Starting Out

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Course 1 ยท Chapter 1 ยท Starting Out: Light, Space and the Year

Growing your own vegetables needs less than most people think: a few hours of sun, some soil or a big pot, and a rough idea of the calendar. This chapter covers what to grow first, how much light and space plants need, whether to use a plot or containers, and how the gardening year runs in a cool, northern climate. Later chapters cover soil, compost, sowing, planting out, watering, pests, easy crops and planning a full season.

What Do You Want to Grow?

Start with vegetables you actually eat. A crop you do not like is wasted effort, however easy it is. Some crops are also much more forgiving than others, so a first year goes better if most of what you grow comes from the easy end of the list.

CropDifficultyWhy
RadishesVery easyReady in a few weeks from seed
Salad leavesVery easyCan be cut repeatedly; grow in a pot
PotatoesEasyTolerate poor soil; can be grown in a bag
Runner and French beansEasyLarge seeds, heavy crops
CourgettesEasyA single plant gives a lot of fruit
CarrotsModerateNeed loose, stone-free soil
TomatoesModerateNeed warmth and regular feeding; blight risk
CauliflowerHarderFussy about water and spacing
Pick three, not twelve A beginner who sows a dozen crops usually neglects most of them. Choose three or four, look after them well, and add more next year. (This is advice from general practice, not a rule.)

Light, Space and Shelter

Light is the one thing you cannot add later. Most vegetables want direct sun for much of the day: the figure usually quoted for fruiting crops such as tomatoes, beans and courgettes is at least six hours (check). Leafy crops and some roots cope better with part shade.

Sun

Watch the site for a day. Note which parts are sunny in the morning, at midday and in the afternoon, and when trees or walls cast shade.

Shelter

Strong wind damages tall plants and dries soil. A fence, hedge or wall that filters the wind helps, but avoid solid shade.

Water

Put the plot within reach of a tap or water butt. A bed you must carry cans to is a bed you will neglect in a dry spell.

Access

Beds should be narrow enough to reach the middle from the edge without stepping on the soil.

Sun changes with the season A spot that is sunny in June may be in shade in March or October, because the sun sits lower in the sky in winter. Judge a site in the season you will be growing in. In the northern hemisphere a south-facing site gets the most sun (check).

Plot or Containers

You do not need a garden. Many crops grow well in containers on a patio, balcony or even a sunny windowsill, with the trade-off that pots dry out quickly and need more frequent watering and feeding.

OptionGood forDrawback
Open groundPotatoes, beans, courgettes, brassicasSoil may be poor or weedy at first
Raised bedAlmost anything; good drainage, easy accessCost of timber and soil to fill it
Large pots and bagsPotatoes, tomatoes, salad, herbsDry out fast; need regular feeding
WindowsillHerbs, cress, microgreens, seedlingsSmall harvests only

The Gardening Year

In a cool, northern climate such as Scotland the growing season is shorter than in the south, and the last spring frost decides when tender plants can go outside. Dates vary by place and by year, so the table gives only a rough pattern (check against local advice).

SeasonMain jobs
WinterPlan, order seed, tidy tools, dig or mulch beds if the soil is workable
Early springSow tender crops indoors; chit early potatoes; sow hardy crops under cover
Late springSow outdoors, harden off seedlings, plant out after the last frost
SummerWater, weed, feed, harvest, and sow quick crops again
AutumnClear spent crops, lift roots, add compost, sow green manures
# a first-year notebook, one line per crop crop sown planted out first harvest radish April (in place) May potato April (in place) July beans May (indoors) June August
Keep a notebook Writing down what you sowed, when, and how it did turns each year into data for the next. The dates above are my own illustration of the layout, not recommended dates for any place.

Tools and Costs

A small kit is enough: a spade or fork, a hand trowel, a watering can with a rose, a rake, and a pair of secateurs or scissors. Seeds, compost and a few pots come on top of that. Costs vary by shop, so none are quoted here.

Not Yet Verified, and Sources

  • Source. This chapter is written from general knowledge of vegetable growing; I did not read a specific source while writing it. Nothing here is quoted from a text.
  • Marked (check). The six-hour sunlight figure, the south-facing advice and the seasonal pattern for a cool climate. Check these against local advice, such as a local allotment society or a regional growing guide.
  • Illustrations. The notebook dates are invented to show the layout.

Exercises

Exercise 1

List five vegetables you actually like to eat. Using the difficulty table, mark which are easy, and pick your first three crops with a one-line reason for each.

Exercise 2

Survey a possible growing spot (a garden corner, balcony or windowsill) at three times of day. Record how much direct sun it gets, what shades it, how sheltered it is and how far it is from water, then say whether it suits a fruiting crop.

Exercise 3

Draw up a first-year notebook table like the one in the chapter for your three crops, with sowing, planting-out and first-harvest columns. Then decide whether you would use open ground, a raised bed or containers, and give two reasons.

Quick Reference

  • Start with: three or four crops you like to eat
  • Easy first crops: radishes, salad leaves, potatoes, beans, courgettes
  • Light: about six hours of sun for fruiting crops (check)
  • Site checks: sun, shelter, water, access
  • Options: open ground, raised bed, large pots, windowsill
  • Year: plan in winter, sow in spring, tend in summer, clear in autumn
Coming next Chapter 2 looks at soil: what it is made of, how to tell what you have, and how acidity and organic matter affect what grows.