Beyond France
The Michelin Guide
Course 1 · Chapter 6 · Beyond France
The guide began as a French motorist's handbook, but today most of its editions cover other countries. This chapter follows its spread: the early foreign editions, the return to Britain in the 1970s, the big moves to the United States and Asia from 2005, and the question each new country asks, which is whether a French-born system can judge another country's food fairly. Dates and figures are from general knowledge and flagged "check". No current restaurant is recommended and no current star list is given.
The Early Spread
Neighbours first
The guide followed the tyre company's markets. Editions for Belgium and for neighbouring countries appeared in the early 20th century, and a Spanish and Portuguese edition came later (check). Like the French guide of 1900 (Chapter 2), these were aimed at motorists.
A British guide, then a gap
A guide for the British Isles was published around 1911, and the company had a factory in Stoke-on-Trent from 1927 (check). The postwar and modern series began later, with a Great Britain and Ireland guide in 1974 (check).
Europe-wide guides
An Italian guide was published in 1956 and a "Main Cities of Europe" guide in 1981 (check). By the later 20th century Michelin covered most of western Europe with a standard method (Chapter 3).
The Big Moves: New York, Tokyo, Hong Kong
| Edition (check each) | Note |
|---|---|
| New York City, 2005 | The first American guide, followed by San Francisco and other cities. It was seen as a test of whether the guide could succeed outside Europe, and French-style restaurants were prominent in the first lists. |
| Tokyo, 2007 (published for 2008) | The first Asian guide. Tokyo was soon reported to have more starred restaurants than any other city, which surprised many in France and prompted discussion of the guide's standards (check). |
| Hong Kong and Macau, 2008 | The guide's first Chinese edition. Later editions covered mainland cities, Singapore, Bangkok and other places in Asia (check). |
| Later guides | Many countries and regions have been added, often supported by tourist boards or other partners (Chapter 8). |
Each launch tends to follow a pattern: a press event, a list of stars, praise from some local chefs and complaints from others about the inspectors' knowledge of the local cuisine. In Asia, inclusion of inexpensive street-food and noodle stalls, among them hawker stalls in Singapore, drew wide attention (check). That shows the guide adapting, because it rates the food rather than the setting, at least in principle (Chapter 7).
Questions Each Country Asks
- Local or foreign inspectors? The guide says its inspectors are trained by the company and work in teams, and in many places the teams include locals, but critics sometimes ask whether outsiders understand a cuisine (check).
- Which cuisines are favoured? Studies and press discussion have asked whether French techniques and formal service are rewarded more than other styles, and whether that has narrowed fine dining worldwide (Chapter 5, Chapter 8).
- Is it commercial? A new guide brings visitors and publicity, and in some places a local tourist body has helped to fund it. Critics ask whether that influences what is listed (Chapter 8).
- Who else rates? Local guides, newspapers, online reviews and lists such as the "World's 50 Best" compete with the red guide, and often disagree with it (check).
Britain and Scotland
- Early British stars. The Roux brothers' Le Gavroche gained Britain's first three stars in 1982 (Chapter 4, check). Through the 1980s and 1990s the number of British starred restaurants grew, and chefs trained in the Roux kitchens opened their own.
- Scotland. Scottish restaurants have been in the Great Britain and Ireland guide for decades. Edinburgh's first starred restaurant in the modern period is usually dated to around 2001, and a chef at a hotel in Perthshire held two stars for many years until his death in 2019 (check). Beyond those points I have not listed particular restaurants, because star lists change each year.
- The Scottish food story. Produce such as langoustines, beef, game, salmon and soft fruit is often cited when Scottish cooking is praised, though one should treat claims of national "greatness" with the same caution as claims about Lyon (Chapter 4).
- The rivals. The Good Food Guide (British, started in 1951) and newspaper critics offered other views, and still do (check).
Exercises
Draw a timeline of the guide's spread, from the first foreign edition to the Asian editions, marking which dates need checking.
Choose a cuisine you know and list three difficulties a French-trained inspector might have in judging it, and one way the guide could address each.
Compare the Michelin guide with one other British guide or critic on the same question: what are they each trying to tell the reader?
Quick Reference
- Early: neighbours, a British guide c.1911, Italy 1956, Great Britain and Ireland 1974 (check)
- Big moves: New York 2005, Tokyo 2007, Hong Kong and Macau 2008 (check)
- Questions: local knowledge, cuisine bias, commercial partners, rival guides
- Scotland: in the guide for decades; do not rely on star lists, which change yearly