy and scalding. Use oven gloves, lift the lid away from your face so the steam doesn't burn you, keep the handles turned in and never carry a full pot across a busy kitchen.
Tough cuts take time: braising beef is done when it is tender, not when a timer rings. If a fork doesn't slide in easily, it needs longer. Simmering gently is better than boiling hard, which toughens the meat.
Allergens: beef itself is not a common allergen, but stock cubes and gravy granules often contain celery, gluten or soy, and sauces may contain milk (butter, cream) and mustard. Check every label, and swap in plant butter or gluten-free flour where needed.
Level 2 · Paprika
A Hungarian-style goulash
A rich stew of beef, a lot of onions and sweet paprika. The paprika must go in off the heat and for only a few seconds, because it burns very easily and turns bitter. Serve with potatoes, noodles or bread.
Ingredients (5 portions)
- 800 g chuck, in 3 cm cubes
- 2 tbsp sunflower or rapeseed oil
- 2 onions, chopped
- 2 garlic cloves, crushed
- 2 tbsp sweet paprika
- 1 tsp caraway seeds (optional)
- 1 red pepper, diced
- 2 tbsp tomato purée
- 400 g tin of chopped tomatoes
- 400 ml beef stock (low-salt)
- 4 tbsp soured cream, to serve
- Brown the beef in batches in half the oil and set it aside. Cook the onions in the rest of the oil for 10 minutes until soft and golden, adding the garlic and caraway seeds for the last minute.
- Take the pan off the heat, stir in the paprika for 20 seconds, then straight away add the purée, tomatoes, stock and pepper, scraping the base. Return the beef.
- Cover and simmer gently for 2 to 2½ hours, until tender. Serve with a spoonful of soured cream.
Burning paprika, hot pot and allergens
Burning spices: ground spices burn in seconds in a hot pan and taste bitter. Lower the heat before adding them, stir constantly, and add a splash of water or stock as soon as they smell toasty.Hot pot and hot steam: a heavy casserole dish or pan of hot liquid is heavy and scalding. Use oven gloves, lift the lid away from your face so the steam doesn't burn you, keep the handles turned in and never carry a full pot across a busy kitchen.
Tough cuts take time: braising beef is done when it is tender, not when a timer rings. If a fork doesn't slide in easily, it needs longer. Simmering gently is better than boiling hard, which toughens the meat.
Milk: soured cream is dairy. Use a dairy-free alternative if needed.
Level 2 · Make ahead
A make-ahead spice paste
A cooked spice paste of onion, garlic, ginger and ground spices that you can keep in the freezer. A cube or two turns beef into a curry in minutes. Frying the paste properly (until it loses its raw smell and the oil separates) is the important step.
Ingredients (8 portions)
- 3 onions, roughly chopped
- 6 garlic cloves
- 5 cm fresh ginger, peeled and chopped
- 2 tbsp ground coriander
- 2 tbsp ground cumin
- 1 tbsp ground turmeric
- 1 tsp smoked paprika
- 4 tbsp sunflower or rapeseed oil
- 1 tsp flaked sea salt
- Blend the onions, garlic and ginger to a rough paste with a splash of water. Heat the oil in a wide pan over a medium heat, add the paste and fry for 10 to 12 minutes, stirring, until golden and dry.
- Add the coriander, cumin, turmeric, paprika and salt and fry for 2 minutes, adding a splash of water if it starts to stick. Let it cool.
- Spoon into ice cube trays or small tubs, cover and freeze. Once frozen, tip into a bag and use one or two cubes per portion.
Burning spices, hot oil and keeping
Burning spices: ground spices burn in seconds in a hot pan and taste bitter. Lower the heat before adding them, stir constantly, and add a splash of water or stock as soon as they smell toasty.Hot pan and hot oil: stir-frying uses very high heat and spitting oil. Dry the beef and vegetables first, keep everything ready before you start, use a long spoon and keep children away from the hob.
Keeping spice paste: cool it quickly, keep it in a covered jar in the fridge for up to about 3 days, or freeze it in small portions for up to about 3 months (general guidance). Don't leave a paste with garlic in oil at room temperature.
Level 3 · Dry curry
A beef rendang-style curry
A rendang is cooked slowly in coconut milk until the liquid reduces, the sauce turns dark and thick, and the beef starts to fry in its own oil. This version uses your spice paste and is mild; add more chilli at the end, if you want more heat.
Ingredients (5 portions)
- 800 g chuck or shin, in 4 cm cubes
- 4 cubes of spice paste (above)
- 400 ml tin of coconut milk
- 2 stalks of lemongrass, bruised
- 1 tsp mild chilli flakes (to taste)
- 2 tbsp lime juice
- 1 tbsp brown sugar
- 200 ml water
- 1 pinch flaked sea salt
- Put the beef, spice paste, coconut milk, lemongrass, chilli flakes and water in a wide heavy pan and bring to a simmer. Cook gently, uncovered, for 1½ to 2 hours, stirring occasionally, until the beef is tender and the sauce has reduced by about half.
- Turn up the heat slightly and cook, stirring often, for 30 to 40 minutes until the sauce is thick, dark and clinging to the meat and the oil starts to separate. Don't let it catch on the base.
- Stir in the lime juice and sugar, taste and season. Remove the lemongrass and serve with rice.
Catching sauce, hot pot and coconut
Chilli and spices: chilli can sting skin and eyes, so wash your hands well after chopping it and don't touch your face. Add heat in small steps, and keep portions for children mild.Hot pot and hot steam: a heavy casserole dish or pan of hot liquid is heavy and scalding. Use oven gloves, lift the lid away from your face so the steam doesn't burn you, keep the handles turned in and never carry a full pot across a busy kitchen.
Coconut milk: once a tin is opened, keep the rest covered in the fridge and use it within a few days. Coconut is not usually a problem for people with nut allergies, but ask anyone who has one before you serve it, and check the label.
Tough cuts take time: braising beef is done when it is tender, not when a timer rings. If a fork doesn't slide in easily, it needs longer. Simmering gently is better than boiling hard, which toughens the meat.
Experiments
Experiment
Frying the spices
Raw and fried.
- Make two small curries, adding the curry powder to the liquid in one and frying it in the oil first in the other.
Look for: The fried spices give a rounder, deeper, less raw flavour. Frying is worth the extra minute.
Experiment
Whole or ground
Cumin seeds against ground cumin.
- Fry whole cumin seeds for 30 seconds in one pan, and use the same amount of ground cumin in another.
Look for: Whole seeds give a nutty, aromatic note and a little crunch; ground cumin is smoother and blends in. Both are good.
Experiment
Simmering time
1½ and 2½ hours.
- Take a spoonful of the curry at 1½ hours and again at 2½ hours and compare the meat and the sauce.
Look for: At 1½ hours the beef is just tender; by 2½ it falls apart and the sauce is richer. Tough cuts reward patience.
Experiment
Heat level
Mild and hot.
- Split a batch of curry in two and add a pinch of chilli flakes to one, tasting both.
Look for: A little chilli lifts the flavour without making it hot; more takes over. Add it in small steps, as you cannot take it out.
Tasting notes
| What I tried | Method or amount | What I saw | What I thought | Will I do it again? |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mild beef curry | ||||
| Goulash | ||||
| Spice paste | ||||
| Rendang-style curry | ||||
| Frying the spices | ||||
| Whole or ground | ||||
| Simmering time | ||||
| Heat level |
Troubleshooting
| Problem | Likely cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Bitter curry | Burnt spices or paprika | Lower the heat, add liquid sooner and start again if it is very burnt |
| Raw, chalky spice taste | Spices not fried | Fry ground spices for a minute in the oil |
| Thin sauce | Too much liquid | Simmer uncovered, stirring, until it thickens |
| Sauce catches on the pan | Heat too high or not enough stirring | Lower the heat, add a splash of water and stir |
| Tough beef | Not cooked long enough | Keep simmering gently until it is tender |
| Too hot | Too much chilli | Add yogurt, coconut milk or more tomatoes and serve with rice |
Hot pots, spices and leftovers
Hot pot and hot steam: a heavy casserole dish or pan of hot liquid is heavy and scalding. Use oven gloves, lift the lid away from your face so the steam doesn't burn you, keep the handles turned in and never carry a full pot across a busy kitchen.Chilli and spices: chilli can sting skin and eyes, so wash your hands well after chopping it and don't touch your face. Add heat in small steps, and keep portions for children mild.
Slow-cooked leftovers: take leftovers out of the cooker and divide them into shallow containers within about 1 to 2 hours, cool, then chill and eat within about 2 days (or freeze for up to about 3 months), and reheat in a pan or the oven until steaming hot, not in the slow cooker.
Checkpoint: can you do this now?
- I can fry spices in the right order without burning them.
- I can brown beef and simmer a curry until tender.
- I can make and freeze a spice paste.
- I can reduce a sauce until it clings to the beef.
- I can adjust the heat of a curry safely.
Next chapter
Cooking Skills: Beef and Steak 2, chapter 5 is Beef Around the World: stroganoff, bulgogi, a Flemish-style stew and shredded beef tacos.