Seawater

Oceanography Fundamentals

Course 1 · Chapter 3 · Seawater: Salt, Heat, Density, Light and Sound

The Challenger expedition of the 1870s brought back hundreds of bottled water samples from every ocean. The chemist William Dittmar analysed them in Britain and found something surprising: the amount of salt varied from place to place, but the proportions of the main ingredients hardly varied at all (check). Whether the water came from the Atlantic or the Pacific, chloride was always in the same ratio to sodium, and sodium to magnesium. That result, now called the principle of constant proportions, makes it possible to measure the saltiness of seawater by measuring just one thing. This chapter looks at what seawater contains, how temperature and salt together set its density, why the ocean is layered, and how light and sound behave in it.

What Is in the Water?

Seawater is, on average, about 3.5 per cent dissolved salts by mass, or roughly 35 grams per kilogram (check). Oceanographers call this the salinity. The salt comes from the weathering of rocks on land, carried to the sea by rivers, and from volcanic and hydrothermal activity on the seafloor.

IonShare of the dissolved salt, approximately
Chloride55 per cent
Sodium31 per cent
Sulphate8 per cent
Magnesium4 per cent
Calcium and potassiumabout 1 per cent each

Table salt, sodium chloride, is therefore the biggest part but not all of it (check the percentages). Trace elements, dissolved gases (oxygen, carbon dioxide) and nutrients such as nitrate and phosphate are present in tiny amounts, but they matter greatly for life (Chapter 9).

Where it is saltier

In hot, dry subtropical regions, where evaporation exceeds rainfall. The Red Sea is among the saltiest open seas, at about 40 grams per kilogram (check).

Where it is fresher

Near river mouths, near melting ice and where rain is heavy, such as the tropical belt. The Baltic Sea is brackish, at only a few grams per kilogram in places (check).

Why the open ocean varies little

The open-ocean range is only about 33 to 37 grams per kilogram. The ocean is so large and well mixed that local differences are small.

Temperature

Sea-surface temperature runs from about minus 2 degrees Celsius near the poles to around 30 degrees in the warmest tropical seas (check). Most of the deep ocean, below about a kilometre, is a few degrees above freezing, whatever the latitude.

Seawater does not freeze at 0 degrees. Salt lowers the freezing point to about minus 1.9 degrees at normal salinity (check). When sea ice forms, most of the salt is pushed out into the water below, which makes that water saltier, colder and denser. This detail drives the deep circulation described in Chapter 7.

The ocean as a heat store Water has an unusually high specific heat: it takes about four times as much energy to warm a kilogram of water by one degree as it does a kilogram of air (check). Together with its great mass, this means the top few metres of the ocean hold as much heat as the whole atmosphere above (check the figure). The sea therefore warms slowly in spring, cools slowly in autumn and keeps coastal climates mild. It is also why the ocean is central to climate change (Chapter 8).

Density and the Layered Ocean

Seawater has a density of about 1,025 kilograms per cubic metre, a little more than fresh water. Two things control it:

  • Temperature. Colder water is denser.
  • Salinity. Saltier water is denser.
  • Pressure also compresses water slightly at great depth.

Dense water sinks beneath lighter water, so the ocean arranges itself in stable layers.

Layer or featureWhereWhat changes sharply
Mixed layerThe top tens to a couple of hundred metresStirred by wind and waves, so temperature and salinity are nearly uniform
ThermoclineBelow the mixed layer, to about 1,000 mTemperature falls rapidly with depth
HaloclineWhere salinity changes rapidlySalinity changes with depth
PycnoclineOften coincides with the aboveDensity increases rapidly with depth, making a barrier to mixing
Deep waterBelow the thermoclineCold, dense and little changed
Why the layers matter A strong pycnocline works like a lid. It stops warm surface water mixing with cold nutrient-rich water below, which is why parts of the tropical ocean are clear, blue and nearly lifeless, while places where deep water is brought up to the surface (Chapter 6) are green and full of fish. In the North Sea and around Scotland, the summer thermocline forms in spring and is broken up by autumn gales (check).

Light in the Sea

Water absorbs light, and it absorbs different colours at different rates. Red goes first, within the top ten metres or so; orange and yellow follow; blue and green penetrate deepest. This is why the open ocean looks blue, and why a diver's red equipment looks dull and grey at depth (check the depths). The lit layer where photosynthesis is possible, the euphotic zone, reaches about 200 metres in the clearest water but only a few tens of metres in murky coastal water, where sediment and plankton scatter and absorb the light.

Sound in the Sea

Where light fails, sound carries. Sound travels at about 1,500 metres per second in seawater, about four to five times faster than in air (check). Speed rises with temperature, salinity and pressure, so it changes with depth: it falls through the warm upper layers, reaches a minimum at around a kilometre down, and then rises again with pressure (check). Sound waves bend toward the speed minimum and can become trapped in a channel there, a feature known as the SOFAR channel. Whales are thought to use such channels for long-distance calls, and the navy and scientists use them for listening and monitoring (check).

Watch the units Older books give salinity in parts per thousand, newer ones in practical salinity units (which are unitless) or in grams per kilogram. For ordinary purposes the numbers are close enough: 35 means about 35 grams of salt per kilogram of seawater. Check which scale a source uses before comparing figures.

Exercises

Exercise 1

A kilogram of seawater has a salinity of 35 g/kg. How many grams of salt, and of chloride in particular (about 55 per cent of the salt), does it contain? How much salt remains if 1 kg of it is evaporated to dryness, ignoring losses?

Exercise 2

Two water samples: A is warm (25 degrees) with salinity 36; B is cold (5 degrees) with salinity 34. Which is denser, and what happens if A is poured gently onto B? Explain which factor wins.

Exercise 3

A diver in clear tropical water holds a bright red object. Describe what colour it appears at 1 m, at 20 m and at 100 m, and explain why, using what you know about light absorption.

Quick Reference

  • Salinity: about 35 g of dissolved salt per kg; open ocean range about 33 to 37
  • Constant proportions: the main ions are always in the same ratio, so one measurement gives the salinity
  • Freezing point: about minus 1.9 degrees; sea ice rejects salt
  • Density: about 1,025 kg/m3; colder and saltier means denser
  • Layers: mixed layer, thermocline, halocline, pycnocline, deep water
  • Light: red absorbed first, blue and green deepest; euphotic zone up to about 200 m
  • Sound: about 1,500 m/s; trapped in a deep channel
  • Check: ion percentages, heat-store comparison, sound-speed profile
Coming next Chapter 4 moves to the surface, where wind raises waves: how they are made, how they travel as swell, why they break on a beach, and what makes a tsunami different.